Ya, I know this is a dead horse, but I've still not decided

madflyer72

madflyer72

New member
Not going to lie. Since the jeep is still being built...I have no idea how the JKUR15 will ride. Being in MN, I for see myself using the jeep mainly for potholes for the first couple of years lol.

Probably going to run 33's for the first couple of years until I get some more student debt paid off. Goal is to be debt free in two years. Just looking to a lift that I can eventually run 35's and keep a smooth ride so the gf doesn't complain.

I know comfort and jeep hardly run in the same sentence, but I figured I would get this forums opinion.

Basically 2.5in lift, 33-35in tires. I would rather piece this lift together instead of buying a kit
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
madflyer72 said:
Not going to lie. Since the jeep is still being built...I have no idea how the JKUR15 will ride. Being in MN, I for see myself using the jeep mainly for potholes for the first couple of years lol.

Probably going to run 33's for the first couple of years until I get some more student debt paid off. Goal is to be debt free in two years. Just looking to a lift that I can eventually run 35's and keep a smooth ride so the gf doesn't complain.

I know comfort and jeep hardly run in the same sentence, but I figured I would get this forums opinion.

Basically 2.5in lift, 33-35in tires. I would rather piece this lift together instead of buying a kit
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Don't worry, comfort isn't something you have to give up. Why don't you try to get rides in different Jeeps with various lifts so you can get first hand experience?
 
SmokinV10

SmokinV10

Caught the Bug
gripenfelter said:
I would love to just roll over to ORE and have them install a full setup, but Cali is too far for me. :(
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I drove all the way to Cali to have ORE do my DTD system last month. Fantastic work and well worth the long long drive. Before I made that drive, I called around in Austin, Dallas, and home here in Houston. For the handful of shops that had touched a DTD suspension, they wanted more $ in labor and lacked experience with the system, so I drove. If I was doing something similar I would have stayed local. If you're not doing long arms (or if you are doing long arms and a just a bolt on coilover) and want to drive to Houston, there are quite a few great shops here that I know can do it.
 
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TheGrendel

TheGrendel

Active Member
gripenfelter,

Got the MC installed on GIRO Gecko this weekend.

I installed the 2.5 ARB Dual Rate plus the adj Upper Rear Control Arms. The directions leave a lot to be desired in my opinion especially as it relates to setting up the control arms. My front uppers are set too long at the moment so my caster is off. That will get changed this weekend.

After struggling through the front suspension on Saturday, I pulled up the project-jk teraflex suspension installation and the rear went so much better because of it. Best write up and pictures around.

There was no mention of what to do with the front brake lines. Had to google that as well to see people routing behind the shocks.

The directions are clearly for 2007-2011 JKs. There are a number of changes to components that I did not know about. First, you will not have to cut off the upper CA bolt on the passenger side. There is ample room to remove it. However, getting to those UCA upper bolts is a pain. There are heat shields installed that can and will cut you like a fish. lol. Ask me how I know.

Also, the exhaust spacer is a less than desirable way to fix the driveshaft issue. A 1350 is definitely in my future. As for the spacer directions, I was able to cut off the button weld easily enough with an angle grinder but was not able to push the pipe in any farther. So, i pulled the pipe out as far as I could without removing anything else. Then, used a sawzall to cut through it. Pulled the remaining inch or so out of the pipe. After that I was able to push the pipe in farther allowing for the the spacers to go. Really, I am going to have to hit up an exhaust shop and have them do something more permanent at some point. But, this should suffice with regular checks of the bolts, etc.

But, overall the quality of the parts looks great. Most importantly I learned a whole hell of a lot about my Jeep. Doing all of this with a buddy of mine rather than having it installed a shop was a great decision though at the time I was regretting it mightily. Can't wait to fix my caster as the steering is quite flighty at the moment.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
is metalcloak still shipping out welded ends or did they finally switch to forged ends on their control arms?
 
gripenfelter

gripenfelter

New member
SecTxAg06 said:
gripenfelter,

Got the MC installed on GIRO Gecko this weekend.

I installed the 2.5 ARB Dual Rate plus the adj Upper Rear Control Arms. The directions leave a lot to be desired in my opinion especially as it relates to setting up the control arms. My front uppers are set too long at the moment so my caster is off. That will get changed this weekend.

After struggling through the front suspension on Saturday, I pulled up the project-jk teraflex suspension installation and the rear went so much better because of it. Best write up and pictures around.

There was no mention of what to do with the front brake lines. Had to google that as well to see people routing behind the shocks.

The directions are clearly for 2007-2011 JKs. There are a number of changes to components that I did not know about. First, you will not have to cut off the upper CA bolt on the passenger side. There is ample room to remove it. However, getting to those UCA upper bolts is a pain. There are heat shields installed that can and will cut you like a fish. lol. Ask me how I know.

Also, the exhaust spacer is a less than desirable way to fix the driveshaft issue. A 1350 is definitely in my future. As for the spacer directions, I was able to cut off the button weld easily enough with an angle grinder but was not able to push the pipe in any farther. So, i pulled the pipe out as far as I could without removing anything else. Then, used a sawzall to cut through it. Pulled the remaining inch or so out of the pipe. After that I was able to push the pipe in farther allowing for the the spacers to go. Really, I am going to have to hit up an exhaust shop and have them do something more permanent at some point. But, this should suffice with regular checks of the bolts, etc.

But, overall the quality of the parts looks great. Most importantly I learned a whole hell of a lot about my Jeep. Doing all of this with a buddy of mine rather than having it installed a shop was a great decision though at the time I was regretting it mightily. Can't wait to fix my caster as the steering is quite flighty at the moment.
Click to expand...

That's good information to know. I plan on doing driveshafts during the install as well as some synergy components. Did you look into the northridge4x4 bolt kit?

I will be doing my install my self as well, but probably won't have any help (if you consider the wife bringing out something to drink, help). I did the PS Fenders, armor, b-pillar, and AEV hood over the weekend and learned more than I wanted to know about nutserts. Luckily I bought the tool.

I'm really interested in how she handles after you get it aligned.
 
TheGrendel

TheGrendel

Active Member
gripenfelter said:
That's good information to know. I plan on doing driveshafts during the install as well as some synergy components. Did you look into the northridge4x4 bolt kit?

I will be doing my install my self as well, but probably won't have any help (if you consider the wife bringing out something to drink, help). I did the PS Fenders, armor, b-pillar, and AEV hood over the weekend and learned more than I wanted to know about nutserts. Luckily I bought the tool.

I'm really interested in how she handles after you get it aligned.
Click to expand...

no i didn't do the bolt kit. i actually kind of forgot about that part kind of like how i forgot to order the lug nuts from DT. :crazyeyes: it's probably something i'll do in the future.
 
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