cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Tires then gears or if you can afford it Both at the same time
Do Yourself a Favor - Regear Your 2012-Up JK!!
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
Tires then gears or if you can afford it Both at the same time
JayKay
Caught the Bug
I would do tires first because your Jeep will run pretty high RPMs with 4.88s and stock tires. Or do both at the same time if you can swing it.
JayKay
Caught the Bug
Beat me to it
Saharaunlmtd
Caught the Bug
This thread has me torn. I have a 2015 with 3.73s and an auto. I have a set of 35" MTRs in my garage w/ 1,800 miles on them that I pulled off my last JK before I traded it in. It was an 07 w/ 4.10 & auto.
I currently like how my new jeep actually goes when I get on the throttle. A $1500 regear is just never going to be in the budget for me.
Will the 35s take away all the pep of the 3.6 and should sell in favor of 33s???
I currently like how my new jeep actually goes when I get on the throttle. A $1500 regear is just never going to be in the budget for me.
Will the 35s take away all the pep of the 3.6 and should sell in favor of 33s???
JayKay
Caught the Bug
You'll be fine with 35s and 3.73s. I run the same setup only with a manual but I know plenty of guys who have autos with 35s and 3.73s and they don't complain. You'll definitely notice a decrease in power, but have the satisfaction of running 35s. Just make sure you calibrate your speedo
Saharaunlmtd
Caught the Bug
I'm 99.9% sure I returned my last jk to stock with my procal so I should be good to calibrate the speedo. Guess I can throw them on just to see. I'm hoping the fact that they are on light 15" alloys will help.
The brake calipers are still the same and not all alloy wheels will clear them. If you're determined to run 15" wheels, you may find it necessary to grind down your calipers a bit. Depending on what size tire you ultimately plan to run, I would recommend against 15" wheels.
LOL!! Of course, to each their own. Again, nothing has changed, the brakes are still the same.
I think you'll find that tire selection and price for 17's are plentiful and still affordable. 16" and 18" is where you start to see less options and higher prices. If you're running 35" or bigger, 17" is a good size.
Saharaunlmtd
Caught the Bug
If u don't plan on going bigger than 35s and don't plan on upgrading the tie rod, u can't beat the price of 15s. A 35/12.5R15 MTR runs $230 and a 35/12.5R17 MTR runs $331!!!
JKWrang
New member
This!
16" tires are cheaper but the selection is rreeeaaallllyyy limited. The 17s have soooo many options and varieties. The 18+ is just insane $$$$
Donny
New member
2013 JKU Sport 3.73 gears, auto, 35" Trail Grapplers, 3.5" lift....live in Phoenix...mostly city driving with the need to do 70+ on the freeways. Not a killer rock climber. More of the moderate or lower trails until I get my skill set up. Looking to regear... what say you? 4.56 or 4.88? I very much doubt I'll go 37's due to the d30 up front and a PR44 is just too much money for us to swing.
Donny
Donny
Rancho
Caught the Bug
If MPG is more important to you than power, 4.56 is what I would recommend. 4.88 is what I personally would go with but only because I'd want the extra power.
OhhSeven
New member
Technically you can go to a 5.38 but it's not recommended. If your are planning gears for 35's (assuming you have an auto) then go with 5.13's.