DIY Spod- Waytekwire

pvanweelden

New member
Bolted the daystar to the windshield trim panel
uploadfromtaptalk1387929457147.jpg
the ugly crap along the mounting edge is glue i didn't clean up yet
 
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pvanweelden

New member
Cleaned up the excess rtv around the edges. If you are more patient than I was, the rtv should hold the two pieces together fine, so you wouldn't need the screws.
uploadfromtaptalk1388086830083.jpg
 

Trembley

New member
Looks even better cleaned up still can't wait to see the illuminated shots!!...I keep saying that because I am trying to decide to go with image top, text bottom switches like you have there or image top, text middle, bar bottom switches... lol
 

pvanweelden

New member
The switches that i got from waytekwire, are only lighted when On, so i got the regular covers, instead of the covers with the bar.
Otrattw sells the dual led switches, but they are $9-11 each. only difference in how i have done this writeup, and using the dual led switches is- you would need to run a wire from the switches to a "hot with lights on" source wire.
Even if you don't get the covers with the bar at the bottom, the Name at the bottom would light up (with the covers i got), with the dual led switches.
 

pvanweelden

New member
Here's a pic of the back of my switches wired up.
uploadfromtaptalk1388184585566.jpg
There's plenty of room behind the windshield trim panel for the wiring, I loomed my wiring in electrical tape and then made sure nothing was close to the snap clips while reinstalling the panel
Note- i had ordered some of the 90 degree (flag) female quick connectors- you don't need these if using the daystar, just get the regular female quick connector terminals, they are much easier to crimp.
*- added the regular female quick disconnect terminals to the required items list on first post.

Please note- this picture is upside down in relation to the pin locations on the switches, Pin 7 is at the bottom in the picture.
 
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pvanweelden

New member
Here is the relay panel behind the glove box, all wired up.
uploadfromtaptalk1388184769860.jpg
Note- I have more wiring than typical, because I will have 5 more switches in another location for 2 horns, 4 seat heaters, and winch in/out.
My extra wiring waiting to go to the other switches is below the glove box for now
 

pvanweelden

New member
I later taped up the positive pole on the back of the relay panel.
I went ahead and ran 5 wires out through the firewall for my outputs, I don't have anything to actually hook up yet, but I bundled the wires behind the battery. the wires are not actually connected to the output of the relay panel yet, otherwise they would be safely taped off to not touch ground.
uploadfromtaptalk1388185029239.jpg
Note the fuse at the battery on the 8 gauge power wire.* I used a fuse for now, will switch it out for a circuit breaker later, added 50 Amp Circuit breaker to list from waytekwire in post #1

Here is where I grounded mine- passenger side kickpanel- there are 2 stock ground bolts there-
1392758843994.jpg

And here is an example that SaddleTramp showed me- on 2012 or newer, you should have a hole in the firewall, that you could run your cables through.
firewall1.jpg

I am going to check if that hole is there on older jk's. Edit- just found on my 07, so I am guessing all jk's should have this hole. It is behind the wire loom above the battery. Thanks SaddleTramp and Will!
 
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pvanweelden

New member
And finally, here's the switches all on
uploadfromtaptalk1388185281975.jpg
Notes- I grounded at the passenger kick panel to one of the factory ground spots.
I used 5' of 8 gauge red and 3' of 8 gauge black.
ran thru an existing hole that previous owner had right at passenger feet, just above where the carpet stops.
 

JAGS

Hooked
Is there a "print thread" function? Well, except for the wire stripper post. That was lame. Lol. The rest is making for a great thread.


- Jason
 

pvanweelden

New member
Here is another switch location for you, and where I am going to mount my 2nd switch pod. Just below the center console/arm rest. Puts the switches right at your finger tips, great for lockers, winch control, horns.
uploadfromtaptalk1388252413046.jpg
 

Jeep_Dawg08

New member
This is an awesome write up for tbose of us that can't throw $500 on an Spod. Ty for helping out.
Ok I have a cpl questions as I've not done multiple lights and or accessories before. So to some it may seem like silly or idiotic questions. . But better to ask and learn than fry something. :eek:

1. At what point do I upgrade my battery and alternator to supply everything... or does the relays help keep the draw lower? The use of a relay is escaping me ATM. :confused:

2. If using more than one relay/fuse block do seperate power wires need to be ran or can u run one wire from battery and the others off the positive of the first relay/fuse block?

I plan on running about 6-8 kc lights forward, 1 rear, and 4 under. A cb, a winch sometime this year as well.
Just want to get it all ready for things to come.
 
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1. At what point do I upgrade my battery and alternator to supply everything... or does the relays help keep the draw lower? The use of a relay is escaping me ATM. :confused:

The Relay does nothing to effect the load. It only removes the load from the switch circuit. Most switches can only handle a small load. The relay can switch much higher loads so by using the switch to activate the relay both you can use a low current switch to turn on a high current accessory. The truth is that with the improvements in LED lights there are many instances that a relay is unnecessary as the current is low enough for some switches. I still run mine with a relay as is allows better circuit design and flexibility.

2. If using more than one relay/fuse block do seperate power wires need to be ran or can u run one wire from battery and the others off the positive of the first relay/fuse block?

You can run one positive but it will need to be able to carry the full current of all the circuits. Also, the wire should be protected for it's full ampacity. There are automotive circuit breakers available for this. This is a great writ-up and out of respect for the writer I don't want to link away from this thread, but if you do a search on "SPOD" you will find some other write-ups that incorporate this.

I plan on running about 6-8 kc lights forward, 1 rear, and 4 under. A cb, a winch sometime this year as well.
Just want to get it all ready for things to come.

This will be a BUNCH of current rather than going with QTY I would suggest spending the money on higher quality lights that will perform as well and not require as many to do it. Just my :twocents:
 
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