Jabberjaw

J&k_Overland

Active Member
I’ve always soldered those larger connections. Heat up the connectors with a butane torch and fill it with solder then jam the cable in.
 
I’ve always soldered those larger connections. Heat up the connectors with a butane torch and fill it with solder then jam the cable in.
That. Or squish it in a vice. Soldering is better.

Cart looks fine. I don’t like the bus bar for the positive side bc it’s uncovered and would personally do a power distribution block with a fuse panel. But yes it’ll work fine.
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
That. Or squish it in a vice. Soldering is better.

Cart looks fine. I don’t like the bus bar for the positive side bc it’s uncovered and would personally do a power distribution block with a fuse panel. But yes it’ll work fine.
I appreciate that. The problem is that I haven’t seen a small distribution block with fuses that can handle the 2 - 40 amp loads. At least it doesn’t look like any of the blue sea stuff would do it.

As for having it covered, what about something like this?

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wjtstudios

Hooked
Ok electrical experts, would this shopping list work fine to pull one power line about 20 feet to the back corner of the Gladiator? That line will be protected by the Bussman 90 within one foot of the battery. Then the ground and the power line will tie into separate two post bars in the “ammo box” where the compressor is mounted. The compressor harness will connect to power and ground there, with the separate compressor power lines having their own 40 amp inline fuses on 8 gauge wire (less than a foot or so in length).

View attachment 365423 View attachment 365424
I had a 120 amp breaker under the hood at the battery and the load of the compressor running and the frig running would trip it when the breaker warmed up. If I kept the hood open, it would not trip. The 200 amp has not tripped yet hood open or closed.
 
I like it better then the uncovered one for sure, just stops a potential problem. Also what bill said that circuit breaker is there to protect the wire not what you put on it down line so get a amp rating that matches your wire. I ran a 150 circuit breaker on my last setup I don’t think my engine bay gets as hot as his. Think of it same as house wiring if you run 20 amp outlets and 12 gauge wiring you wouldn’t put a 15 amp breaker on it, you would put a 20 amp breaker on it.

As for the blue sea stuff, I dunno what your end plans are and how many circuits you’re planning back there. But since you’re hooking up a fused circuit to it anyways you can hook directly to the terminal stud for that load instead of running it through a fuse on the panel I love their products but I have found their stuff doesn’t like the thicker gauge wires though. It’s difficult to get a 0/2 gauge to attach to them, just not made for it.
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
My fridge is already directly and separately wired to the back, and I have the separately wired OEM 110 volt in the back too.

The only thing I’m running off these wires is the ARB Twin (although I suppose I might do another standard 12 volt plug at some point, but nothing major).
 

CalSgt

Hooked
I wouldn't call myself an electrical expert, but I'd do that.

Also, if you don't already have a way to crimp the cable (2 gauge is huge), one of these little tools is good to have; you just smack it with a hammer:

View attachment 365425
That tool looks handy but I just use a 3/16" punch and hammer to crimp then solder using a propane torch... best of both worlds
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
Decided to work on some bed lights (since the decked system covers them). I’m still waiting for the second light to show up. Ultimately, I may end also putting two in the front corners of the bed.

Got the holes drilled (and then painted) for the light and wiring, just need to hook up the wires to the wires from the factory bed lights.
 

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CalSgt

Hooked
Decided to work on some bed lights (since the decked system covers them). I’m still waiting for the second light to show up. Ultimately, I may end also putting two in the front corners of the bed.

Got the holes drilled (and then painted) for the light and wiring, just need to hook up the wires to the wires from the factory bed lights.
Those KC Cyclone lights are ridiculously bright, should be rad when done
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
Finally received the other cyclone yesterday. Got it installed today. I’ll take pics tonight so everyone can see the spread. I’m pretty sure I’ll end up mounting two on the cab side of the bed but I’m not positive yet. They are pretty damn bright and I don’t really want to be staring at them while I get stuff out of the bed.
 

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OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Finally received the other cyclone yesterday. Got it installed today. I’ll take pics tonight so everyone can see the spread. I’m pretty sure I’ll end up mounting two on the cab side of the bed but I’m not positive yet. They are pretty damn bright and I don’t really want to be staring at them while I get stuff out of the bed.
Nice garage.
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
Night shots. I also finally received and installed a dead pedal. Can’t believe Jeeps don’t come with them.
 

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Sharkey

Word Ninja
Dang those look good. How’s the glare off the back window with the tailgate down?
Not bothersome at all. But I’m thinking two in the front firing back might be overkill and too much direct light.

And the lights are not on the gate so it doesn’t matter whether the gate is up or down (but maybe I’m not understanding your question).
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Not bothersome at all. But I’m thinking two in the front firing back might be overkill and too much direct light.

And the lights are not on the gate so it doesn’t matter whether the gate is up or down (but maybe I’m not understanding your question).
Yeah no, not so much to do with the gate being up or down, more so to do with you standing at the gate when it’s down getting something from the drawer or the bed.
 
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