Installing a Rubicon Transfer Case in a 2014 Wrangler JK Sport (Auto Trans)

notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
agiron said:
I found a 241j on cl, is that the rubicon case.


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Click to expand...

Is there an image of this tag? See where the ratio is engraved? I've heard of people getting cases with switched out tags, so the only way to know for sure, is to put it in 4Lo and turn the shafts by hand.

IMG_1477842658.051326.jpg

I see you have a 2013. Is the transmission automatic or manual? I don't know if that case will fit your Jeep.


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R

RockyMtnAnvil

Guest
During my research I noticed that on what appears to be the newer models (2016) the tags are no longer attached... The part number and ratio appear to be engraved directly into the case where the tag used to go.
 
Buster3479

Buster3479

Member
I'm in the middle of doing this right now with your writeup. Thank you! I'm a bit stuck trying to get the plug off the top, mostly I'm afraid of breaking it. I seem to break every electrical connector when removing them (fat fingers). Did you just push in and pry up with the screwdriver on the side that the little tab is on?

I also had to take off my EVO transmission skid to make life easier. It was just one more thing in my way. First time I've seen the bottom of Beast's engine in over 4 years. EVO skid is doing an amazing job, the engine and transmission look newish underneath a rig where everything else looks battle torn!
 
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notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
Buster3479 said:
I'm in the middle of doing this right now with your writeup. Thank you! I'm a bit stuck trying to get the plug off the top, mostly I'm afraid of breaking it. I seem to break every electrical connector when removing them (fat fingers). Did you just push in and pry up with the screwdriver on the side that the little tab is on?

I also had to take off my EVO transmission skid to make life easier. It was just one more thing in my way. First time I've seen the bottom of Beast's engine in over 4 years. EVO skid is doing an amazing job, the engine and transmission look newish underneath a rig where everything else looks battle torn!
Click to expand...

Yes, just gently pry it up.

View attachment 231545



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Buster3479

Buster3479

Member
Thanks for the reply, it pried off as you said. Wow, you weren't kidding about those bolts on the driver's side being a pain, but as you mentioned, flex head ratcheting wrenches did the job (albeit with a lot of grunting and groaning).

When I went to put the new one in, I noticed I was going to have a hell of a time! There are no studs sticking out of the front of mine to pass through the transmission, but the holes where the studs should be! Looking at the old transfer case now removed, the studs are threaded on both ends as expected. There's no where to grip them or get a wrench on the old ones, and channel locks mar them up without turning them.

I'm thinking Motech removed them so that they wouldn't get damaged in shipping? Going to have to call the dealer tomorrow and try and find out if they are even available locally. How do those get torqued in? There's no where to grip them.

Did everyone's transfer case come with the studs already in it to mount it to the transmission?
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Buster3479 said:
How do those get torqued in? There's no where to grip them.

Did everyone's transfer case come with the studs already in it to mount it to the transmission?
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You can use 2 hex nuts. Thread them somewhere on the middle of the stud then tighten them against each other. Using a wrench on the nut farthest from the tcase, tighten it and the stud and nut will move as an assembly. Similar concept for removal, but use pb blaster.

Using-double-nut-method-to-remove-MGB-cylinder-head-studs.jpg
 
desertrunner

desertrunner

Active Member
About to start on this this week now im really wishing i wouldnt have trompped around in the mud haha

i had a question though is there any sort of RTV needed to seal the input to the Trans? and is there any sort of torque specs on those nuts? I know they look like a total pain in the ass to get to so getting a torque wrench in there would be a miracle but i guess im asking did you just get them as tight as you could with the space you have?

*Edit* Looked over in the torque spec section and looks like they are supposed to be 20-30 Ft/Lbs so i can imagine as tight as i can get them in the confined space with be sufficient.
 
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notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
desertrunner said:
About to start on this this week now im really wishing i wouldnt have trompped around in the mud haha

i had a question though is there any sort of RTV needed to seal the input to the Trans? and is there any sort of torque specs on those nuts? I know they look like a total pain in the ass to get to so getting a torque wrench in there would be a miracle but i guess im asking did you just get them as tight as you could with the space you have?

*Edit* Looked over in the torque spec section and looks like they are supposed to be 20-30 Ft/Lbs so i can imagine as tight as i can get them in the confined space with be sufficient.
Click to expand...

No RTV


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