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  1. #1
    Nothing but a Thing pvanweelden's Avatar
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    DIY Spod- Waytekwire

    The idea for using the Cooper Bussman relay/fuse panel is courtesy of White Dynamite.
    The proper way of hooking up accessories simply involves a switch, relay, fuse and wiring. That's all there is to it. This writeup will show you an easy way to wire up 5 circuits and avoid a lot of unnecessary wiring by using the Cooper Bussman relay/ fuse panel. Instead of wiring up 5 relays individually- you only need to supply the hot lead from the fuse to the relay, and the input/output wires to each relay.
    This writeup utilizes 30 Amp relays- which is enough to run a 50" LED light bar, or most electric air compressors.
    You should verify before hand, what circuits you already have and how many amps they will require- For LED lights- Add up total wattage of each light- (Total Watts/12volts=Amps Required)- Example- 100 watts/12= 8.33 Amps
    This write up is for a simple 5 switched accessory circuit. If you need more than 5 accessories, you will need an additional relay/fuse panel and additional relays- or will up individual relays as needed.

    This circuit passes 12 volts through the switch to the relay and then provides 12 volts out to the positive on the accessory. The accessory is then grounded to complete the circuit.

    This circuit is Live all the time, regardless of ignition switch. I will be installing a hidden kill switch to the 12 volt wire supplying the switches to disable them (so no one can turn anything on when my doors are off).

    A Single Pole Single Throw switch of almost any type can be used. I chose Carling Rocker switches for this writeup.

    You are free to decide where you want your switches, and where you want to mount the relay panel. It can be mounted under the hood, and has a waterproof cover included. You would want to plug any unused holes in the bottom of the panel.
    A perfect switch mount for those with an automatic is Daystar’s KJ71034bk ($20) as it has 5 switch locations. It could be easily modified to mount to the upper windshield or anywhere.

    Tools Required- wire cutters, wire strippers, wire crimpers, soldering gun, dremel or cutting tool (depending on where you mount your switches)

    All parts listed are from waytekwire.com- there is a minimum order quantity on the smaller items.
    The required components are:

    46343 Relay/Fuse Panel $28.48
    75730 Relays $14.55- Qty 5
    30069 Terminals $5.65- Qty 50
    39000 Seals $6.30- Qty 100
    31713 Blue Female Quick Disconnect terminals $8.49- qty 50
    46351 50 Amp Circuit Breaker $2.24 (you have to get qty 3 amazon has them individually for $5

    $66.18
    Depending on what you are hooking up, will determine what size fuses you use. You can go to any auto parts store to get the fuses as well in smaller quantites.
    ** This is where you need to plan what you will be hooking up and running off the relay panels- You may need a few 30 Amp Fuses- You can go to an auto parts store for small quantities.
    Most electric compressors will be 20-30 Amps, some higher. These relays are only rated at 30 Amp, and the mini style fuses only go to 30 Amp.
    A 50" LED lightbar will draw 25 Amps- you can use a 30 Amp fuse.

    From waytekwire, fuses are:
    46257 20A Fuses $5.60- Qty 50
    46255 10A Fuses $5.60- Qty 50

    $11.20


    Typical Carling Rocker Switches- light turns on only when switch is on. (see page 14 for info on double lit switches, that illuminate with your interior lights)
    44305 SPST Rocker Body Lighted $4.24ea- qty 5- $21.20
    44352 Rocker Cover Red Lense $1.38ea- qty 5- $6.90- don't order these if you will get otrattw covers
    Daystar KJ71034bk $20 (not available from waytekwire)
    $48.10
    So far- $125.48
    Wiring- Go to a local Car Audio Shop. You will need some 8 gauge wire for positive and ground, and then install the 50 Amp circuit breaker less than 12" from the battery positive post.
    You will also need some 16 gauge wire to run from the relay panel to the switches- 7 conductors (1 for each switch, and one for 12volt feed from fuse 6, and 1 to bring the ground from the switches back to the ground terminal on the relay panel)
    You will also want 16 gauge wire to run from the outputs of the relay panel to your accessories.
    Misc- (4) 8ga ring terminals, (1) Blue (16ga) ring terminal, (5) Blue Male Fully Insulated .250 Quick Disconnects- Car audio store
    About $35 for wiring, fuse holder, fuse, terminals

    You can get the Covers in a lot of different colors and lense colors from waytekwire or you can get the printed specific covers from otrattw.com for $5 each, ie “Rock Lights, Beer, etc”
    2013-12-13 11.43.48.jpg
    2013-12-13 11.41.05.jpg

    Before you begin, please note, once you insert the terminal into the back of the relay panel, it is pretty much permanent, so make sure your crimp on the terminal is good, solder it if you can. test by holding the terminal and pulling on the wire to see if it comes loose from the terminal.
    You will want to make all the connections to the back of the relay panel before installing the fuses or relays. If you will not be adding an accessory yet for accessory 5, don’t install the relay or fuse.

    typical wire crimped to terminal (slide seal on before crimping) and solder the crimp.
    2013-12-13 15.22.11.jpg
    The back of the relay panel, terminal posts on the bottom- The left post on the back goes directly to the positive on the battery with a fuse holder – 8 gauge wire. This post and connection will need to be taped up completely so it does not get grounded out.
    The right side post on the back goes to ground.
    2013-12-13 11.49.13.jpg
    How the terminals go into the relay panel (note orientation of terminal in the hole)
    2013-12-13 17.22.14.jpg

    start with some 16 ga wire, and make some runs that will feed power from each fuse to each relay. Push the terminals in tight to the relay panel.
    Fuse 1 will be for Relay 1, up to Fuse 5 for Relay 5.
    2013-12-13 15.16.57.jpg
    Fuse 6 - Green wire= 12 volts going to the switches.
    Brown wire is the output from the relay going to the positive on your accessory.
    White wire goes to the switch, and is the trigger for the relay (input)
    plug center unused holes on each relay with the seals
    Relay note- the red wires supply 12 volt constant fused to pin 30, pin 85 is grounded through relay panel, pin 86 is the white wire (relay input), and pin 87 is the brown wire (relay output)
    2013-12-13 15.19.12.jpg
    wire the rest of the relays up like relay 1. then flip it over and put relays and fuses in. NOTE- Relays are supposed to mount with lettering upside down as shown. Pin 85 has to go into upper left hand corner slot on relay panel.
    2013-12-13 11.45.59.jpg
    switches- pin 3 -white wire going to relay input on switch one, different wire from switch 2 to relay 2, switch 3 to relay 3, etc
    pin 2- green wire coming from fuse 6, you can daisy link this wire to feed all 5 switches.
    pin 7 (these are the illuminated when on switches shown) this pin goes to ground, and you can connect all pin 7's together and take to ground (run 1 conductor back to relay panel to the ground post).
    2013-12-13 17.01.54.jpg

    If you want- put a fuse in fuse 7 and run it to an accessory that doesn't need a relay, like a cb radio.

    Here's a wiring schematic for the relay panel and switches- note this is the back of the panel and the back of the switches. Line colors on layout do not match wire colors i used in pictures. From top of switch down is Pin 7, Pin 2, Pin 3. Pin 7 is ground, Pin 2 is power in, Pin 3 is power out
    CooperBussman%20Layout.jpg

    Here's a great writeup on a switch panel that is integrated with the windshield trim panel that looks as though it came that way from the factory
    http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?1...rim-switch-pod
    Great job Darkknight!

    and if you know up front you will want more than 5 relays/circuits- Cooper Bussman has a 10 relay/40 fuse panel for $57.57 from waytekwire.
    Installation procedure would be similar to shown here, but I don't have one to confirm 100%.
    http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46357...AY-2-88-MM-NO/
    Last edited by pvanweelden; 07-23-2014 at 07:12 PM. Reason: added darkknight's switch panel writeup

  2. #2
    Nothing but a Thing TheDuff's Avatar
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    Nice write up thus far. I like seeing the build process of the relay board and your detail will help electrical noobies out a lot:thumbup:

    Sent from my LG-D800 using WAYALIFE mobile app
    -Brandon

  3. #3
    Addict JAGS's Avatar
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    Keeping eyes on this one. Nice detail so far.


    - Jason
    I think I may consider lifting my Jeep. Or not.
    The Evolution of ENVY

  4. #4
    Nothing but a Thing pvanweelden's Avatar
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    Here 2 pics that White Dynamite uploaded showing how he mounted the relay panel in the dash behind the glove box.


    WD1.jpg

    WD2.jpg

  5. #5
    Nothing but a Thing pvanweelden's Avatar
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    To give you some ideas on what you can do with different switches, I used regular toggle switches with rubber weather protectors and $5 in pvc to make this switch mount in my tj, it attached to my rollcage.

    uploadfromtaptalk1386987695394.jpg

  6. #6
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    Great write up. One question what does the switch look like wired up?

    R/
    Will

  7. #7
    Nothing but a Thing pvanweelden's Avatar
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    ADDING WIRELESS CONTROLLER TO DIY SPOD---

    buy one of these-

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-4-Channe...tem2586fd04fb- $15+$6 shipping.
    or-
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12v-4-Ch...-/160957051029 $10 + Free shipping--- Use this one.

    order a 4 position fuse block from waytekwire to fuse the inputs to each relay. Part # 46080- $5.48. Get (4) 5 amp ATC fuses from auto parts store.

    here's what you get-
    20140325_111208.jpg
    here it is running all 4 channels at once- in latching mode-
    1396022290041.jpg
    Decide if you want the remote to turn on/off latching style or momentary (only on when you hold down the button)
    Latching style- Put jumper in either top or bottom pins depending on which panel you ordered.

    Here's the supplies you need to add to your existing diy spod- I hate using crimps, prefer to solder everything, but you will need to tap into 4 of your wires going from the relay panel to the switches (choose which 4 you want to wirelessly control). 4 different colored wire, 4 crimp taps, 5 insulated male quick disconnects, 10 insulated female quick disconnects, power wire, ground wire, one terminal and seal from relay panel parts, ring crimp for grounding to the relay panel post.

    Here is a quick sketch example of how I am adding it to my current diy spod setup- my switch 1 is my compressor (don't need wireless for that) - my other 4 switches are for lights.
    pvw-spod-wireless2.jpg

    Here is a $10 pod wired up and ready to be installed. I used 3 amp fuses (5 amp max).
    spodcontroller.jpg

    Disclaimer- Apparently the $10 devices all use the same wireless frequency . So I would highly suggest having a power switch or a disconnect, so you could disable the wireless functions when you don't need them.

    The $15 devices might also all use the same frequency (don't have 2 to test) but the $15 device is on a different frequency than the $10 device
    Last edited by pvanweelden; 04-03-2014 at 10:00 PM.

  8. #8
    Nothing but a Thing pvanweelden's Avatar
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    Was considering places for the switches today. This is where I am leaning towards. The only problem is, there is not enough depth, so I would have to cut into part of the center console, which I would then tape over what projects into the console.
    I might order the daystar 5 switch panel mentioned above, just to experiment with cutting it down and modifing it to fit up on the windshield trim like the spod. Any one ever mount switches under the center console like this?
    uploadfromtaptalk1387150070495.jpg
    Behind the trim panel
    uploadfromtaptalk1387150115369.jpg

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvanweelden View Post
    Since I will need 5 conductors for the switches, plus one for the 12v lead (fuse 6) to each switch, and a ground (lighted switches) I will be running 7 total conductors from switches to relay panel. Stopped at home depot and got 3 different colored pairs of 16ga stranded lamp cord and a 14 ga red stranded cable for the 12v (fuse 6). 10 ft of each- about $15
    Attachment 60332
    You need to be careful using lamp cord. The jacket material usually has a pretty low temperature rating so it will not do well with under hood temps. It will also harden in cold temps and crack easily. Essentially it is designed to work at room temp and not much more. There may be some with more temperature range but it's definitely something to check. Last thing you want to do is burn your Jeep to a crisp saving a few bucks.

    sent from my wiz-bang time killing machine

  10. #10
    Nothing but a Thing pvanweelden's Avatar
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    ^ thanks! excellent point, i called it lamp cord, but it is meant for outdoor ext cords. i don't plan on using it under the hood, only inside the jeep, from the relay panel to the switches. i deleted that post to clean up this thread and avoid confusion.

    Be sure to cover all wiring under the hood with wireloom (available from Car Audio Dealer) and use a rubber grommet at the firewall.

    Decided to go ahead and order 2 of Daystar KJ71034bk switch mount panels and modify one for the upper windshield and the other for the center console.
    M40482868.jpg



    ENGINE COMPARTMENT WIRING NOTE- If you plan on running anything down the frame rails right behind the front tires (rock light wiring, rear lights, etc) use wireloom and heat tape near the exhaust pipe.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Heat tape.

    1407852486392.jpg
    Last edited by pvanweelden; 08-12-2014 at 02:35 PM.



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