M.O.R.E. Dual Battery Tray Installation Write-Up w/ODYSSEY Batteries (2007-11 JK)

ok so i am a newb to the whole dual battery world I know on my tj i would have to rev up during winching or it would kill the battery very quick now with the new jk to avoid that can I just buy a dual battery tray and pop to batteries in and it will be like 1 huge battery or do they run separately like one to crank and one just for winch and accessories? what am i in for on this? future plans are a winch dual arb compressor maybe some lights, i never welded do i dont think I will need an on board welder so with those basic add ons will I need a dual battery?

wayoflife said:

Sorry for not seeing the question above sooner. I have bought a painless wiring kit and had intended to install it but never got around to it due to all the transmission problems we were having. Now that we're doing an LS swap, I'm not even 100% sure we'll be able to keep our dual battery tray - we'll have to see.

Regarding And 2nd, Die Hard Platinum and Odyssey, it is my understanding that the Platnum P-1's are made by Odyssey. I don't know if they are exactly the same in terms of performance though. I have run the P-1's in the past and they are a HUGE improvement over Optima Yellow Tops and I would highly recommend them too.

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Thanks for the advice and recommendations. Just picked up a pair of Diehards today and have a M.O.R.E. tray on it's way. Maybe it'll be a project for this weekend :thumb: Now gonna go back and read your install instructions a few more times

NOPULP13 said:

ok so i am a newb to the whole dual battery world I know on my tj i would have to rev up during winching or it would kill the battery very quick now with the new jk to avoid that can I just buy a dual battery tray and pop to batteries in and it will be like 1 huge battery or do they run separately like one to crank and one just for winch and accessories? what am i in for on this? future plans are a winch dual arb compressor maybe some lights, i never welded do i dont think I will need an on board welder so with those basic add ons will I need a dual battery?

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You are describing the need for a dual battery system with an isolator (to separate them). If you run the batteries in parallel and connect the winch to one of them, you will most likely draw current from both, and deplete both. If you use an isolator, and again connect the winch to one battery, you will deplete only that one battery ... which is hopefully not the same battery you use to power your vehicle's electrical system.

The JK alternator, depending on year, puts out about 160A. The stock TJ alternator (according to a Google search) puts out ~120A. That 40 amp delta is a huge difference! Even at 160A, however, you can deplete your battery during winching. Two ways to mitigate--but not entirely prevent--that:

1. Rev the engine manually (or electronically if you're lucky enough to have a button, etc., to do this for you) like you have before.
2. Buy a high output alternator that puts out more amps at lower RPMs.

Buying a marine grade or deep cycle battery is also a good idea if you think you're going to deplete it.

Below is an example of a wiring diagram for a dual battery system (I found this online; not my own drawing). Ignore the Amperage ratings on the accessory fuses; you would need something much larger for a winch. My guess is 200A or so.



The "Intelligent Solenoid" depicted is something similar to a Cole Hersee 48530 isolator. They are included in most turn-key systems. Hope this helps.

-Dawn (with help from Chris LOL).

Merlin75 said:

Two questions.
Have you done the isolator wiring yet? I've got a similar setup in my 09 JK but am in the market for new batteries (as you know) and I've been frustrated recently because my starting battery is crapping out, and the isolator that I installed requires me to open the hood in order to self-jump. I was wondering if you had any suggestion on an isolator with a remote switch inside the cab. (lazy, yes.. don't hate!)

And 2nd, I've read a lot about Die Hard Platinum vs Odyssey, are they really the same or are the guts different/batter in the Odyssey branded? (the price diff is $100+!)

Thanks!

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We researched this quite a bit. The performance metrics are practically identical. We bought the Die Hard Platinum and have had no issues; the stock battery would have left us stranded in Mojave and then Big Bear had we not been wheeling with a partner. I wouldn't trust the stocker past 2 years.

I came across this kit the other day. I think it is pretty neat, might be on my list!

http://www.genesisoffroad.com/store/JK-Dual-Battery-Kit.html


And also went to my Odyssey retailer yesterday and, found that the right part number for the 2012+ jk's for an Odyssey Extreme is PC1500/34R (reversed poles), which retails at 332$ CAD.

Question from another newb: I was wondering about putting aux lights, winch, compressor, and whatnot on a different circuit - including different fuse block? Or, is that the purpose an isolator/relay?

KennyFrench said:

Question from another newb: I was wondering about putting aux lights, winch, compressor, and whatnot on a different circuit - including different fuse block? Or, is that the purpose an isolator/relay?

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Nearly every accessory you run will be powered directly from the battery. You can pull power from inside the cab to turn on your switches, but the accessories themselves will need fused power directly from the battery (as opposed to the OEM fuse box). I've seen people tap open fuse spots in the OEM box, but it isn't worth the hassle in my opinion.

For your average set of lights, I run a fused power line from the battery to a relay, a ground to the relay, a wire to from the relay to the lights, and a wire from the relay to a switch in the cab. The switch will also have its own ground wire and, assuming it has a light, a hot wire tapped into a source in your dash (such as the 12 volt outlet). Depending on your needs the size of wire, relay and fuse may differ. I tend to overkill my wiring with 12 gauge wire, 30 or 40 amp relays, and 30 amp fuses.

KennyFrench said:

Question from another newb: I was wondering about putting aux lights, winch, compressor, and whatnot on a different circuit - including different fuse block? Or, is that the purpose an isolator/relay?

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Do you have a dual battery set up? My aux lights run through my SPod which is wired to my secondary battery SPod has its own fuses. My winch is wired directly to my secondary battery. Yes that is the purpose of my dual battery isolator.


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Paisano said:

Do you have a dual battery set up? My aux lights run through my SPod which is wired to my secondary battery SPod has its own fuses. My winch is wired directly to my secondary battery. Yes that is the purpose of my dual battery isolator.


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Where did you put your second battery? You have a 2013 right?

MTG said:

Where did you put your second battery? You have a 2013 right?

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Yes it's a 2013, here's a pic.



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Eddie, you still running this dual battery setup? I'm not familiar at all with a 2 battery system. I assume as long as both positives are touching each other and both negatives are touching each other, then it is still a 12v system correct? And the alternator still charges both of them at the same time? Any risk or issues?

Then for welding, you would run them in series, disconnect everything and run a positive wire to negative on the other battery to create a 24v system?

WJCO said:

Eddie, you still running this dual battery setup? I'm not familiar at all with a 2 battery system. I assume as long as both positives are touching each other and both negatives are touching each other, then it is still a 12v system correct? And the alternator still charges both of them at the same time? Any risk or issues?

Then for welding, you would run them in series, disconnect everything and run a positive wire to negative on the other battery to create a 24v system?

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I am no longer running this setup as I am now running an LS and it wouldn't fit. You can run it as you have described but it would be more beneficial if you ran it with an isolator system. There are a few companies like Painless Performance that make a kit for this. For welding, yes, you would need to disconnect them and run them in series. If you're using something like a Premier Ready Welder II, you would need to have it set for this as well.

Does anyone know if the MORE Dual battery tray will interfere with the EVO Bolt on Coilovers? I'm looking at installing one after the other and am thinking the ribs underneath the battery tray are the ones I'm supposed to trim when installing the front passenger coilover tower.