Rear axle

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Oh no I'm not??? Omg .... What ever will I do???

OMG... I don't know!!! Normal mature adults just leave but then, you being the self-righteous type who likes to preach at people , I have a feeling you'll stick around for a while. :rolleyes2:
 

StrizzyChris

New member
NOW...to get this thread back on topic, the OP may want to look TO THIS LINK for more information.

That's a thread started by Greg a couple years back and if you look down to post #10 There are also some pics I shared to give further clarification on how the axle and their shafts differ.
 

Gadget

Caught the Bug
NOW...to get this thread back on topic, the OP may want to look TO THIS LINK for more information.

That's a thread started by Greg a couple years back and if you look down to post #10 There are also some pics I shared to give further clarification on how the axle and their shafts differ.

Thanks, pictures make life so much easier. So is the factory d44 full or semi?
 

StrizzyChris

New member
Thanks, pictures make life so much easier. So is the factory d44 full or semi?

You can always tell if an axle(like a 1-ton truck) is a full float by looking at the end of the axle. If the center section(inside of the lugs) has bolts around the center of it like the pic below, then it is a full float.

0996b43f80208828.gif


14_Bolt_Full-Floating_Axle.jpg
 
Last edited:

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Now back to the topic on hand, this thread is really informative! I learned so much about a full float axle and semi float because of the posts and the video!
 

StrizzyChris

New member
Thank you to whoever cleaned up the bullshit in this thread. Nothing pisses me off more than people shitting on an informative thread when the OP is wanting to learn! :clap2:
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thank you to whoever cleaned up the bullshit in this thread. Nothing pisses me off more than people shitting on an informative thread when the OP is wanting to learn! :clap2:

Sorry about that, I'm out of town and trying to do all this on a phone.

Please resume with the topic at hand. :yup:
 

Speeddmn

New member
So minus some of the little things, what are the major pros/cons of running a PR60/80 vs a shaved 14 bolt? Also which one would be cheaper? I would think the 14 Bolt is wider, so shorten the tubes/custom axles etc.
 

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
So minus some of the little things, what are the major pros/cons of running a PR60/80 vs a shaved 14 bolt? Also which one would be cheaper? I would think the 14 Bolt is wider, so shorten the tubes/custom axles etc.

A con to these old 1970's rusted up axles are people still have to truss them.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
So minus some of the little things, what are the major pros/cons of running a PR60/80 vs a shaved 14 bolt? Also which one would be cheaper? I would think the 14 Bolt is wider, so shorten the tubes/custom axles etc.

There's really just a lot of work that needs to go into making them compatible. If you are a shade tree mechanic who can wrench, but not really a fabricator or welder, then its quite a project. The moment that you are required to pay a mechanic/welder labor to do all the fabrication involved to make them work, it would be around the same cost as buying a brand new and ready to be bolted on, and much stronger axle with higher spline count than the older axles.

If you have all the skills to do all the work yourself, then a D60 and 14 bolt axle are great options that will be cheaper. The aftermarket has responded to all these D60s though, and its hard to find one of the old kingpins for under a grand.
 
Top Bottom