New Brake Caliper. Brake line not sealing.

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sbakewell

New member
From what I have read Banjo Bolts and copper washers can be a real pain. I got a remanufactured non OEM caliper and am having trouble getting it to seal.i have probably have steady "work hardened" the copper washers so I will need to replace them and try again. What is your experience with dealing with this problem? My thought is that the square brake line surface has to be spotless and also needs to be torqued down to spec. The mating surface has concentric circles that imprint on the copper washers making the seal when "crushed". I have not totally inspected this reman caliper but some have said its sometimes in bad shape. Also, I suppose that I will need to match up the washers that came with the caliper (advance auto brand)See pics. I welcome suggestions. Thanks


ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1461693757.550522.jpg ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1461693790.704132.jpg
 
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Jeepnoub

New member
All surfaces need to be clean and rust free. Torque to spec (especially with brake components). You can try and flip the washers. It has worked in a pinch for me, but they are so cheap it's best to replace them everytime you remove a brake line.

Why did the caliper need replacing?
 
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sbakewell

New member
I had a caliper slide that was seized. They basically said that it would probably be beneficial to just go ahead and replace the whole unit with a reman because of the damage to the inner slide. Now I realize that it was more work to go this route. The caliper is made by mordaza (Mexico )
 
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Jeepnoub

New member
Considering the caliper it "new" to the equation. I would take a scotch bright to the brake line and caliper mating surfaces and then wipe them clean. Flip the washers like I said and put it together and see if it seals. If it does go get new washers, if it doesn't go get a new caliper with washers. Depending on the year and mileage you might want to consider new brake lines also.
 
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Jeepnoub

New member
Age wise you are due, But I would inspect them and see how much the swell when the brakes are applied with the engine running. When it swells it reduces the force being applied to the pads. That's why a lot of people upgrade to steel braided hoses, as the do not swell and usually improves the pressure.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
In the past, when I've had the washers leaking, I just have a helper stand on the brake pedal while I can see the leak. Then I just tighten it a little more until the washer crushes and the leak stops. I've done that several times with no issues. Obviously don't torque it to the point where you feel you will damage it.
 
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sbakewell

New member
WJCO said:
In the past, when I've had the washers leaking, I just have a helper stand on the brake pedal while I can see the leak. Then I just tighten it a little more until the washer crushes and the leak stops. I've done that several times with no issues. Obviously don't torque it to the point where you feel you will damage it.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Didn't think of that idea.
 
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sbakewell

New member
Jeepnoub said:
Age wise you are due, But I would inspect them and see how much the swell when the brakes are applied with the engine running. When it swells it reduces the force being applied to the pads. That's why a lot of people upgrade to steel braided hoses, as the do not swell and usually improves the pressure.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will check that. I wonder if the swell we be obvious to detect.
 
J

Jeepnoub

New member
WJCO said:
In the past, when I've had the washers leaking, I just have a helper stand on the brake pedal while I can see the leak. Then I just tighten it a little more until the washer crushes and the leak stops. I've done that several times with no issues. Obviously don't torque it to the point where you feel you will damage it.
Click to expand...

I've done this as well. But I have seen a couple people run into issues with stripping threads. Like wjco said don't over do it. It shouldn't take much more them spec torque.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
sbakewell said:
From what I have read Banjo Bolts and copper washers can be a real pain. I got a remanufactured non OEM caliper and am having trouble getting it to seal.i have probably have steady "work hardened" the copper washers so I will need to replace them and try again. What is your experience with dealing with this problem? My thought is that the square brake line surface has to be spotless and also needs to be torqued down to spec. The mating surface has concentric circles that imprint on the copper washers making the seal when "crushed". I have not totally inspected this reman caliper but some have said its sometimes in bad shape. Also, I suppose that I will need to match up the washers that came with the caliper (advance auto brand)See pics. I welcome suggestions. Thanks

View attachment 200268
Click to expand...

the outer washer looks a bit thick and it may be the angle/shadow but in the pic it looks like the washer is not centered and there's a gap ? look down from the bleeder cap
 
S

sbakewell

New member
jeeeep said:
the outer washer looks a bit thick and it may be the angle/shadow but in the pic it looks like the washer is not centered and there's a gap ? look down from the bleeder cap
Click to expand...

I'll have to look. Good catch. After I clean up the surfaces I'll check the fit. One thing I don't understand is why the original fit looks so different. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1461717539.032595.jpg
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
as I look at the pic a bit more, the inner washer looks too big in diameter or it's not laying flat inside the inset, it should be more flush than it is.
 
S

sbakewell

New member
jeeeep said:
as I look at the pic a bit more, the inner washer looks too big in diameter or it's not laying flat inside the inset, it should be more flush than it is.
Click to expand...

It is finished. New crush washers and that did the trick!! Thanks a bunch guys
 
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