I have a question on the correct diode to use. You say a 3 amp 50PIV (RS part number 276-1141), a rectifier diode or a 12V Zener Diode 276-0563 (IN4742A)? Does it make scents that you could have more than 12V ? :thinking:
DIY Spod- Waytekwire
- Thread starter pvanweelden
- Start date
pvanweelden
New member
276-1144 $1.99
If they don't have that in stock the 276-1141 would also work.
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
If they don't have that in stock the 276-1141 would also work.
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Last edited:
Perfect. Thanks
pvanweelden
New member
Well, for those of you who don't want to solder or wire up one of these relay panels, i just found 2 different people on ebay selling the Cooper bussman relay panels, relays, fuses, prewired for $137+ free shipping. You would still need additional wiring and switches, circuit breaker. Don't ask me for help if you buy one of their panels. The panels are not wired the same as i have laid out in this writeup.
i guess i should have not shared this writeup and sold them on ebay :doh:
That's what i get for trying to be helpful
i guess i should have not shared this writeup and sold them on ebay :doh:
That's what i get for trying to be helpful
CanadianJK
New member
I posted my finished product to a local club's FB page and immediately was asked to make some for cash.
QUICK QUESTION THOUGH:
I need to troubleshoot a power issue, works flawlessly without the breaker, but initial install had the 50A breaker about 12" from pos terminal.
Switches were 'on' when I wired. Oops! Could that have tripped the breaker? What's reset time? Is it dangerous to run without the breaker?
QUICK QUESTION THOUGH:
I need to troubleshoot a power issue, works flawlessly without the breaker, but initial install had the 50A breaker about 12" from pos terminal.
Switches were 'on' when I wired. Oops! Could that have tripped the breaker? What's reset time? Is it dangerous to run without the breaker?
pvanweelden
New member
You need a breaker or a fuse at the battery that is large enough to protect the vehicle against the circuits you have.
IF you had all your circuits on when you connected to the battery, it was probably more than 50 Amps total. The circuit should reset on its on after a few minutes, when the load is under 50 Amp or there is not a short in the circuit.
You might want to add up your total current from each of the 5 circuits.
IF you had all your circuits on when you connected to the battery, it was probably more than 50 Amps total. The circuit should reset on its on after a few minutes, when the load is under 50 Amp or there is not a short in the circuit.
You might want to add up your total current from each of the 5 circuits.
darkknight1999
Member
You should get a regular circuit breaker. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SGP901001-Circuit-Breaker-100/dp/B00INR9MMO/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1412287750&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=stinger+100a+circuit+breaker
I use the Marine version of that for myself. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SCBM100-Marine-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B002LARRTE/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1412287970&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=stinger+100a+circuit+breaker
Either of those would be better than the thermal ones.... those work but I just don't trust them. Plus this way if you need to trouble shoot you can simply shut everything off by turning the breaker off.
I use the Marine version of that for myself. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SCBM100-Marine-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B002LARRTE/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1412287970&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=stinger+100a+circuit+breaker
Either of those would be better than the thermal ones.... those work but I just don't trust them. Plus this way if you need to trouble shoot you can simply shut everything off by turning the breaker off.
pvanweelden
New member
^ thanks for the links to those John! I will edit my first post and include them so people can decide for themselves what they want to use for circuit protection. As stated above, you need either a fuse or circuit breaker on the main power wire feeding the relay panel (with in 12 inches of the battery positive post) to protect your vehicle.
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
pvanweelden
New member
Thanks JKWrang! i would not suggest going as high as 150A- Simple math makes us think 150A for the whole load (5 relays @ 30 Amps= 150)
But add up all your actual circuits - Total Wattage divided by Voltage = Current Amps.
even if you have 5 -50" led light bars all on at once, you will only be at 125 Amps Max
The relay panel board itself is only rated at 80 Amps.
I would recommend either 50 Amp or 100 Amp breaker depending on your total load.
John has a 100 Amp, but he is also running 2 relay panels- 10 relays total.
Here is a marine 100A breaker from waytek- http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46872/MARINE-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-100A/
Here is a marine 50A breaker- http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46870/MARINE-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-50A/
But add up all your actual circuits - Total Wattage divided by Voltage = Current Amps.
even if you have 5 -50" led light bars all on at once, you will only be at 125 Amps Max
The relay panel board itself is only rated at 80 Amps.
I would recommend either 50 Amp or 100 Amp breaker depending on your total load.
John has a 100 Amp, but he is also running 2 relay panels- 10 relays total.
Here is a marine 100A breaker from waytek- http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46872/MARINE-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-100A/
Here is a marine 50A breaker- http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46870/MARINE-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-50A/
CanadianJK
New member
I'll try one of the other two breakers to see if the first one was faulty. It never reset.
darkknight1999
Member
If it didn't reset there might be a short... did you try disconnecting the load side feed? and see if it reset then?
So for an in cab winch control rocker switch, I want a SPDT on/off/on rocker switch, correct? And does it matter if I get 12 V or 18V switches?:thinking:
pvanweelden
New member
Yes- spdt switch and 18 or 12
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Thanks pvanweelden!!!
CanadianJK
New member
There weren't any loads when initially wired up, was using small LEDs to test connection. Only load was the switches.
Still planning on trying another breaker.
darkknight1999
Member
Something could still be shorted out. You don't need a load for there to be a short. There are many ways to cause a short.
CanadianJK
New member
I'll find it then.
Looking forward to getting these in the Jeep. One thing I would recommend is their crimp tool. It helped make quick work of the build. Thanks for a great write up!!!!
the crimp tool makes the crimps more secure and look pretty too!