PSC Hydraulic assist chatter

[tkettle]

I am running a Currie rock jock d60 front with the PSC Hydraulic assist. I have RK drag link and Currie tie rod. When stopped or at slow speeds, I get a tremendous chatter from metal to metal "rubbing" together when turning the wheels left...? The tie rod has a LOT of roll which allows the PSC cylinder to fall onto it, and at times, the bolt on the cylinder will run along the bottom of the drag link. Curious if anyone out there has had any experience with this or might be able to recommend a simple fix...?

 

[Ddays]

I am running a Currie rock jock d60 front with the PSC Hydraulic assist. I have RK drag link and Currie tie rod. When stopped or at slow speeds, I get a tremendous chatter from metal to metal "rubbing" together when turning the wheels left...? The tie rod has a LOT of roll which allows the PSC cylinder to fall onto it, and at times, the bolt on the cylinder will run along the bottom of the drag link. Curious if anyone out there has had any experience with this or might be able to recommend a simple fix...?

Get yourself a set of the anti flop washers. They keep the tie rod from rotating. These replace those shitty spring clamps that fall off the damn boot all the time anyways.
My PSC is getting installed this weekend so I grabbed a pair of these ahead of time...

Edit - I have the Synergy tie rod. Anyone know if the Currie similar/same?

 

[jeeeep]

I am running a Currie rock jock d60 front with the PSC Hydraulic assist. I have RK drag link and Currie tie rod. When stopped or at slow speeds, I get a tremendous chatter from metal to metal "rubbing" together when turning the wheels left...? The tie rod has a LOT of roll which allows the PSC cylinder to fall onto it, and at times, the bolt on the cylinder will run along the bottom of the drag link. Curious if anyone out there has had any experience with this or might be able to recommend a simple fix...?

i didn't think the Currie tie rods were prone to rolling, did you install the washer and foam looking piece? can you take a pic?

 

[tkettle]

i didn't think the Currie tie rods were prone to rolling, did you install the washer and foam looking piece? can you take a pic?

I recently bought this Jeep with all of the work already done to it, so I am trying to work through all the little issues... I will take some better pictures tonight, but here is a closeup of the tie rod ends... Thanks for all of your help!

 

[tkettle]

After looking online, it doesn't appear that these are Currie tie rod ends... They look like PSC d60 tie rod ends based on the picture of theirs online...

 

[jeeeep]

yeah, those aren't Currie ends. They do sell the boot to keep the flop under control, should fit D60 tie rod ends.

I guess just make sure it is a D60, the stabilizing boots are expensive:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=3656

 

[Cadima]

Struggling to picture how your cylinder can rub against the drag link without pics. For tie rod roll, you can "clock" the tie rod ends in opposite directions so each is bottomed out against the knuckles where it cant rotate in either direction, according to Synergy ( I assume this applies to all JK tie rods). Either way, if the cylinder isn't parallel to the tie rod the torque on the tie rod will wear our your rod ends in short order.

 

[tkettle]

Thanks jeeeep! I will check the PSC ends to make sure they will work. I appreciate your help!

 

[tkettle]

Struggling to picture how your cylinder can rub against the drag link without pics. For tie rod roll, you can "clock" the tie rod ends in opposite directions so each is bottomed out against the knuckles where it cant rotate in either direction, according to Synergy ( I assume this applies to all JK tie rods). Either way, if the cylinder isn't parallel to the tie rod the torque on the tie rod will wear our your rod ends in short order.

Yeah, I can get better pictures tonight, but with as much roll as these ends allow, it pushes the cylinder up to be directly underneath the drag link causing the bolt to rub at full turn passenger... Then it will roll all the way forward as well which allows the cylinder to fall onto the tie rod causing it to chatter that way too... I think it is more annoying than it is damaging, but I am concerned enough to post it...

 

[tkettle]

yeah, those aren't Currie ends. They do sell the boot to keep the flop under control, should fit D60 tie rod ends.

I guess just make sure it is a D60, the stabilizing boots are expensive:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=3656

I am also a little concerned that if I head this route that I will lose articulation in the front end... Does anyone know if it will be significantly impacted if I tighten up the tie rod?

I am running a 5.5" RK mid arm lift with 40" tires...

 

[jeeeep]

Struggling to picture how your cylinder can rub against the drag link without pics. For tie rod roll, you can "clock" the tie rod ends in opposite directions so each is bottomed out against the knuckles where it cant rotate in either direction, according to Synergy ( I assume this applies to all JK tie rods). Either way, if the cylinder isn't parallel to the tie rod the torque on the tie rod will wear our your rod ends in short order.

I have the synergy tie rod and 'clocking' does not work, when I called them about it they had just released their misalignment spacers to cure this issue. my PSC handles better since installing the misalignment spacer.

 

[tkettle]

I have the synergy tie rod and 'clocking' does not work, when I called them about it they had just released their misalignment spacers to cure this issue. my PSC handles better since installing the misalignment spacer.

Jeeeep, can u post a picture of yours with the misalignment spacers please? Do you have a Synergy tie rod with Synergy ends?

 

[jeeeep]

I am also a little concerned that if I head this route that I will lose articulation in the front end... Does anyone know if it will be significantly impacted if I tighten up the tie rod?

I am running a 5.5" RK mid arm lift with 40" tires...View attachment 186837

you won't lose enough articulation, if any, to even notice.

I haven't noticed any difference in articulation, it made my psc ram operate smoother and steering doesn't bind anymore

 

[tkettle]

you won't lose enough articulation, if any, to even notice.

I haven't noticed any difference in articulation, it made my psc ram operate smoother and steering doesn't bind anymore

What setup are you running? What front axle too?

 

[jeeeep]

What setup are you running? What front axle too?

I have a Clayton 3.5" lift all control arms, last year I swapped out the coils for EVO 4" plush rides and King 2.5 shocks to make room for the 37's.

I got hit in the front and the insurance agreed to let me upgrade if I paid the difference so I had a Dynatrac PR44 installed using all my Rubi D44 parts that weren't damaged reused.

When the shop that did the axle swap, they also replaced the tie rod/drag link/track bar with Synergy, they also installed the PSC assist.

I had all kinds of binding issues with the PSC and after too many trips back to the install shop and them telling me it was "normal, I'd get used to it" I decided I would educate myself on the PSC system. I found out they made a few install errors and also the Synergy tie rod was flopping and hitting the drag link as well. I tried "clocking" the tie rod with no success. I called Synergy and found out they knew this was an issue and had developed the spacers. The spacers took care of the flop and hitting the drag link issue but I still don't like how noisy the Heim joint is on the track bar (having to tighten it regularly) and the drag link still has too much flop I don't feel I'm getting any benefit from it other than noise.

I rambled lol but hope it helps

 

[MR.Ty]

I have a Clayton 3.5" lift all control arms, last year I swapped out the coils for EVO 4" plush rides and King 2.5 shocks to make room for the 37's.

I got hit in the front and the insurance agreed to let me upgrade if I paid the difference so I had a Dynatrac PR44 installed using all my Rubi D44 parts that weren't damaged reused.

When the shop that did the axle swap, they also replaced the tie rod/drag link/track bar with Synergy, they also installed the PSC assist.

I had all kinds of binding issues with the PSC and after too many trips back to the install shop and them telling me it was "normal, I'd get used to it" I decided I would educate myself on the PSC system. I found out they made a few install errors and also the Synergy tie rod was flopping and hitting the drag link as well. I tried "clocking" the tie rod with no success. I called Synergy and found out they knew this was an issue and had developed the spacers. The spacers took care of the flop and hitting the drag link issue but I still don't like how noisy the Heim joint is on the track bar (having to tighten it regularly) and the drag link still has too much flop I don't feel I'm getting any benefit from it other than noise.

I rambled lol but hope it helps

This is a lot of good info. Thank you. :thumbup:

 

[tkettle]

Very good info Jeeeep, thank you for your help! A local off road shop recommended "the cure" from ruff stuff, but on the pictures is looks like it is on the drag link connection to the tie rod, which mine does not do... I hope I can get the Synergy ends and misalignment spacers to help this issue... Thanks again for your help!

 

[jeeeep]

Very good info Jeeeep, thank you for your help! A local off road shop recommended "the cure" from ruff stuff, but on the pictures is looks like it is on the drag link connection to the tie rod, which mine does not do... I hope I can get the Synergy ends and misalignment spacers to help this issue... Thanks again for your help!

to be fair, ruff stuff "cure" spacer is made to fit any 1 ton TRE, if you have 1 ton TRE's it should work. It's made of Delrin so if it's a little too tight it can be sanded to fit snug and get rid of the flop.

 

[tkettle]

Thanks Jeeeep, I think I am headed down a path of replacing the tie rod, and I thought you said in one of the posts that you just bought the Yeti from steersmarts... What is your reasoning for tossing your synergy and going to that? I was thinking the synergy looked like a great setup...

 

[Cadima]

I have the synergy tie rod and 'clocking' does not work, when I called them about it they had just released their misalignment spacers to cure this issue. my PSC handles better since installing the misalignment spacer.

FYI....You can clock the Synergy tie rod, but you need to add an extra jamb nut to the adjustable side. I got one off ebay for a few bucks. It rotationally secures the tie rod end to the rod and eliminates the flop.