Dynatrac ProRock 44 Front Axle Differential Fluid Change Write-Up

wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Mtb275 said:
So Eddie, what would you recommend in a PR 44 and PR 60 with 5.13 and ARB locker?

How many quarts for PR60?
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First off, I would stick with standard dino fluid and being that you're in SoCal, you could go up to a 75W140 or there about especially in the rear. Not as needed up front but I don't think it'll do any harm. As far as how much goes, you want enough in to reach the base of the axle tubes. I would use a bent zip tie as a dip stick to help figure this out.
 
tippedover

tippedover

Member
Old write up, but just got my PR 44 installed and about to change the fluid glade I found this.
Question after running new gears and the full set up, should you change the fluids after the first 500 miles? Swear I read that but can't seem to find it, sorry if that's a stupid question


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MedixJK

MedixJK

-
tippedover said:
Old write up, but just got my PR 44 installed and about to change the fluid glade I found this.
Question after running new gears and the full set up, should you change the fluids after the first 500 miles? Swear I read that but can't seem to find it, sorry if that's a stupid question


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Click to expand...
According to dynatrac, no. They told me there is no need to change it, as long as you periodically check it, and the diff oil still looks like new diff oil.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
tippedover said:
Old write up, but just got my PR 44 installed and about to change the fluid glade I found this.
Question after running new gears and the full set up, should you change the fluids after the first 500 miles? Swear I read that but can't seem to find it, sorry if that's a stupid question


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Click to expand...

MedixJK said:
According to dynatrac, no. They told me there is no need to change it, as long as you periodically check it, and the diff oil still looks like new diff oil.
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To the best of my knowledge, ALL gears have chemicals on the metal that come off within the first 500 miles and stay in the fluid. I've always changed fluid after 500 miles with new gears. I would double check. When I did my gears in December, after the 500 mile fluid change, the fluid was really dark.

Here's a thread too: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?21075-Gear-Break-in-Period
 
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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Honestly, I don't know if it's "necessary" to change your fluid after 500 miles but I always make it a habit too right after a gear install if only to look inside and make sure there aren't any surprises.
 
QuicksilverJK

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
This is out of Yukon gears installation manual in the break in period section.

Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phos-
phoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears’ break-in period.
These towing instructions may seem unnecessary to most people, but we have seen
many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was fully broken-in.


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Sullivan

Sullivan

New member
If your thinking about it, I would just change it. It's so cheap and easy to do. And you will just feel better knowing it's done. Too much money invested in the axle to skip a small routine thing. And you will really hate yourself if you didn't hanger it and something went kaboom a few hundred miles later.


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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Sullivan said:
If your thinking about it, I would just change it. It's so cheap and easy to do. And you will just feel better knowing it's done. Too much money invested in the axle to skip a small routine thing. And you will really hate yourself if you didn't hanger it and something went kaboom a few hundred miles later.
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That's the way I see it. :yup:
 
Sullivan

Sullivan

New member
tippedover said:
Haha so true, on my first build with two new PR's and all the other goodies would hate my self so much if I skipped something EZ and destroyed something


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I just like to open up the diffs and do an inspection after most big wheeling trips anyways. Cheap insurance. And you will be able to get it off your mind once it's done. Which then leaves for time to think about more obnoxious upgrades. That's what I do!!! [emoji869]


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
tippedover said:
Haha true that great advice! On the ARBs are you'all using GL-5 85w-140 that is what is recommended in the book ARB gave me?


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I went with that based on what ARB told me, but it's likely heavier than I need with only running 4.56s. If that's what they said, I would go with it. And others have mentioned stick with conventional, don't use synthetic. A couple members have had damage to the locker seal with synthetic oil.
 
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