christmas dash with abs brake trac esp bas all lights lit after the mud pond

A

Ali

Member
ABS, Traction control and Park Brake lights all came on at the same time and the speedometer shut down, along with the odometer. The check engine light came on and the computer started to throw the following codes:
U1110: Lost Vehicle speed signal
U1120: Lost Wheel distance message
U0120: No Communication with ABS controller on CAN BUS C


it drives me crazy please advice me thanks and regards
 
Canvas JK

Canvas JK

-
Ali said:
ABS, Traction control and Park Brake lights all came on at the same time and the speedometer shut down, along with the odometer. The check engine light came on and the computer started to throw the following codes:
U1110: Lost Vehicle speed signal
U1120: Lost Wheel distance message
U0120: No Communication with ABS controller on CAN BUS C


it drives me crazy please advice me thanks and regards
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Have you tried disconnecting the batter for a couple of minutes and reconnecting to see if that clears the codes?

I would also check the sensor wires at the wheels to make sure you did not break one.
 
A

Ali

Member
Canvas JK said:
Have you tried disconnecting the batter for a couple of minutes and reconnecting to see if that clears the codes?

I would also check the sensor wires at the wheels to make sure you did not break one.
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yes it erased the codes but after a trip and no more then 10 metres it came back where is the ground wire located for the abs
 
TheDuff

TheDuff

New member
Sounds like a wheel speed sensor to me. The abs also uses the wheel speed sensors and that's where I would check first

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computeruser6

computeruser6

New member
A failed wheel speed sensor will not cause the brake fault and malfunction indicator light to turn on nor will it cause the speedometer to fail. I've had a wheel speed sensor fail and it causes the ABS and traction control lights to turn on, not any of the other symptoms listed. As long as one wheel speed sensor works the speedometer should still function. There are also different codes for improbable or out of range wheel speeds. It is possible for a short in the CAN to cause a loss of communication with various components. I recently had a problem where: numerous lights illuminated on my dashboard, the engine would turn-over but not start, and when connected to a code reader all of the codes amounted to communication was lost with various peripheral components. I had a failed Totally Integrated Power Module and the dealer refused to honor the warranty and I paid about $1,000 to fix the problem. There are numerous complaints of faulty TIPM's on Chrysler vehicles and a class action lawsuit against Chrysler for TIPM faults. I wish I had known that before buying a JK. I pray that you don't have the same failed part I did.
 
A

Ali

Member
computeruser6 said:
A failed wheel speed sensor will not cause the brake fault and malfunction indicator light to turn on nor will it cause the speedometer to fail. I've had a wheel speed sensor fail and it causes the ABS and traction control lights to turn on, not any of the other symptoms listed. As long as one wheel speed sensor works the speedometer should still function. There are also different codes for improbable or out of range wheel speeds. It is possible for a short in the CAN to cause a loss of communication with various components. I recently had a problem where: numerous lights illuminated on my dashboard, the engine would turn-over but not start, and when connected to a code reader all of the codes amounted to communication was lost with various peripheral components. I had a failed Totally Integrated Power Module and the dealer refused to honor the warranty and I paid about $1,000 to fix the problem. There are numerous complaints of faulty TIPM's on Chrysler vehicles and a class action lawsuit against Chrysler for TIPM faults. I wish I had known that before buying a JK. I pray that you don't have the same failed part I did.
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what was the cause of the fail do you mean tipm which is under fuse box and why do they fail?
 
computeruser6

computeruser6

New member
Are there any other fault codes? When you say your odometer failed, in what way? What is your odometer displaying? I look up the fault codes in alldatadiy.com and the possible causes common to all three fault codes are an open or short in the CAN C bus or the Anti-Lock Brake Module. I could post up more information about it from the service manual if you so desire. I'll post up more about the TIPM tomorrow.
 
A

Ali

Member
computeruser6 said:
Are there any other fault codes? When you say your odometer failed, in what way? What is your odometer displaying? I look up the fault codes in alldatadiy.com and the possible causes common to all three fault codes are an open or short in the CAN C bus or the Anti-Lock Brake Module. I could post up more information about it from the service manual if you so desire. I'll post up more about the TIPM tomorrow.
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thanks for the support i managed to fix it it was the ground wire wich was loose:mad:
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
that's great! the TIPM is expensive and in my opinion poorly designed as common relays cannot be replaced.

My back door power locks failed and requires the TIPM to be replaced - the relay for the rear doors in the bottom layer of the TIPM - $1000, I have manual lock/unlock back doors now.
 
A

Ali

Member
thanks for olram30 and Jeeep and thanks for this great Forum yes its gone i used my Maxidas to erase the passed codes and no more cel :clap2::thumb:
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Reviving an old thread. I was heading up to run the Rubicon recently. On the highway, the cruise control suddenly shut off and the ABS and ESP/BAS lights came on. Jeep otherwise drove normally, so I kept going. On the trail, once in 4WD, the Jeep would drop in and out of limp mode. I pulled the J6 and J7 fuses (ABS/TCS) and that stopped the limp mode issue, although the speedometer, odometer, and some other things stopped working. It also caused the check engine and parking brake lights to come on. The battery light also came on periodically. I pulled the following codes: U1110, U1120, and P0501.

Once or twice while on the trail I tried putting the fuses back in, but the limp mode issue was still there, so I finished out the run and the rest of my vacation without the fuses. Aside from a couple of instances of limp mode, I was able to drive the 400 miles home without serious problems.

When I got home I looked up the codes and learned the following:

U1110
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the Controlled Area Network (CAN) C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets The PCM/ECM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus.

U1120
The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the PCM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake System Module over the CAN C bus.


P0501
means that the vehicle's speed as read by the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is outside of the expected range (too high or low for example). The VSS input is used by the vehicle's main computer called a PCM/ECM powertrain/engine control module along with other inputs for proper operation of the vehicle systems.

Since I replaced all the wheel speed sensors just a couple of months ago, it seems probable that the issue is the ABS module, which supposedly needs to be calibrated by a dealer. Before I headed to the dealer, I put the J6 and J7 fuses back in, thinking I might have to take some quiet neighborhood streets and fight limp mode to get there. Wouldn’t you know it, all the dash lights went off and the Jeep drove normally. No problems at all.

I explained all this to the dealer and asked them to check out the ABS module. They called back today and told me their tech thinks the problem is worn unit bearings, which they proposed to replace for $1100, parts and labor. Aside from the ridiculous price (I can get both bearings for about $200 and do the work myself), I’m skeptical that worn unit bearings could be the problem. Anyone else experienced the problem I had? Any reason the believe the dealership tech is correct or full of BS?


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jdofmemi

jdofmemi

Active Member
I know when I had a worn unit bearing, I had the same dash lights and symptoms, so that part is feasible.

It also sounds like a good excuse to cut the cord to the stability control, and put it on a switch. I have lights on the dash all the time, but no performance issues, and the Jeep don't piss me off on corners, onramps, or anywhere else.

The only side effect I found I didn't like was that it will upshift while going down a steep grade, but that is easily countered by slipping the transmission into manual mode.
 
BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
jdofmemi said:
I know when I had a worn unit bearing, I had the same dash lights and symptoms, so that part is feasible.

It also sounds like a good excuse to cut the cord to the stability control, and put it on a switch. I have lights on the dash all the time, but no performance issues, and the Jeep don't piss me off on corners, onramps, or anywhere else.

The only side effect I found I didn't like was that it will upshift while going down a steep grade, but that is easily countered by slipping the transmission into manual mode.
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When you have the shit turned off with the switch, does your cruise control work or you have to give that up too?



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
BaddestCross said:
When you have the shit turned off with the switch, does your cruise control work or you have to give that up too?



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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fiend said:
Have the same question. Also what about the speedometer, odometer, tripometer, and mileage indicator? I lost all those things when I had the fuses out.


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No, cruise does not work. All of the other gauges function including the ones mentioned above. I put this switch in last Fall and haven't turned it back on once. I can live without cruise - even on the trip out and back.
 
jdofmemi

jdofmemi

Active Member
Ddays said:
No, cruise does not work. All of the other gauges function including the ones mentioned above. I put this switch in last Fall and haven't turned it back on once. I can live without cruise - even on the trip out and back.
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☝️This☝️

I can turn all of it back on, recycle the key, and cruise works, as long as nothing is wrong otherwise that would keep it from working.

And now you can spin out, do donuts, and other juvenile acts🤣🤣, plus actually lock the tires in sand, snow, dust, etc so you stop instead of doing a slow roll.
 
MericaMade

MericaMade

Active Member
BaddestCross said:
When you have the shit turned off with the switch, does your cruise control work or you have to give that up too?



--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...
Nope won't work, as soon as you hit the switch it shuts off. You have to restart jeep to clear light and then it will work again. On the way home from Moab my passenger wheel bearing kept giving me issues and throwing dash light on and shutting off cruise control. Then out of no where lights would go off and cruise control would work again. I'm currently replacing both fronts now.

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