I'd like a front locker, just not in a Dana 30

Flynlo · Apr 28, 2016

Quick run down of my JK:
2014 2 Door Sport, 4.10 gears and Eaton LSD in rear (open Dana 30 front), Rock Krawler coils (3.5ish inches of lift), Bilstein 5100 shocks. Moderate off-roading in New England so mostly mud, water, sand and some rocks but 90% road use. I will be doing some wheeling in Moab and Colorado in last August (wicked excited for it!) Currently I'm running 315x75r16 All-Terrains for commuting and 35x12.5x15 KM2's for off-road.

Here's where I need assistance and advice. All in all, I want to run an ARB locker up front but do not want to invest any time or money into that D30. I want to stay in the 44 range and have an axle that I'll take with me when I eventually get a 4-door (in 3-5 years). I'll be sticking with "35's" and I don't see my wheeling habits changing any time soon but I home to get out on the trails more often.

So far I'm considering three options:
Sourcing a used Rubicon D44, replacing the locker with an ARB and welding on gussets.
Buying the Mopar J8 Dana44, welding on gussets, new gears and shafts or sourcing used ones from a Rubicon D44 (chucking the tru-lock and replacing with an ARB).
Pro Rock 44 housing with new gears and shafts or sourcing used ones from a Rubicon D44 (chucking the tru-lock and replacing with an ARB).

Thoughts and advice is greatly appreciated.

Napalm · Apr 28, 2016

My vote is if you can spare the coin, go with the ProRock. You said it yourself that you want to take it with you when you get a 4dr, and that would certainly be an axle worth taking.

If money is an issue, a take off Dana 44 wouldn't be a bad option. You could weld gussets on and you'd be good to go with 35s for your style of wheeling, and it would be cheaper than going ProRock.

That's my opinion.

cozdude · Apr 28, 2016

Napalm said:
My vote is if you can spare the coin, go with the ProRock. You said it yourself that you want to take it with you when you get a 4dr, and that would certainly be an axle worth taking.

If money is an issue, a take off Dana 44 wouldn't be a bad option. You could weld gussets on and you'd be good to go with 35s for your style of wheeling, and it would be cheaper than going ProRock.

That's my opinion.

I agree with all of this^^

The only thing that would push me to the pr44 more is just knowing that you can throw basically anything at it with the 35's and if you upgrade to 37's then your already set there as well cause you have a great axle to work with

Flynlo · Apr 29, 2016

It looks like I can order either a Pro Rock or a Currie Rock Jock 44 with gears, locker, Synergy ball joints, and a 1310 yoke with G2 shafts for about $4,500. Comparing that to a used Dana 44 which could run me a low as $2,500ish with gussets and ARB installed.

It's mostly an internal struggle to justify if I really "need" the Rock jock/Pro Rock but it would be sweet having a bulletproof axle........... it's only money right?

Napalm · Apr 29, 2016

Flynlo said:
It looks like I can order either a Pro Rock or a Currie Rock Jock 44 with gears, locker, Synergy ball joints, and a 1310 yoke with G2 shafts for about $4,500. Comparing that to a used Dana 44 which could run me a low as $2,500ish with gussets and ARB installed.

It's mostly an internal struggle to justify if I really "need" the Rock jock/Pro Rock but it would be sweet having a bulletproof axle........... it's only money right?

Like I said in my first post, it's all about how much cash you feel comfortable dropping.

Having a bulletproof axle is never a bad thing. But if your going to spend the money for a Rock Jock, spend the extra money and get the ProRock. This will be your safest and best bet and give you assurance that you will have the most bulletproof axle out there.

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 29, 2016

Flynlo said:
It looks like I can order either a Pro Rock or a Currie Rock Jock 44 with gears, locker, Synergy ball joints, and a 1310 yoke with G2 shafts for about $4,500. Comparing that to a used Dana 44 which could run me a low as $2,500ish with gussets and ARB installed.

It's mostly an internal struggle to justify if I really "need" the Rock jock/Pro Rock but it would be sweet having a bulletproof axle........... it's only money right?

If you buy a takeoff you're just going to end up kicking yourself in the ass later on. If you have $2500 now for a takeoff just continue saving and get the PR44. Not that there's anything wrong with takeoff axles, but if going to drop the coin on an axle swap, I'm only going to do it once.

WJCO · Apr 29, 2016

Granite_head said:
If you buy a takeoff you're just going to end up kicking yourself in the ass later on. If you have $2500 now for a takeoff just continue saving and get the PR44. Not that there's anything wrong with takeoff axles, but if going to drop the coin on an axle swap, I'm only going to do it once.

This is the route I would go as well. Agreed.

Flynlo · Apr 29, 2016

Napalm said:
Like I said in my first post, it's all about how much cash you feel comfortable dropping.

Having a bulletproof axle is never a bad thing. But if your going to spend the money for a Rock Jock, spend the extra money and get the ProRock. This will be your safest and best bet and give you assurance that you will have the most bulletproof axle out there.

What are the differences between the Rock and the Pro?
I agree that doing it once right is better than doing it right the second time around. If I go this route I'll most likely get the housing with the ball joints first then get the remaining parts over time. I'd need to spread out the costs a little.

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 29, 2016

Flynlo said:
What are the differences between the Rock and the Pro?
I agree that doing it once right is better than doing it right the second time around. If I go this route I'll most likely get the housing with the ball joints first then get the remaining parts over time. I'd need to spread out the costs a little.

Rock jock is made by Currie, ProRock is made by Dynatrac.

If you're capable of building the axle yourself, then by all means buy the housing and build as you go. If you can't though, you might end up paying more in the long run having someone else charge you to assemble it. I in fact did buy the housing and installed it myself, then took the jeep in and had the shop swap over the internals from my rubicon for just the cost of a typical gear swap. Actually less because I also sold him my D44 housing. In hindsight I would have waited and swapped everything myself since the guy fucked up my locker beyond repair, but that's a story for another time.

WJCO · Apr 29, 2016

Flynlo said:
What are the differences between the Rock and the Pro?
I agree that doing it once right is better than doing it right the second time around. If I go this route I'll most likely get the housing with the ball joints first then get the remaining parts over time. I'd need to spread out the costs a little.

PR tubes are .500 thick, use good steel, HD brackets and Cs, and are made in USA.

Flynlo · Apr 29, 2016

Granite_head said:
Rock jock is made by Currie, ProRock is made by Dynatrac.

If you're capable of building the axle yourself, then by all means buy the housing and build as you go. If you can't though, you might end up paying more in the long run having someone else charge you to assemble it. I in fact did buy the housing and installed it myself, then took the jeep in and had the shop swap over the internals from my rubicon for just the cost of a typical gear swap. Actually less because I also sold him my D44 housing. In hindsight I would have waited and swapped everything myself since the guy fucked up my locker beyond repair, but that's a story for another time.

LOL, DURH.

Since the cost of each housing is roughly the same (PR44 $2,295 vs. $2,044 from Northridge) is one hands over fists better than the other?
I feel confident enough to install everything but I would have my local shop double check my work (Steve's Jeep Country in NH. Good folks there).

Exodus 4x4 · Apr 29, 2016

Flynlo said:
LOL, DURH.

Since the cost of each housing is roughly the same (PR44 $2,295 vs. $2,044 from Northridge) is one hands over fists better than the other?
I feel confident enough to install everything but I would have my local shop double check my work (Steve's Jeep Country in NH. Good folks there).

Call Trail Jeeps and talk to Tim. I wouldn't buy anything Northridge. He can make you a deal on a housing with ball joints installed. I always recommend going all out and getting prosteer ball joints.

cozdude · Apr 29, 2016

Granite_head said:
Call Trail Jeeps and talk to Tim. I wouldn't buy anything Northridge. He can make you a deal on a housing with ball joints installed. I always recommend going all out and getting prosteer ball joints.

Also trail jeeps will provide you will all the specs of how your axle is built when they deliver it to you just as a little extra for you as the customer.

Wes and Tim at trails jeeps are great guys and I'm a huge supporter of there's! They have yet to disappoint me with how they have taken care of me with orders, my friends orders, and just texting me randomly to say hi.

olram30 · Apr 29, 2016

cozdude said:
Also trail jeeps will provide you will all the specs of how your axle is built when they deliver it to you just as a little extra for you as the customer.

Wes and Tim at trails jeeps are great guys and I'm a huge supporter of there's! They have yet to disappoint me with how they have taken care of me with orders, my friends orders, and just texting me randomly to say hi.

They go the extra mile it sounds like.

Flynlo · Apr 29, 2016

I dropped Tim an e-mail so we'll see what he says.

I'm thinking that a PR44, ARB locker, 4.56 gears and G2 shafts would work well for me..... Just don't know if I want to piece it together over time or do it all at once. If my Dana 30 were to suddenly break........... but I'm not that lucky.

woof359 · May 1, 2016

bolt in

if cash is the reason can you find a D44 with the same gear ratio and well it swap over with no other work ? just wondering, I would like to up grade to 35's but not on a D30

Flynlo · May 2, 2016

The cash is realative to which route I end up going. I'm okay with (not thrilled about) spending around 4K for a PR44 or RockJock 44 but would only spend around 2K total for a built up Dana 44 (ARB locker taking up a huge chunk of that cost). You get what you pay for in the end and I would never have a doubt in my mind about the PR44 lasting me a very very long time. Going the Dana route is probably the most "responsible" choice; it costs less and would be strong enough for what I'm doing but I cannot currently find one within driving distance to buy. Buying a used axle online without seeing it first is extremely risky to me and ultimately not worth it, I'd rather buy a new axle at that point and know what I'm getting. If I were to come accross a good condition Rubicon D44 with all its bits for a good price, that's local too, I'd probably jump on it.

Jeep dad · May 2, 2016

Check out jeep mopar parts you can do a new not used rubicon 44 for about 2400 . That what i just done on my sons welding in some gusset and rock slide outer housing will be in it for about 2700 all said and done no its not a pro rock . but put you with locker in front and a strong axle .
add a arb later with cvc axles and you in for 4700 but only if you break it .

OverlanderJK · May 2, 2016

Jeep dad said:
Check out jeep mopar parts you can do a new not used rubicon 44 for about 2400 . That what i just done on my sons welding in some gusset and rock slide outer housing will be in it for about 2700 all said and done no its not a pro rock . but put you with locker in front and a strong axle .
add a arb later with cvc axles and you in for 4700 but only if you break it .

$4700 for a factory D44? You are high if you think that is a good deal.

Jeep dad · May 2, 2016

Read again out the door 2400

I'd like a front locker, just not in a Dana 30

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