Evo Draglink Flip Kit Question

zeddjb

zeddjb

New member
http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-DRAGLINKFLIP

I know this has been discussed to death on this forum and others and I'm sure most people are sick of reading and discussing it, however I have my own questions before I buy to ensure I'm not getting in over my head.

1. I know that having a draglink flip kit its a good idea, especially considering I have a 4.5" lift on my '12 four door JKR. Is this a 100% bolt on upgrade or is there going to be cutting and welding involved? I know the description says "complete bolt on design" but I always like to be sure.

2. Also, after the upgrade, are there any parts that I need to worry about rubbing or clanking together or any kind of binding whatsoever?

3. Are there any upgrades that I need to do prior to installing this? Requirements?

4. Can this be installed with the Jeep on the ground? I don't have a lift to put the Jeep on.

5. Does someone have a write up or some pictures that show the install? I like to review installs before I buy to make sure that I am able to do the upgrade.


Are there any questions you have that will help you answer these questions?


Thanks,

-Justin
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
zeddjb said:
http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-DRAGLINKFLIP

I know this has been discussed to death on this forum and others and I'm sure most people are sick of reading and discussing it, however I have my own questions before I buy to ensure I'm not getting in over my head.

1. I know that having a draglink flip kit its a good idea, especially considering I have a 4.5" lift on my '12 four door JKR. Is this a 100% bolt on upgrade or is there going to be cutting and welding involved? I know the description says "complete bolt on design" but I always like to be sure.

2. Also, after the upgrade, are there any parts that I need to worry about rubbing or clanking together or any kind of binding whatsoever?

3. Are there any upgrades that I need to do prior to installing this? Requirements?

4. Can this be installed with the Jeep on the ground? I don't have a lift to put the Jeep on.

5. Does someone have a write up or some pictures that show the install? I like to review installs before I buy to make sure that I am able to do the upgrade.


Are there any questions you have that will help you answer these questions?


Thanks,

-Justin
Click to expand...

Answer #1 - Yes it is 100% bolt on. There is no cutting but you do have to drill some holes. The most difficult would be drilling the steering knuckle. Follow the instructions for proper size, use a good cutting oil and take your time on this. I believe the only other hole is the a small hole on the driver's side coil perch.


Answer #2 - After my install I had no clanking or binding. Just ensure you are using the proper length sway bar links. If they are too short they can hyper extend during full flex and get bent into a nice hair pin


Answer #3 - There were no additional upgrades for this besides lifting your vehicle 3" or more


Answer #4 - Yes this can be done with the Jeep on the ground. My advice would be to lift the front of the vehicle as high as you safely can letting the axle droop to its max with the front wheels off. This will provide you with the most amount of working room. If you have access to a right angle drill I'd borrow it as this makes drilling the Driver's side coil perch much easier. Again take your time drilling the steering knuckle. The metal is soft and a sharp bit will catch and potentially hurt you as the drill continues to try and spin. Also if you oval the hole out the new sleeve won't fit properly and you'll more than likely need to replace the passenger side knuckle.


Answer #5 - I wish I had a write up for you. I do have some pics but that is about it. The instructions themselves are pretty good and the black and white photos aren't too bad and provide some help. Google it I'm sure you can prob find one or a video somewhere to aid in the install.
 
MTG

MTG

Caught the Bug
I'll add to the above...

Start with a step bit before moving to the large diameter bit needed to drill out the knuckle. I posted a picture of it somewhere on here, though it may be over on JKF.
 
Devallee

Devallee

New member
I just installed this last week and like it was mentioned above, the process is pretty straight forward. Just take your time drilling out the steering knuckle. Also, it is completely bolt on but EVO strongly recommends welding the brackets on sometime soon after install, especially if you do any serious wheeling. And I don't know if you already bought that 13/16" drill bit but I had a hard time finding one to buy in any store (and needed it ASAP so I couldn't order it online) but I found a guy that worked at a machine shop that let me borrow it for the day so if you don't wanna get it online or can't find it in store I'd try that. Other than that it takes nothing more than patience and maybe a beer or two :thumb:
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
MTG said:
I'll add to the above...

Start with a step bit before moving to the large diameter bit needed to drill out the knuckle. I posted a picture of it somewhere on here, though it may be over on JKF.
Click to expand...

Yes I forgot I did that too. Thanks for mentioning it.
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
Devallee said:
I just installed this last week and like it was mentioned above, the process is pretty straight forward. Just take your time drilling out the steering knuckle. Also, it is completely bolt on but EVO strongly recommends welding the brackets on sometime soon after install, especially if you do any serious wheeling. And I don't know if you already bought that 13/16" drill bit but I had a hard time finding one to buy in any store (and needed it ASAP so I couldn't order it online) but I found a guy that worked at a machine shop that let me borrow it for the day so if you don't wanna get it online or can't find it in store I'd try that. Other than that it takes nothing more than patience and maybe a beer or two :thumb:
Click to expand...

Is it 13/16" now? When I installed mine it was a 7/8", that's why I mentioned follow the directions...haha. I'm lucky I have a specialty tool shop in town, but unfortunately when I was doing my build I thought they had gone out of business but actually just moved, so I ordered mine online.
 
zeddjb

zeddjb

New member
So I suppose I shouldn't buy the bit until I get the parts to ensure the size.

I did check today at Ace Hardware and they do not carry that size bit. I will have to try and find a shop and hope.


Sent from my SPH-L720 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
zeddjb

zeddjb

New member
jesse0920 said:
Answer #5 - I wish I had a write up for you. I do have some pics but that is about it. The instructions themselves are pretty good and the black and white photos aren't too bad and provide some help. Google it I'm sure you can prob find one or a video somewhere to aid in the install.
Click to expand...


I found a video about a Synergy installation but they were doing some cutting and welding which is why I was asking about if it was 100% bolt on earlier.

I would very much be interested in your pictures. Any before pics would be helpful too if you have any.
 
zeddjb

zeddjb

New member
One More Question...

Another question before I pull the trigger on this purchase.

Why is there a new drag link with this kit? Is this just a new OEM drag link or is it an after-market one? Can't the original drag link be used instead?

These are questions, not accusations. I just like to understand is all :blush:


Thanks ;)

:standing wave:
 
Sharkey

Sharkey

Word Ninja
zeddjb said:
Another question before I pull the trigger on this purchase.

Why is there a new drag link with this kit? Is this just a new OEM drag link or is it an after-market one? Can't the original drag link be used instead?

These are questions, not accusations. I just like to understand is all :blush:


Thanks ;)

:standing wave:
Click to expand...

No, it cannot be used. That's the "flip" part of the drag link flip kit. I believe the kit uses an OEM right hand drive draglink. If you just flipped a left hand drive drag link upside down, the bend would be in the wrong direction.
 
BBrown626

BBrown626

New member
What track bar do you have? With a flip kit the teraflex track bar did not have much room before hitting the pitman arm. I had to switch back to the stock track bar. My lift is just right though, so I don't need an adjustable track bar after the flip.
 
D

DunnyBunny

Member
BBrown626 said:
What track bar do you have? With a flip kit the teraflex track bar did not have much room before hitting the pitman arm. I had to switch back to the stock track bar. My lift is just right though, so I don't need an adjustable track bar after the flip.
Click to expand...

I'm glad you mentioned this. I feel better bout putting my stock back on fir now. I had the teraflex one. But I'm planning on going with the synergy 3" springs with their draglink flip kit which relocates the trackbar up and recenters axle anyways so no need for aftermarket supposedly.
 
zeddjb

zeddjb

New member
If I took a few pictures of my front end, would someone be able to tell me if I should buy/install this kit and if it would even fit? I took a look under there today and it looks to me to be pretty parallel. The trackbar on the other hand looks like it angles downward much more than the draglink but I suppose it's supposed to? I don't know...

I really wish I understood it better because I feel like a real moron asking these simple questions over and over.
 
munstie

munstie

New member
You may need longer bumpstops at least for the passenger side to keep the draglink from hitting the frame. At full stuff.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.
 
zeddjb

zeddjb

New member
Once it's nice and sunny outside again I'll work on getting some pictures. In the meantime, I I'll ask another question.

For as long as I have had my JK, I have had it lifted and I can't remember a time that it didn't bounce around on the road. When I travel back and forth to town or where ever I go for that matter, if I hit a medium size bump in the road, I can really feel it and the front end it seems takes a bit to re-stabilize/recover.

Anywhere from 20 MPH or more the front end is really sketchy on bumps. I know many of you will say "Death Wobble" or bump steer or some variant of it and you are probably correct. I have checked many times the different areas that could possibly be weak points such as all the knuckles and the track bar bolt (which has been reinforced and a new larger bolt installed) none of which seem to indicate a problem.

My thought was to start buying front end parts to replace until it went away and I figured the flip kit would be a good start. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
dchew

dchew

Caught the Bug
zeddjb said:
Once it's nice and sunny outside again I'll work on getting some pictures. In the meantime, I I'll ask another question.

For as long as I have had my JK, I have had it lifted and I can't remember a time that it didn't bounce around on the road. When I travel back and forth to town or where ever I go for that matter, if I hit a medium size bump in the road, I can really feel it and the front end it seems takes a bit to re-stabilize/recover.

Anywhere from 20 MPH or more the front end is really sketchy on bumps. I know many of you will say "Death Wobble" or bump steer or some variant of it and you are probably correct. I have checked many times the different areas that could possibly be weak points such as all the knuckles and the track bar bolt (which has been reinforced and a new larger bolt installed) none of which seem to indicate a problem.

My thought was to start buying front end parts to replace until it went away and I figured the flip kit would be a good start. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

Have you checked your caster?

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
 
zeddjb

zeddjb

New member
I had an alignment done last month and they gave me a print out of the before and after. Unfortunatly, my scanner is not working so I can't post the print out, but I'll do my best to explain what I'm looking at.

According to the print out:

Left Front - Camber: -1.0
Caster: +4.7
Toe: +0.09

Right Front - Camber: -0.4
Caster: +4.0
Toe: +.09

Total Toe: +0.18

Steer Ahead: 0.00

Rear Left - Camber: -0.4
Toe: +0.22

Right Rear - Camber: -0.4
Toe: +0.02

Total Toe Rear: +0.24
Thrust Angle: +0.10

I was told by the mechanic that the only way to fix the -1.0 on the left front camber was to get an adjustable upper ball joint. As for the caster, based on what I'm reading and how I understand what caster is, my axle is twisted because there is a difference of about 0.7 degrees. That means that I won't be able to get it back to the factor 4.2

Can anyone read those numbers and make better sense of it than I can? does something look like its off or totally messed up?
 
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