Raceline Monster Beadlock??
- Thread starter swampdog
- Start date
GregMort13
Caught the Bug
Samesies....
highoctane
Caught the Bug
I ran a set of them on my '08 JKUR with 35" and 37" Goodyear MT/R Kevlars. They looked great, but the beadlock ring bolts would not stay tourqed, and I had alot of broken bolts. I replaced the bolts and still had problems. The outer lip on the RT233 wheels isn't as tall as something like the ATX Slab, so the ring was barely making contact with the wheel with everything tourqued. Hindsight, I probably should've used some kind of spacer, and the aluminum rings would've worked better than the flexible thin steel rings that were on mine. Another thing with the Raceline wheels is they do not use threaded inserts like alot of other beadlock manufacturers do. If you strip out the threads for one of your beadlock bolts, you'll have to drill it out and add an insert or helicoil. I had 18" Spyderlock wheels before the Raceline wheels, and switched to these Raceline RT233 when I needed new tires, and didn't want to pay the 18" tire premium $$$. I went with ATX Slabs on my current Jeep.
Here's some pics.
With new 37" MT/R Kevlars mounted.
Painted the rings after I grew tired of the all black look.
Cleaned and painted after I removed the old 35" MT/R Kevlars
With 35" MT/R Kevlars
Poser shot in Sedona before I painted the rings.
Here's some pics.
With new 37" MT/R Kevlars mounted.
Painted the rings after I grew tired of the all black look.
Cleaned and painted after I removed the old 35" MT/R Kevlars
With 35" MT/R Kevlars
Poser shot in Sedona before I painted the rings.
Last edited:
BigPrince
New member
I learned the hard way with 233 Aluminum ring Monsters that if it can't mate with the wheel fully flush at 15lbs torque due to a thicker bead, such as my 41.5" Pitbulls have, you need to run the spacers Raceline sells or change ring type(steel vs alum). I had the same issue you describe and blew about 20bolts before getting the spacers.
The spacers supposedly fix that issue.
This is actually incorrect. I bought a set a month ago and they use threaded inserts. Multiple guys in my group have had them for years and have the threaded inserts you can knock out with a screwdriver & hammer. If you buy some spare bolts they even come with the inserts. Just replaced some after doing 5days in Moab.
WarriorJeep
New member
I've been running Racelines with 37" BFG KO2's and they held up problem free for my Transamerica Trail trip, which equates to well over 5000 off road dirt miles. I did clear coat mine first to avoid pitting.
I had to replace 6 bolts total on the trail, was very easy, the inserts aren't hard to deal with at all. They are also incredibly light compared to other beadlock wheels. This is a huge plus as rotational weight can be an issue depending on tire size.
I would recommend them to anyone wanting a solid beadlock that doesn't weigh a metric shit ton
I had to replace 6 bolts total on the trail, was very easy, the inserts aren't hard to deal with at all. They are also incredibly light compared to other beadlock wheels. This is a huge plus as rotational weight can be an issue depending on tire size.
I would recommend them to anyone wanting a solid beadlock that doesn't weigh a metric shit ton
highoctane
Caught the Bug
They must have changed the design then. It was not incorrect on the set I had. The beadlock ring bolts threaded into the wheel itself and had no inserts. That was a big complaint I had, so sounds like they fixed that.
Dalton gang
New member
What paint did you use ? I like the flat black look
highoctane
Caught the Bug
If you asking about the pics I posted, I used a few coats of this....
....along with a good 2 to 3 coats of a good primer beforehand.
Dalton gang
New member
Hell yeah looks good!
jesse3638
Hooked
I've been running them since 2012 and have had no problems. As stated above mine have inserts and aren't tapped directly into the wheel. I'm not sure which year they decided to tap them directly into the wheel or if that's the practice they use today. I do a 5 tire rotation and re-torque them at every oil change (4K miles) and very few need more than a 1/4 turn to be tight. The only complaint I have is when I bought them I do not believe the aluminum ring was available otherwise I'd have gone with that instead of the steel. The heads appear to be recessed in that version offering a bit more protection for them.
I tried the spacers...believe me I didn't want to loose $ and get new rims but after many times taking the assembly apart and making sure all was correct I just gave up.