RCV Axles, Reid Knuckles, Synergy Tie Rod and High Steer - Let the installs begin!

Finn Sizzle

Finn Sizzle

New member
I'm a weekend mechanic, I do just about all of the upgrade/installs on my Jeep (except when it came to doing the gear upgrades), however I get a bit nervous when I start to pull apart my front steering and the front axle shafts. I have seen a few installation videos on the RCV Axles and the Synergy Tie rod, not much on the Reid Knuckles and the High Steer. I do know that all of the components do work well together (from what I have seen and researched) and I know that I need to pick up a socket for the removal of the axles from the shaft and I see there are 2 different size castle nuts that I'll need to pick up some castle sockets for (still do not know what sizes yet).

All components are in hand and my plan is to start the installs over the coming week, but before I do I wanted to reach out to the community to those that have already completed these types of installs and see if there are any "gotchas" that I should know about before I begin.

  • RCV Ultimate Dana 44 JK Rubicon Front Axle Set - RCVCVJ44-JK
  • Synergy MFG Jeep JK Chromoly Tie Rod - SYN8002
  • Synergy MFG Jeep JK High Steer Drag Link - SYN8001
  • Reid Knuckle - RDRJK001L
  • Reid Knuckle - RDRJK001R

I am using this as another opportunity to get to "know my Jeep" and I'll be doing installation videos and write-ups on it as well, so I can pass the knowledge down the line. Any insight or information that you have that can help, let me know. I'd appreciate any feedback to make it so I don't have my Jeep up on a lift for a few weeks while I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure it all out.

Thanks folks!
 
jorod15

jorod15

New member
Do you have stock rims? I do know you need at least 4.5" backspacing to use the synergy tierod. Stock rims are 6.4ish if I remember what synergy told me.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Just a couple things to watch out for...

1. When you pull our your stock axles, make sure the plastic rings on them come out too. If they stick in the tubes you can push them into the inner axle seals when installing new axles and cause them to leak or worst case tear them. There are usually two per side.

2. Take a baseline measurement on your factory tie rod before you remove it and use that as the starting point when you install the new one. Don't bother with drag link since when you flip it, the length will change for sure.

I don't know what you starting from but I'm assuming you have a raised front trackbar bracket already or are adding one? Don't install higher steer unless you raise trackbar too or you'll kill the steering geometry and have very bad bump steer.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Honestly, save your money and skip the orange knuckles. For how much they are, they'll only give you about an inch more clearance at the tie-rod - in other words, you're still going to hit it. Being that you are wanting to get a HD tie-rod, you'll be covered there.
 
Finn Sizzle

Finn Sizzle

New member
Yep, all are already purchased and in hand.

I guess just like with everything we upgrades there are always pros and cons on upgrades.

Also, yes I made sure I have enough Backspace with my rims. I made sure they are 4.5", so I am good there.

Question on the draglink flip. I did not think I still needed to do that with the Reid knuckles. Is this not correct? Do I still need to get the flip bracket?


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
 
Last edited:
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Finn Sizzle said:
Question on the draglink flip. I did not think I still needed to do that with the Reid knuckles. Is this nit correct? Do I still need to get the flip bracket?
Click to expand...

Yes, you will still need to get a track bar relocation bracket and preferably one that attaches on the axle. You'll want to make sure you get one that is secured to the axle well, is of the appropriate height so that your track bar will be parallel to your drag link and if you can, have it welded on.
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
Finn Sizzle said:
Yep, all are already purchased and in hand.

I guess just like with everything we upgrades there are always pros and cons on upgrades.

Also, yes I made sure I have enough Backspace with my rims. I made sure they are 4.5", so I am good there.

Question on the draglink flip. I did not think I still needed to do that with the Reid knuckles. Is this not correct? Do I still need to get the flip bracket?


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
Click to expand...

Do the orange knuckles come tapered for the flip already? Also I always clean the unit bearing very well and apply antiseize where it slides into the knuckles, so when I need to take it apart on the trail it comes right apart. Also the three 12pt bolts.
 
silversurfer575

silversurfer575

Member
rinkishjk said:
Do the orange knuckles come tapered for the flip already? Also I always clean the unit bearing very well and apply antiseize where it slides into the knuckles, so when I need to take it apart on the trail it comes right apart. Also the three 12pt bolts.
Click to expand...

Yes they do. I just did the RCVs, Reids, and synergy Ball joints on my JK this past weekend. I have the EVO drag link flip. On the stock knuckle, you have to drill out the steering arm, then insert a sleeve, then insert the drag link on the top of the steering arm of the knuckle. On the Reids, you just drop the drag link in on the top of the steering arm on the knuckle.

Not so sure I would use anitseize on the 12 point bolts. If those back out for some reason, your going to be in a world of hurt. I know. My dumbass shop didnt tighten those down on one side when I had them do some work for me a year ago. Tire damn near came off. As it was, they had to buy me a new set of brake pads and a new rotor. The rotor got scarred up by the brake caliper.
 
Finn Sizzle

Finn Sizzle

New member
hmmm..so, what I was thinking that this could all be something that I could easily do, however is not appearing so. This is why I bring it to the forums first...or after I buy it and before I install it :)

I don't know how to weld (well I can point and shoot, but doing a good job that I can trust on the trail is another thing entirely) and while I saw the write ups on gauging the toe-in, I was just going to take it over to the ORW local to me and have them do a full alignment.


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Well if you can only point and shoot then consider getting a bolt on one and maybe welding it for extra reinforcement? Or bolt it on and drive to a friends who can weld and have them reinforce it. I got a synergy bolt on tb bracket on my current axle and I welded it for extra strength. Not as stout as the complete weld on but I've never had an issue. Just my 2c.
 
Finn Sizzle

Finn Sizzle

New member
Sorry for the continued questions, but when I was researching what to get, I recall that a flipping the drag link would not be needed for this combination (high steer and Reid knuckles), so I went back and see this: Requires use of Synergy Suspension Jeep JK Front Trackbar Bracket when flipping the drag link to the top of the knuckle. I took this to assume needed if I were using the factory knuckles, however with the Reid knuckles they are already raised. Is it still needed in the configuration I have listed in my original post?


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
 
silversurfer575

silversurfer575

Member
EVO has a nice drag link flip kit as well as a track bar relocation bracket that requires minor drilling and its bolt on at the axle end. If you want to weld it later for strength, then you can.

from their website:

When lifting your JK 3” or greater, it is highly recommended to correct some of the steering geometry that has been altered with the lift. The EVO JK Draglink Flip Kit does just that and more.

· Raises trackbar mounting location 3” at the axle to help correct roll center and steering angles of a lifted JK.
· Roll center is greatly improved giving better handling of the vehicle on and off road
· Complete bolt-on design that gives greater strength to already prone to failure factory front trackbar bracket
· Comes complete with new forged draglink
· All bracketry made from 3/16” thick laser cut and CNC bent sheetmetal
· All bracketry is finished in a corrosion resistant Black Powdercoat
· Integrated new steering stabilizer location built in to get it up and out of harm’s way above the TieRod

You can do it!
 
Last edited:
Finn Sizzle

Finn Sizzle

New member
13_gecko_rubi said:
Well if you can only point and shoot then consider getting a bolt on one and maybe welding it for extra reinforcement? Or bolt it on and drive to a friends who can weld and have them reinforce it. I got a synergy bolt on tb bracket on my current axle and I welded it for extra strength. Not as stout as the complete weld on but I've never had an issue. Just my 2c.
Click to expand...

That is what I was thinking as well. If needed, I'd bolt it on and then have someone else weld it to reinforce.


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
Finn Sizzle said:
Sorry for the continued questions, but when I was researching what to get, I recall that a flipping the drag link would not be needed for this combination (high steer and Reid knuckles), so I went back and see this: Requires use of Synergy Suspension Jeep JK Front Trackbar Bracket when flipping the drag link to the top of the knuckle. I took this to assume needed if I were using the factory knuckles, however with the Reid knuckles they are already raised. Is it still needed in the configuration I have listed in my original post?


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
Click to expand...

When you install the Reid's you are flipping the drag link. You just don't have to drill your knuckle like stock because the reid is tapered from the top. You still have to raise your trackbar with the bracket though. You need to keep draglink and trackbar parallel or you will get crazy bump steer. Synergy and EVO and others make bolt on track bar brackets.
 
silversurfer575

silversurfer575

Member
Finn Sizzle said:
Sorry for the continued questions, but when I was researching what to get, I recall that a flipping the drag link would not be needed for this combination (high steer and Reid knuckles), so I went back and see this: Requires use of Synergy Suspension Jeep JK Front Trackbar Bracket when flipping the drag link to the top of the knuckle. I took this to assume needed if I were using the factory knuckles, however with the Reid knuckles they are already raised. Is it still needed in the configuration I have listed in my original post?


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
Click to expand...

The TB bracket has nothing to do with the Reids drag link insertion point vs a flip kit using normal OEM knuckles, other than the TB bracket gets the geometry of the track bar and drag link corrected, so you dont get bump steer. Your TB mounts to the axle on one side and the frame on the other. The TB doesnt even touch the knuckles. HTH.
 
Last edited:
Finn Sizzle

Finn Sizzle

New member
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1406606301.390882.jpg

Ok, we are talking about 2 different items now with the trackbar relocation bracket and the drag link flip bracket now, right? Attached is a pic and I color coded what I know it as, so correct me if I am wrong.

The RED circle is the track bar bracket, which is attached to the axle. Is everyone saying that this needs to be upgraded to replace the OE bracket with a new bracket in its place to raise the trackbar to a more even level? This make sense as I wanted to get a bracket so I can relocate the steering stabilizer anyway. I'm guessing I should have gotten this: http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Front-Steering-Correction-Kit-p-16758.html#.U9cdZmK9KSN instead of getting what I did get which was this: http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-High-Steer-Drag-Link-p-16410.html#.U9cpG2K9KSM without the drag link flip adapter. If this is correct, I'll see if I can just get the relocation bracket separate.

The YELLOW line and circle represent the high steer arm where it connects to the top of the knuckle. From what I had believed, the high steer arm would just connect right into the Reid knuckle since it is at a higher point and there would be no need for an additional bracket. But what you guys are saying is that I WOULD still need the drag link flip adapter....but I still can't see it.

If you guys could maybe post a link to the parts I would need to get, maybe after I see what you mean, I can start to put the pieces together visually.

Thanks again folks, really appreciate the lesson.


1995 Jeep Wrangler SE 4.0 MT
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 10th Anniversary
TK5337
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom