Help with fixing my paint job.

DMF

Active Member
Well this was my first attempt on painting and it turned out really funky. I use restoleum in a rattle can. 2 coats of primer and then 2 cans of flat black paint. I sprayed about 18" from the material and now have really bad orange peel. I tried to spray more to cover up and it just made it more spotty/worse. Can I sand it down or something to smooth it out? ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1404694338.677447.jpg
 

Dukes_of_C.Rock

New member
Well this was my first attempt on painting and it turned out really funky. I use restoleum in a rattle can. 2 coats of primer and then 2 cans of flat black paint. I sprayed about 18" from the material and now have really bad orange peel. I tried to spray more to cover up and it just made it more spotty/worse. Can I sand it down or something to smooth it out? View attachment 90909

When it come to good finishes prep is everything. Make sure your surface is clean of all dirt and oils. Just don't wipe it down with a shop rag. Also don't be in a hurry to cover it all. Do good even coats. Another reason is don't paint if the surface it to hot it will dry to quick and give it the orange peel because it didn't have time to level it self out.
 

DMF

Active Member
Ah, it was in the 90's this pass weekend when I painted it. I did sand it down and used mineral spirits to get the oil off before painting it. Regardless is there a way I can fix this?
 

Dukes_of_C.Rock

New member
Ah, it was in the 90's this pass weekend when I painted it. I did sand it down and used mineral spirits to get the oil off before painting it. Regardless is there a way I can fix this?

Since it's dried you will have to start over. Sanding is the only fix at this point.
 

Looney Tune

New member
Ah, it was in the 90's this pass weekend when I painted it. I did sand it down and used mineral spirits to get the oil off before painting it. Regardless is there a way I can fix this?

Mineral spirits is a oil base..
If your paint isn't a oil base paint you will get orange peel..
It's best to use lacquer thinner. .or denatured alcohol. .just a lightly dampened rag will do..
just my 2cents.. and this is what has always worked for me:D..and if it is just a (dry sprayed) from it being to hot. you should be able to fix it with some 1500 grit..lightly wet sand it and rub it out ...give it another coat if you get down to your primer..
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DMF

Active Member
Mineral spirits is a oil base..
If your paint isn't a oil base paint you will get orange peel..
It's best to use lacquer thinner. .or denatured alcohol. .just a lightly dampened rag will do..
just my 2cents.. and this is what has always worked for me:D..and if it is just a (dry sprayed) from it being to hot. you should be able to fix it with some 1500 grit..lightly wet sand it and rub it out ...give it another coat if you get down to your primer..
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Thanks for all the replies and tips.

Branks that paint job looks great!

Thanks Looney, I will definitely try this and if it all fails I will take it to a professional.
 
Looks like the paint dried to fast and fried.
90's is hot and if in the sun the surface was way to hot to paint.

Or the can wasn't shaken well enough....
 

JAGS

Hooked
It may/may not matter, but when spraying metal Ive used an automotive primer. Have had good luck so far with adhesion.

For paint I use rustoliums pro enamel. Has been great for touching up my rails. They have in flat and semi gloss...but don't think they make bed liner in the pro.


- Jason
 

HILLZ

Member
If your going to strip it back to metal again i'd suggest using a painters prepwash on the metal then go over it with a tac cloth, then use an etch primer for a few coats then the final colour over that. Anything over about 75 is starting to get to hot.


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DMF

Active Member
to this day best thing i've seen used on there is spray bed liner.
Thanks Crucial, but with my skill level I rather not use that spray. Would hate to remove bed liner spray if I made a mistake.

Looks like the paint dried to fast and fried.
90's is hot and if in the sun the surface was way to hot to paint.

Or the can wasn't shaken well enough....
Thanks Trout, gonna pick up a can of this along with the sand paper Looney recommened. But hopefully I won't have to go this far and strip the paint, I already feel like I'm in over my head.

Thanks again everyone for all the helpful advice. i knew I was in way over my head when I got to the paint isle.
 

jims68

New member
Practice, practice and you will get it! When spraying get it on thick but not runny with overlap. Most cans say 60 to 70 for temp but 90 is pushing it. It dries before adhesion and the overlap won't bond to itself either. You also get that wave look even if it bonds. Rustoleum is very forgiving with primers and surface prep. I've been using the brush hammered metal black for touch ups on axles and frame. Applied hot all brush lines disappear.
 

DMF

Active Member
Thanks everyone for the advice. I painted my fairlead mount with the same paint I used to paint the bumper but this time made sure the weather was cool and using the suggested products for prepping. It turn out good. Then I tried sanding down my bumper with 1000 grit wet sandpaper but I think I may have made too many coats of paint for the sandpaper to do anything. So stripping it down and starting over it is.
 
to this day best thing i've seen used on there is spray bed liner.

Me too. I use the Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner. I love/hate it. It barely sticks to anything and chips easily. But it blends AMAZINGLY and repairs are invisible. The chipping isn't that big-a-deal to me because I usually need to touch-up trail rubs anyway... That's what I get for driving a school bus on trails designed for 2-doors. :D
 
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