Dana 44 out of a rubicon

AcB-jk

AcB-jk

New member
I'm buying a Dana 44 soon for my 2011 jku and a few questions arose. Will that Dana 44 just bolt right in or while it have to be fabricated? Will I run into any problems with the transfer case because the rubicons have different transfer cases? Will I run into any major problems will installing ? I feel stupid asking these questions but id rather look stupid than waste 2k.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
AcB-jk said:
I'm buying a Dana 44 soon for my 2011 jku and a few questions arose. Will that Dana 44 just bolt right in or while it have to be fabricated? Will I run into any problems with the transfer case because the rubicons have different transfer cases? Will I run into any major problems will installing ? I feel stupid asking these questions but id rather look stupid than waste 2k.
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Yes it will bolt right in.

No you will not have any transfer case issues as long as the gears are the same front and rear.

Only issue is the DS may not be the right length going from the d30 to the 44 but I'm not sure. Someone please correct me.

I honestly wouldn't waste your money on a d44. It's the same tubs and knuckles as the 30 so it's still prone to breaking in the same spot. Your better off running your 30 till it breaks and/or you can afford a stronger housing like a ProRock 44.
 
KingCopperhead

KingCopperhead

New member
Not sure about your model year, but i installed a Rubicon Dana44 into my 14 JK with zero issues.

Btw, the housing itself is essentially the same as the D30. But it isn't a *total* waste of money. The internals are stronger, and it should have an e locker. A pro rock housing is around 2k with no locker, gears, or axle shafts. Figure 5-6k for a pro rock ready to bolt in.

If you can afford the pro rock, by all means get it. If not, the Dana 44 isn't going to crack and bend the first time you hit a parking block at the mall :) gusset the c's to give it some strength and if you ever do bend it you'll have the internals for a pro rock ready to go.
 
EZ-E

EZ-E

New member
cozdude said:
Yes it will bolt right in.

No you will not have any transfer case issues as long as the gears are the same front and rear.

Only issue is the DS may not be the right length going from the d30 to the 44 but I'm not sure. Someone please correct me.

I honestly wouldn't waste your money on a d44. It's the same tubs and knuckles as the 30 so it's still prone to breaking in the same spot. Your better off running your 30 till it breaks and/or you can afford a stronger housing like a ProRock 44.
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Aren't the knuckles/stub shafts on the PR44 the same ones as a stock rubi44? Unless you get aftermarket ones...Or no?

I also have a Rubi44 in the front end of my sport with 37's and see no need to swap it out for a PR44 until the day it breaks. Then, absolutely.
 
AcB-jk

AcB-jk

New member
KingCopperhead said:
Not sure about your model year, but i installed a Rubicon Dana44 into my 14 JK with zero issues.

Btw, the housing itself is essentially the same as the D30. But it isn't a *total* waste of money. The internals are stronger, and it should have an e locker. A pro rock housing is around 2k with no locker, gears, or axle shafts. Figure 5-6k for a pro rock ready to bolt in.

If you can afford the pro rock, by all means get it. If not, the Dana 44 isn't going to crack and bend the first time you hit a parking block at the mall :) gusset the c's to give it some strength and if you ever do bend it you'll have the internals for a pro rock ready to go.
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Model year is a 2011 jku sport.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
cozdude said:
Yes it will bolt right in.

No you will not have any transfer case issues as long as the gears are the same front and rear.

Only issue is the DS may not be the right length going from the d30 to the 44 but I'm not sure. Someone please correct me.

I honestly wouldn't waste your money on a d44. It's the same tubs and knuckles as the 30 so it's still prone to breaking in the same spot. Your better off running your 30 till it breaks and/or you can afford a stronger housing like a ProRock 44.
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It's the same at the axle end. Only thing that matters is manual or auto of the jeep your installing it in.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
AcB-jk said:
So I'll run into issues if the axle came from an auto and is going into a manual ?
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2013rubirick said:
Drive shaft will be different length.
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AcB-jk said:
That won't matter to me at that point I'll be getting aftermarket driveshafts
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No it won't matter. Like I said only your jeep matters. If he had a manual and you have an auto it won't matter because the aftermarket shaft is for your auto not his manual.

Axle is the same, manual to auto, transfer case is different. Your not swapping transfer case so it doesn't matter what he has.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
EZ-E said:
Aren't the knuckles/stub shafts on the PR44 the same ones as a stock rubi44? Unless you get aftermarket ones...Or no?

I also have a Rubi44 in the front end of my sport with 37's and see no need to swap it out for a PR44 until the day it breaks. Then, absolutely.
Click to expand...

Yes my mistake, I ment axle C's are the same on the 30 and 44. The stub shafts and knuckles are the same since you reuse them if you get it with chromoly inners.

OverlanderJK said:
It's the same at the axle end. Only thing that matters is manual or auto of the jeep your installing it in.
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Thank you for clarifying. I knew the auto vs Manuel difference but wasn't sure about the housing if it was the same length or not.
 
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