AEV JK DualSport XT 2.5 inch lift

JKWrang

New member
Correction. If I understand your post, you would actually only need two adjustable controls arms: front lowers. No need to mess with the back at all on a JKU with a 2.5" kit, or with the front uppers (hell, I've installed the 4" Enforcer on two JKU's and both perform wonderfully on and off road without new rear control arms and without new front upper control arms).

See? I stand corrected. Ive been told if i went with control arms to go front lowers and rear uppers. I assume thats for 2 doors then?

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olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
This is a shot of VENGEANCE which, at the time was running 40" and was only lifted 1" over stock.

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To me, that's what LCG is.

This is a true lcg build. Now the comp cut and evo hood and fenders is what made this possible?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
This is a true lcg build. Now the comp cut and evo hood and fenders is what made this possible?

In truth, a lot more than that was required. Rub at flex is really the LEAST of your concerns when trying to build a true LCG Jeep. While we pushed the rear axle back for a longer wheel base, the front had to be pushed forward as well and a ProRock 44/60 front axle had to be used to help clear things like the engine with all its up travel. Of course, in order to get that kind of up travel, we needed to install coil over towers that had mounting points higher than stock coils and shocks. Just because you call a standard coil and shock lift kit "LCG" doesn't mean it's anything close to being it.
 

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
In truth, a lot more than that was required. Rub at flex is really the LEAST of your concerns when trying to build a true LCG Jeep. While we pushed the rear axle back for a longer wheel base, the front had to be pushed forward as well and a ProRock 44/60 front axle had to be used to help clear things like the engine with all its up travel. Of course, in order to get that kind of up travel, we needed to install coil over towers that had mounting points higher than stock coils and shocks. Just because you call a standard coil and shock lift kit "LCG" doesn't mean it's anything close to being it.

Correct my if Im wrong but all that work was because it was a two door and you stretched it? Evolander is only one inch over stock and it is running 37s. Im guessing that is considered a LCG lift too?

Loading please wait....
 

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
Just so that there's no confusion, Moby hasn't always been what it is today. If something were to come out that was better than what I have now, don't kid yourself, I would probably want to try it out EVEN IF it weren't made by EVO.



Ummm, to be clear, just because people don't like to hear dissenting opinions regarding certain companies DOESN'T mean those companies are being "hated" on. I for one have person have personally installed and tested a myriad of lift kits and only run what I do now because of what I have learned along the way. And let's be honest here, the experience MOST people have when it comes to lift kits is nothing more than what they have chosen to buy. Just trying to add a little perspective here.

Funny, I had this conversation about some house stuff with some friends...they always claim that I recommend what I have and always claim it's the best...so I respond..."did you ever think that I have it BECAUSE it's the best?"
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
Correction. If I understand your post, you would actually only need two adjustable controls arms: front lowers. No need to mess with the back at all on a JKU with a 2.5" kit, or with the front uppers (hell, I've installed the 4" Enforcer on two JKU's and both perform wonderfully on and off road without new rear control arms and without new front upper control arms).

I wheeled jkx with just front lowers on bolt on coil overs ..
 

frenchjk

Caught the Bug
European 2.5 kit owner/my 2 cents of experience with this kit.

When I went for the AEV 2.5 dualsport lift here in Europe I was looking for moderate lift (no Pucks:those stink), firmness, road and trail handling. I wanted 33 tires (285x70r17) on Pintler beadlocks and good all around use (no mall crawling there are none around here:rolleyes2:)

I have to say that I found exactly what was intended. Firmer handling on road - Not harsh - european standards/speed (very often 80+ mph on highways) and mountain roads. Good handling off road on fast trails and moderately rocky and steep mountain trails. I don't run the Brackets because the caster angle isn't dramatically off and the diesel 2.8 is heavier than the V6 3.6 loading the springs a bit more.......(however the AEV Brackets are intended for their kits and it is much more logical to run AEV Brackets on a AEV kit than Rancho's do it all/do it wrong kit).

the only gripe I have is the brackets for the front swaybar links which are stupid....AEV should have supplied longer swaybar links.



PS: I added Northridge's grade 8 bolt kit (not for the Grade 8 but for the mechanical logic of it (even though its a pain having metric and SAE bolts) I'm putting disco's in front and will certainly upgrade the brake lines to longer braided steel type lines.
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
When I went for the AEV 2.5 dualsport lift here in Europe I was looking for moderate lift (no Pucks:those stink), firmness, road and trail handling. I wanted 33 tires (285x70r17) on Pintler beadlocks and good all around use (no mall crawling there are none around here:rolleyes2:)

I have to say that I found exactly what was intended. Firmer handling on road - Not harsh - european standards/speed (very often 80+ mph on highways) and mountain roads. Good handling off road on fast trails and moderately rocky and steep mountain trails. I don't run the Brackets because the caster angle isn't dramatically off and the diesel 2.8 is heavier than the V6 3.6 loading the springs a bit more.......(however the AEV Brackets are intended for their kits and it is much more logical to run AEV Brackets on a AEV kit than Rancho's do it all/do it wrong kit).

the only gripe I have is the brackets for the front swaybar links which are stupid....AEV should have supplied longer swaybar links.



PS: I added Northridge's grade 8 bolt kit (not for the Grade 8 but for the mechanical logic of it (even though its a pain having metric and SAE bolts) I'm putting disco's in front and will certainly upgrade the brake lines to longer braided steel type lines.
80 on the highway ?? No way !
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
Hey piginajeep, clear your inbox. :thumbup:

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Sharkey

Word Ninja
Is this what the AEV brackets are supposed to look like? :thinking:

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1414280772.108339.jpg
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1414280787.864209.jpg

(Not my pics. I just found them through a quick Google search)
 

BChaffins

New member
I recently installed the AEV 3.5 SC kit with all the options on my 2008 2dr. I did it alone and it took me the weekend. The drop brackets are VERY strong. They were upgraded a long time ago from the original design.

My only issue is that I now need to add front and rear bumpers to get it down to 3.5 as I got a good 3.75 or a little more with stock bumpers. I bought direct from AEV as I live about 10 miles from them.
 
I recently installed the AEV 3.5 SC kit with all the options on my 2008 2dr. I did it alone and it took me the weekend. The drop brackets are VERY strong. They were upgraded a long time ago from the original design.

My only issue is that I now need to add front and rear bumpers to get it down to 3.5 as I got a good 3.75 or a little more with stock bumpers. I bought direct from AEV as I live about 10 miles from them.

All they did was L the ends and bolt them together.
 

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
I recently installed the AEV 3.5 SC kit with all the options on my 2008 2dr. I did it alone and it took me the weekend. The drop brackets are VERY strong. They were upgraded a long time ago from the original design.

My only issue is that I now need to add front and rear bumpers to get it down to 3.5 as I got a good 3.75 or a little more with stock bumpers. I bought direct from AEV as I live about 10 miles from them.

They are actually very weak. When you say "strong" did you test them by hand? Since they are not boxed like the ranchos, they have zero lateral strength, which is why you see them bend like the photos above. It is simply an inferior design, and the reason I run rancho units on my jeep VS aev, and the AEV's are cheaper.
 

frenchjk

Caught the Bug
80 it is.....

80 on the highway ?? No way !

in fact that is 128 km/h........speed limit in France is 130 and they (the little blue men) tolerate a 5% margin......the 2.8 diesel does it really easily and the jk is a rail......(remember our asphalts are premium no chip 'n seal or cement slabs with dilatation joints etc...)......and the best part is it does 23 mpg at that speed.

our average cruising speeds (highway) getting from A to B are usually 79 mph. (it drops the fuel usage a bit as prices here are crazy high even if its diesel-cheaper its still 4x the US Price)

But Hey: A JK is not meant for that in the first place; usually A to B is commute and then B to C is offroad:yup: (even though mine is my daily driver.......
 

frenchjk

Caught the Bug
I think this is what you are talking about.

View attachment 106798

As a side note: for a 2.5 lift it is usually acceptable not to run a bracket/ or adjustable front "panhard" rod. Especially if the front is loaded (Heavy bumper, winch, lights, etc etc). (unless a leveling spacer is slid over the coil, but then you are back to square 1)
 
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