Advice needed

Canvas JK

Canvas JK

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gafirefighter20 said:
We have some progress. I'm dropping the Jeep off Monday. Chrysler wants will either put offset balljoints or replace the axle depending on what the alignment specs read. I made sure to ask the question that if balljoints are used will they replace them when they wear out and the camber issue returns. When I mentioned that the service manager agreed that axle replacement is the only permanent fix. I have a 3/4" spacer from RE for the front to correct my rake, RK adjustable control arms, RK adjustable track bar, 4 Bilstein 5100's, and artec gussets all waiting to be installed when this mess is finally over. This has been a ride for sure.
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If they warranty the axle see about upgrading to a PR44! Worth a shot asking.
 
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gafirefighter20

New member
After the hassle I went through with just getting this replaced I'm not holding my breath. I really don't have the extra coin to throw with it either. I will just reinforce and strengthen the 30 for now. I'm not a hard core wheeler. I just want an axle that is straight.
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
It hasn't been mentioned but what air pressure are you running? A suspicion would be that the dealership would probably fill the 35's with 37 psi. Pressure for stock tires. That's too high for 35's and could cause handling and wear issues. Just my 2 cents.
 
Dean454

Dean454

New member
Sorry to hear this I hope they take care of you properly. So disappointing and after a while you don't event want to drive the damn thing. Best of luck
 
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MrHooah04

New member
I doubt the STt's would wear out that quickly. My set of 33s have 65k on them and still have 10k left. Not to mention I've had that pull you describe for the last 10k. Just make sure you're rotating them on a regular basis

I do see your frustration though
 
Jeep2010

Jeep2010

New member
I'm a salesman at a jeep dealership and I get your frustration. I see it all the time but there is always a solution. My area does a lot of trucks and we lift some of our ram 1500s and jk. Getting to the point, whenever a customer has a problem with the lift or tires. We ask them to give us some time to find it. If we can't. We will bring it to the company we bought the lift and tires from. We are a lot better at getting free work done from a company rather than asking for money from a customer when they shouldn't. Ask them to have the other company check it out. If they have done business they will want to keep it that way. I'm very sorry all of this happened to you jk. I wish I could help. But idk about the tires. Mine is a DD still so I ran a set of 35" wranglers and like them. Good on the street and good off road. I have 8-9,000 miles on them and they are wearing great.
 
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gafirefighter20

New member
jesse0920 said:
It hasn't been mentioned but what air pressure are you running? A suspicion would be that the dealership would probably fill the 35's with 37 psi. Pressure for stock tires. That's too high for 35's and could cause handling and wear issues. Just my 2 cents.
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You are correct. The originally had them at 37 psi. I have been running them at 30 psi since October.

MrHooah04 said:
I doubt the STt's would wear out that quickly. My set of 33s have 65k on them and still have 10k left. Not to mention I've had that pull you describe for the last 10k. Just make sure you're rotating them on a regular basis

I do see your frustration though
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I rotate them every 3000. The outer half of two of the tires are at 8/32 at 8000 miles. I found it hard to believe too. Good to know that when everything is right they will last.

Jeep2010 said:
I'm a salesman at a jeep dealership and I get your frustration. I see it all the time but there is always a solution. My area does a lot of trucks and we lift some of our ram 1500s and jk. Getting to the point, whenever a customer has a problem with the lift or tires. We ask them to give us some time to find it. If we can't. We will bring it to the company we bought the lift and tires from. We are a lot better at getting free work done from a company rather than asking for money from a customer when they shouldn't. Ask them to have the other company check it out. If they have done business they will want to keep it that way. I'm very sorry all of this happened to you jk. I wish I could help. But idk about the tires. Mine is a DD still so I ran a set of 35" wranglers and like them. Good on the street and good off road. I have 8-9,000 miles on them and they are wearing great.
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Thats the same process I went through. I originally went to the dealer which is when we found the camber issue. The service department told me that it was just a part of having a lifted Jeep. When I didn't just take that and go home thats when they sent me back to the shop that put the lift on. They tried to give me the same line that it just comes with the territory. After my argument with them, they said just to watch it and see what happens. Now that the tires have worn and I have complained for 3 months they finally want to listen. I am completely underwhelmed by the shop they use. They just do lifts and tires for this group of dealerships and are not a true off road shop. But I was stick with them if I wanted anything replaced under warranty.
 
Peej

Peej

New member
Sorry to hear about your stealer ship woes. I had the same problem. I have a 2011 with the same lift. I didn't buy it with the lift but had the same issue with the stock tires on it. The remedy for me was a set of caster correction brackets from AEV. These brackets bring your control arms back into factory specs thus bringing your caster back into spec. This made all the difference in the world! It now drives and rides better than stock and they were only $99. I believe RE now builds them. I am going to be going up to a 3.5 in. lift soon and will still be able to use the same brackets, they adjust up to a 4.5 in. lift. Thought this might help, it's a lot cheaper than new adj. control arms, I bought the lower adj. arms and felt every bump in the road, they took all the impact through the frame instead of the coil springs. The correction brackets work far better. Good luck! When you get it worked out come to Colorado and have some fun with your new toy.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Peej said:
Sorry to hear about your stealer ship woes. I had the same problem. I have a 2011 with the same lift. I didn't buy it with the lift but had the same issue with the stock tires on it. The remedy for me was a set of caster correction brackets from AEV. These brackets bring your control arms back into factory specs thus bringing your caster back into spec. This made all the difference in the world! It now drives and rides better than stock and they were only $99. I believe RE now builds them. I am going to be going up to a 3.5 in. lift soon and will still be able to use the same brackets, they adjust up to a 4.5 in. lift. Thought this might help, it's a lot cheaper than new adj. control arms, I bought the lower adj. arms and felt every bump in the road, they took all the impact through the frame instead of the coil springs. The correction brackets work far better. Good luck! When you get it worked out come to Colorado and have some fun with your new toy.
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So you recommend aev drop brackets over adjustable lower control arms? How do they perform off road? Do them hanging down or flexing concern you?
 
darthmurdoch

darthmurdoch

New member
AEV makes good stuff and I considered using those brackets but realized what's the point of raising the suspension if the brackets hang down. You really haven't created anymore clearance.
 
Peej

Peej

New member
I haven't noticed them being anymore of a hindrance, their not located in an area that makes that much of a clearance issue. They've worked in Moab,Las Cruces, Ouray and all over Colorado.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Peej said:
I haven't noticed them being anymore of a hindrance, their not located in an area that makes that much of a clearance issue. They've worked in Moab,Las Cruces, Ouray and all over Colorado.
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My factory points are already bashed up, by the way, did you mean las Cruces New Mexico?
 
Peej

Peej

New member
Yep. Now don't get me wrong, mine have some trail rash, but the handling of the jeep is worth it.
 
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gafirefighter20

New member
Peej said:
Sorry to hear about your stealer ship woes. I had the same problem. I have a 2011 with the same lift. I didn't buy it with the lift but had the same issue with the stock tires on it. The remedy for me was a set of caster correction brackets from AEV. These brackets bring your control arms back into factory specs thus bringing your caster back into spec. This made all the difference in the world! It now drives and rides better than stock and they were only $99. I believe RE now builds them. I am going to be going up to a 3.5 in. lift soon and will still be able to use the same brackets, they adjust up to a 4.5 in. lift. Thought this might help, it's a lot cheaper than new adj. control arms, I bought the lower adj. arms and felt every bump in the road, they took all the impact through the frame instead of the coil springs. The correction brackets work far better. Good luck! When you get it worked out come to Colorado and have some fun with your new toy.
Click to expand...

I bought RK adjustable front lca's. They are sitting in the garage. They will go on as soon as I get the Jeep back from the dealership. I have them, RK adjustable track bar, 3/4" spacers to get rid of the rake, 4 Bilstein 5100's, exhaust spacers, and c gussets that will be welded on. I looked at the brackets but I personally like the idea of replacing the arms for the little extra cost. I've never heard of the arms riding worse than the brackets though. Maybe having stronger arms that don't bend or flex like the factory arms made for a stiffer ride? I just felt that if I'm buying parts to correct something anyway I may as well replace them with stronger parts that will take the abuse and last. I would love to able to take the Jeep to Colorado. We go out there every few years to ski but it would be awesome to have the Jeep with me.
 
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