OX locker vs ARB vs Eaton

I have been recommended all the above lockers and heard some issues as well. Does anyone have experience with OX lockers? A very reputable shop recommended them and I was leaning that way.

I have the eaton and have been happy with mine. I like not having to rely on the compressor and air lines. But to each their own.

Lockers

This is great to know. I have been considering a locker. I have a '11 Sport and have seen a thread that says to not even bother locking a D30. Having the D44 in the rear I suppose that's the way to go. I have the smaller ARB compressor but don't want to spend the money on the ARB air locker. A Elocker seems more economical. I know there are automatic lockers but I have heard mixed reviews there too. I personally like the ability to choose when I want to be locked. I don't do any rock climbing but have been in some muddy situations where I feel a locker may have benefitted. That said...thoughts?


Adam

One thing of note on the e-lockers is they need 180 degrees of wheel rotation before they lock. If you go to back up the need the same 180 degrees. The ARB needs very little rotation to lock and then it is locked all the time, even when you change direction. I don't know anything about the Ox lockers.

Also, the e-lockers are VERY prone to nuisance leaks where the wires go into the housing and the connector pins corrode easily.

lockers

Good to know. I guess there are pros and cons with each. Thanks

After some extensive research, I went with ARB air lockers front and rear. I was able to run the rear air line through the frame the entire way. With air lockers I get absolute positive locking at the flip of a switch. Even the elockers are prone to slipping in extreme conditions due to design characteristics. OX is a good way to go as well.

OX locker vs ARB

I suppose I have some saving to do. I will have to upgrade to a D44 for the front. Is the ARB compressor compatible with other sir lockers like OC or Aussie or are they proprietary?

Adam

I have a eaton in my front. I love it. Smooth locking and very reliable.

I was also looking at the OX locker when I was buying. I liked the idea of a mechanical engagement. I spoke with Dynatrac, since they were building my 60's,, and they convinced me to go ARB. As they say,,, If its good enough for Dynatrac.........

kfd78 said:

I suppose I have some saving to do. I will have to upgrade to a D44 for the front. Is the ARB compressor compatible with other sir lockers like OC or Aussie or are they proprietary?

Adam

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You can use any compressor, ARB, Viair, etc. I have the ARB, some guys run the Viair. I believe most have the 8mm tubing or you can plumb the lockers with the 8mm required tubing. If you're going to run both front and rear air lockers, remember to research how to wire the "bypass" for the front safety "babysitter". This will allow you to lock the front independent of the rear. If you don't, the rear must be engaged before the front can be engaged. It's an easy thing to do while you're installing the harnesses.

I think I am going to stick with the factory e-lockers until they have an issue. If you wire them directly to a switch without a relay can you lock them without rotation?

Spudcannons said:

I think I am going to stick with the factory e-lockers until they have an issue. If you wire them directly to a switch without a relay can you lock them without rotation?

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The rotation issue I commented on is due to the design of the locker not the wiring. FWIW: My factory locker engaged much more quickly than the Eaton e-locker. and stayed engaged once locked. I wouldn't have made the change if it were not for a damaged factory locker.

...but having used the factory, ARB, and Eaton lockers.... The ARB is hands-down the fastest acting and most positive locking/unlocking of these three.

Spudcannons said:

I have been recommended all the above lockers and heard some issues as well. Does anyone have experience with OX lockers? A very reputable shop recommended them and I was leaning that way.

Click to expand...

I had an ox in my yj. I was on the rubicon and it stopped engaging. The cable had come in contact with the exhaust. I was going to convert it to air actuated, but I bought a jkur instead. Lol. My opinion. The shifter gets in the way and a switch would be much easier if you are in a pinch. I'll go arb if another locker is needed, hopefully my stock rubicon stuff holds up.

I had to replace my '13 rubicon factory rear locker after it stopped unlocking. I researched for weeks - in the end I went with the Ox locker with the electronic actuator. For me it came down to either the Ox or ARB. Since an ARB would have required that I change my rear axle to a 35 spline (thus adding extra cost), I went with the Ox. I run it pretty hard off road several times a month, and just got back from a week in Moab with it - so far, no issues. I mounted the electronic actuator high on the tub, but away from the exhaust. It has been completely submerged a few times and still works fine. The cable going from the actuator to the diff was a bit of a pain - it was hard to get it to run exactly where I wanted it. In the end had to grind down a small section of frame rail to keep it from rubbing the cable housing.
In the event that something goes wrong with the cable or the electronic actuator, I bought the $20 "drive-away" lock. Basically, the cable gets unplugged from the diff (which will automatically unlock the diff if it was locked), and the drive away lock goes in. If you tighten it all the way, the diff will lock - then you can just loosen it slightly to unlock. Basically a $20 "key" to manually lock and unlock the diff. Ox also has an air actuator option and of course the old throw lever mechanism (which, after having run my cable just a few feet, I would not want to have to run it the full length of my Jeep - so I would avoid that option).