Front Axle Shafts : C-Clips vs. Full Circle Clips

Quick question, do you recommend one replace the axle tube seals with those pretty greasable ones if you are already spending the time to replace the axle shafts? Is it a worthwhile modification in your opinion??

NFRs2000NYC said:

Quick question, do you recommend one replace the axle tube seals with those pretty greasable ones if you are already spending the time to replace the axle shafts? Is it a worthwhile modification in your opinion??

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Eh, I've run them on a few of my Jeeps but honestly, they're far from needed.

Newb here, tho old timer on other forums...

Not a Jeep owner, well I just bot a 03 Liberty for junk, but I'll prolly repair it...

I plow snow with a '84 K5 Blazer 6.2 diesel. I was on a squarebody forum and a link sent me here.

I have wallowed out my front axles and rear driveshaft and yolk ears, an old story it seems.

As used parts are hard to find, I'm considering going with chromemoly shafts, and maybe a custom made rear driveshaft, possibly with a double ujoint. I run a 2" lift with spring wedges that correct my rear alignment, but there's quite the dshaft angle exiting my tcase.

I read about the full circle clips, I'm past that stage. I even welded my loose caps to my yolk ears, the welds cracked, but the ujoint didn't fail, but one bearing surface was dry even tho it only has a few thous miles and I'm sure I greased it. Oh well. I replaced it with MOOG extreme joint or somesuch. But my ears are oversized, so I need to do something...

Oh what the hell. If the ears are wallowed out you will need new shafts. Chromoly shafts for the front axle with full circle clips and try to find solid u joints( not greasable ) the greasable ones are hollow and not as strong. As far as your driveshaft goes, just take it to a driveline shop and have it rebuilt. Changing to a double cardian will likely cause you to have to change your pinion angle. Also make sure you have good heavy duty shocks on that thing. Wheel hop when pushing snow will break u joints pretty quickly.


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Hi AJ... Shocks are good, but I'll pay attention for wheel hop.

My dshaft drops way down out of the tcase, I think the cardan double ujoint will help.

What do dshaft shops charge for a new shaft? I presume a well stocked shop will have all the ends on the shelf. Nothing uncommon about a 1/2 ton Cheby.

And chromoly front shafts? Ten?

I don't mind greasing non roller bearing ujoints every time I plow. I grease the bjoints and tierods very often.

What makes the bushing ujoints so much stronger? The lack of grease port? How do the overseas ujoints hold out? I've had originals go 100 or 200 or 300,000 miles. Replacements then last a year or 2, and I grease them!

UGLYTRUK said:

Hi AJ... Shocks are good, but I'll pay attention for wheel hop.

My dshaft drops way down out of the tcase, I think the cardan double ujoint will help.

What do dshaft shops charge for a new shaft? I presume a well stocked shop will have all the ends on the shelf. Nothing uncommon about a 1/2 ton Cheby.

And chromoly front shafts? Ten?

I don't mind greasing non roller bearing ujoints every time I plow. I grease the bjoints and tierods very often.

What makes the bushing ujoints so much stronger? The lack of grease port? How do the overseas ujoints hold out? I've had originals go 100 or 200 or 300,000 miles. Replacements then last a year or 2, and I grease them!

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You don't have to go to a bushing u-joint. I don't know what the new part # is but it used to be a 297x spicer. It is a solid core spicer joint with needle bearing caps. The hollow ones like the moogs in your picture are a little weaker simply because they are hollow for the grease. As far as your driveline goes I would talk to your local driveline shop and see what they recommend.


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760x is the new improved version from spicer.