Made my own Mikeybilt Tailgate Table/Molle Rack!

ArmyofMike

New member
Wave to All!

I have been going back and forth on getting a Smittybilt GEAR Tailgate holder, but also wanted a table for my tailgate. However, spending $65 on the GEAR system and another $100+ for a table setup is beyond my financial capacity...and I'm cheap. So...I built my own.

Many times, when my family and I go on trails, in the snow, or camping, the kids climb in the back to hang out/eat and I'm left standing at the back. Too many times, I've had a size 3 in my samich and I'm tired of it!! So, my angst led me to this solution.

I built the "Mikeybilt Tailgate Module" out of everyday parts I got from local stores. Overall cost was around $25-$30 depending on what you have already.

What I got for the build was:
1) 11.8" x 23.8" black shelf ($6 at Home Depot, black)
2) Magnetic strip ($5 at Harbor Freight)
3) 2 hinges ($3 at Harbor Freight)
4) #8 finishing washers and screws ($8 at Orchard, 3 washer bags of 8=24 total)
5) 9' of 2" webbing ($5 at REI)
And I had the velcro, 550 paracord, zipties, and patches

Everything together ( I did not use the Neodymium magnets after all):
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Shelf:
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Magnetic Strip:
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Washers:
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First, I mounted the hinges to the bottom of the shelf on equal sides to make it horizontal. Then, I drilled two holes on both sides for the 550 paracord to go through. I used zipties to mount the hinges to the topmost vent slit on the tailgate. I want to make sure this will be usefull before I actually drill holes in my tailgate. The zipties are quite strong and they do not rattle once tight. I tied the paracord to the bottom side of the shelf equally on both sides and affixed it under the black plastic cover on the tailgate.
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Next, I centered and attached the magnetic strip on the top of the shelf. I put velcro on the magnetic strip to help with rattling and ease of getting it off the tailgate (it's quite strong).
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The magnetic strip contacts the tailgate metal just above the black plastic molding. This holds quite strong and the table rests a bit on the black plastic...perfect!
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Then, I got my 2" black webbing and cut three equal pieces and burned the ends.
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I then drilled equal holes on both sides of the board starting at 4.5", to 9.5" from the tailgate side of the table. This is where the screws/washers will go to hold down the webbing:
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Then, I doubled up on the webbing and drilled the screws/washers through the webbing into the pilot holes. Two screws per webbing an inch apart.
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Next, I fastened a few more washers to the front/bottom of the table to add more stability, tautness and support.
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After this, I attached some molle pouches, a strip of velcro for my patches (we don' need no stink'in patches!)
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It is very sturdy and strong and does not rattle at all. I'm pretty stoked with my $25 ingeniuty!

If you want more pics, please ask!
 

ArmyofMike

New member
Nice job!

Are you planning to fasten the hinges with screws or just keep the zip ties?

This is Mikeybilt Mod.1, HA! I wanted to make sure it was in a good location/useful/didn't rattle like crazy before I fastened it. However, driving around with it for a day and a half, it is on there very well, so I will go ahead and screw it into the tailgate in the near future. If I raise it 1"-1.5" to have sheet metal to screw to above the vents, it will still allow room on top for the magnetic strip to contact metal and more importantly allow for my hardtop rear window to close.

I will have to redo the 550 paracord braces if I raise it the inch or two, but that will take 2 minutes. I may actually braid some 550 for the hangers to make it look all fancy and spiffy similar to my grab handles with ACU core/OD Green outer: This will be part of Mod.2! :thumb:
20141113_221343_zpsa2ifpkxm.jpg
 

MattAlpha

Caught the Bug
This is Mikeybilt Mod.1, HA! I wanted to make sure it was in a good location/useful/didn't rattle like crazy before I fastened it. However, driving around with it for a day and a half, it is on there very well, so I will go ahead and screw it into the tailgate in the near future. If I raise it 1"-1.5" to have sheet metal to screw to above the vents, it will still allow room on top for the magnetic strip to contact metal and more importantly allow for my hardtop rear window to close.

I will have to redo the 550 paracord braces if I raise it the inch or two, but that will take 2 minutes. I may actually braid some 550 for the hangers to make it look all fancy and spiffy similar to my grab handles with ACU core/OD Green outer: This will be part of Mod.2! :thumb:
20141113_221343_zpsa2ifpkxm.jpg

I thought you would, but you never know. Seems to work well with just the zip ties and then there is no chance for bi-metallic corrosion.

I really like your use of 550 cord to support the table top. I have been planning to do this too, but using double straight bar type support. The 550 cord is much simpler, will not rust and will not cause a rattle when the table is stowed. Plus I have a ton of 550 cord already.

Thanks again for sharing,
Matt
 

ArmyofMike

New member
Nice job! I may have to steal part of your idea if you don't mind. 

Steal away! Just let us see what you create!

I thought you would, but you never know. Seems to work well with just the zip ties and then there is no chance for bi-metallic corrosion.

I really like your use of 550 cord to support the table top. I have been planning to do this too, but using double straight bar type support. The 550 cord is much simpler, will not rust and will not cause a rattle when the table is stowed. Plus I have a ton of 550 cord already.

Thanks again for sharing,
Matt

I thought of metal arms too, but just like you thought of too many moving parts and rattling. I like a quiet ride!
Thanks for feedback and kudos!
 

RjSkippy

New member
I bought a tailgate cover but wish I had seen this first! Awesome idea! I like the zip ties too for the hinge and the table, I may try that for camping.
 
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