Axle question

hbkid22

Member
So a question. I know the best route is a PR44 but I have a sport and the rear is not a D44 as the Rubicons and I don't have a locker. The plan was to put in an ARB but if I run across a pair of rubi axles would anyone recommend that route? It would give me a rear locker plus big enough axles for 5.13s and obviously c gussets for 37s on a 2dr. Still looking at the PR but almost thinking this option. Would allow me to get new gears, fairly new axles, locker and possibly an ARB font locker, adjustable control arms for the price of one PR (or close to it).
 
So a question. I know the best route is a PR44 but I have a sport and the rear is not a D44 as the Rubicons and I don't have a locker. The plan was to put in an ARB but if I run across a pair of rubi axles would anyone recommend that route? It would give me a rear locker plus big enough axles for 5.13s and obviously c gussets for 37s on a 2dr. Still looking at the PR but almost thinking this option. Would allow me to get new gears, fairly new axles, locker and possibly an ARB font locker, adjustable control arms for the price of one PR (or close to it).

I would stick with what you have and save your money for the PR44. Do not waste your money on Rubi Axles the amount you would pay for them you can get a PR44. Again that is JMHO.

R/
Will
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
So a question. I know the best route is a PR44 but I have a sport and the rear is not a D44 as the Rubicons and I don't have a locker. The plan was to put in an ARB but if I run across a pair of rubi axles would anyone recommend that route? It would give me a rear locker plus big enough axles for 5.13s and obviously c gussets for 37s on a 2dr. Still looking at the PR but almost thinking this option. Would allow me to get new gears, fairly new axles, locker and possibly an ARB font locker, adjustable control arms for the price of one PR (or close to it).

Your rear axle is a true D44 just like the rear on a rubi. The benefit to a sport 44 is that the axle shafts are the same length so you only need to carry one spare.

What I did is I regeared my axles to 5.13's (like your thinking) and ONLY locked the rear axle with an ARB. I only did the rear because your already pushing the limits of the 5.13's in the d30. Then save your money on axle shafts and stuff for the front and put that towards the Pr44. Only upgrade the front of something breaks or look for a cheap stock replacement.

In conclusion, regear, lock the rear, gusset the front C's, save for a pr44 front, and only upgrade parts if something breaks.
 

hbkid22

Member
Your rear axle is a true D44 just like the rear on a rubi. The benefit to a sport 44 is that the axle shafts are the same length so you only need to carry one spare.

What I did is I regeared my axles to 5.13's (like your thinking) and ONLY locked the rear axle with an ARB. I only did the rear because your already pushing the limits of the 5.13's in the d30. Then save your money on axle shafts and stuff for the front and put that towards the Pr44. Only upgrade the front of something breaks or look for a cheap stock replacement.

In conclusion, regear, lock the rear, gusset the front C's, save for a pr44 front, and only upgrade parts if something breaks.

I didn't think D44 were in the rear on a sport. Good to know. And I have been planning on going the route you mentioned but when the question came up if I wanted rubi axles possibly for cheap I started to think about that but I think I will stick to the PR44 route. Get the ARB and gears now and hope it lasts at least a year or so. :)
 
I didn't think D44 were in the rear on a sport. Good to know. And I have been planning on going the route you mentioned but when the question came up if I wanted rubi axles possibly for cheap I started to think about that but I think I will stick to the PR44 route. Get the ARB and gears now and hope it lasts at least a year or so. :)

The biggest thing with the D30 upfront is to know that it is your weakest link and to go easy on the skinny pedal.
 

hbkid22

Member
Your rear axle is a true D44 just like the rear on a rubi. The benefit to a sport 44 is that the axle shafts are the same length so you only need to carry one spare.

What I did is I regeared my axles to 5.13's (like your thinking) and ONLY locked the rear axle with an ARB. I only did the rear because your already pushing the limits of the 5.13's in the d30. Then save your money on axle shafts and stuff for the front and put that towards the Pr44. Only upgrade the front of something breaks or look for a cheap stock replacement.

In conclusion, regear, lock the rear, gusset the front C's, save for a pr44 front, and only upgrade parts if something breaks.

Plus if you are running that in Knuckles I think RHINO can handle it. Knuckles is similar to what I want. Still jealous. :)
 

hbkid22

Member
The biggest thing with the D30 upfront is to know that it is your weakest link and to go easy on the skinny pedal.

Yeah that is what I hear and I try. I really need new gears as it's hard to go easy on the pedal when you have to floor it to get it moving sometimes.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Your rear axle is a true D44 just like the rear on a rubi. The benefit to a sport 44 is that the axle shafts are the same length so you only need to carry one spare.

What I did is I regeared my axles to 5.13's (like your thinking) and ONLY locked the rear axle with an ARB. I only did the rear because your already pushing the limits of the 5.13's in the d30. Then save your money on axle shafts and stuff for the front and put that towards the Pr44. Only upgrade the front of something breaks or look for a cheap stock replacement.

In conclusion, regear, lock the rear, gusset the front C's, save for a pr44 front, and only upgrade parts if something breaks.

This ^^^. Well said.
 

hbkid22

Member
Cool. Thanks guys. I will stick to my guns and go with the PR44. Hopefully February I can get gears, gussets and ARB. Just in time for MOAB trek. :)
 

hbkid22

Member
Last question. Would I need new shafts with the gears or could I use the existing ones and just upgrade if/when they break? Will the spline count be the same even though the gears are bigger?
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Last question. Would I need new shafts with the gears or could I use the existing ones and just upgrade if/when they break? Will the spline count be the same even though the gears are bigger?

You can reuse the stock shafts. It's what I currently run. A stronger set up would be to upgrade to 35 spline shafts and a 35 spline ARB but that comes at a premium
 

jknikos

Member
Last question. Would I need new shafts with the gears or could I use the existing ones and just upgrade if/when they break? Will the spline count be the same even though the gears are bigger?
Yes you can. In order to put a higher spline axleshaft you will need to change the defferential itself, not only the gears :beer:

Btw IMO 5.13s is too low for a manual, even with 37s. Auto is a defferent story.
 
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hbkid22

Member
Yes you can. In order to put a higher spline axleshaft you will need to change the defferential itself, not only the gears :beer:

Btw IMO 5.13s is too low for a manual, even with 37s. Auto is a defferent story.

I've heard that and I was going to run 4.88s but everyone kept saying 5.13s. It's still up in the air and I have a couple months to finalize so we will see.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
LOL!! Are you kidding? Back when I was still running a 3.8 like you guys have now, I ran 5.13's with 35" tires and LOVED the extra power I got from them. Sure, they ran on the high side of the RPM range at highway speeds but with a set of 37's, they were a PERFECT match - like running stock again. It would have KILLED me to run 4.88's with 37's even with the manual I had. But hey, that's just me. The only reason to NOT run 5.13's is IF you are running a Dana 30 as that will leave you with a pinion that is really really small.
 
LOL!! Are you kidding? Back when I was still running a 3.8 like you guys have now, I ran 5.13's with 35" tires and LOVED the extra power I got from them. Sure, they ran on the high side of the RPM range at highway speeds but with a set of 37's, they were a PERFECT match - like running stock again. It would have KILLED me to run 4.88's with 37's even with the manual I had. But hey, that's just me. The only reason to NOT run 5.13's is IF you are running a Dana 30 as that will leave you with a pinion that is really really small.

Whoops I'm running 37s with 5.13 on a dana 30 😳
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Whoops I'm running 37s with 5.13 on a dana 30 

LOL!! Never said that your axle would self-destruct just because of us, just that the reason to NOT do it is because it'll leave you with a very small pinion and will be a very real weak point. If you're running an open diff, you should be okay especially being that you're down in TX. Otherwise, 5.13 is the ratio you want with 37's and more so with a 3.8L.
 

hbkid22

Member
I do need to think ahead so that is why I will prolly go with with 5.13s. I have been jumping back and forth to much. With 35s it might be a little much but ultimately I want 37s so I should plan ahead. The chart shows 4.88s with 35s on a manual goes back to stock but I hope within a year I will be on 37s. Thanks for all the input and advice. Still learning all this as I go.
 
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