Stage II upgrade opinions

Time to take my jkur to the next level. Current set up is fab fours stubby FB, Warn Zeon 10, Rock Brawler II RB, Fox ATS stabilizer, Fox 2.5 shocks front & back, banks monster exhaust with Intake, Nitto MG 35", just replaced stock axle shafts in the rear with revolution cause I bent mine. And it's getting regeared as we speak with 5:13. Then some lights for my hog hunting of course. Route in wanting to go PR 60/60, double D pro long arm & coil over. Not sure if I need to PR 80 in the rear and not sure if I should bump my evo to double throwdown. That'll all take about 6-9 months to bank roll, so another question is do I go ahead and get stuff like drag link flip and so on? Most of the kits come w it, but that's all stuff I can do now. Also, which should be tackled first. What else am I missing? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Calebrink said:

Time to take my jkur to the next level. Current set up is fab fours stubby FB, Warn Zeon 10, Rock Brawler II RB, Fox ATS stabilizer, Fox 2.5 shocks front & back, banks monster exhaust with Intake, Nitto MG 35", just replaced stock axle shafts in the rear with revolution cause I bent mine. And it's getting regeared as we speak with 5:13. Then some lights for my hog hunting of course. Route in wanting to go PR 60/60, double D pro long arm & coil over. Not sure if I need to PR 80 in the rear and not sure if I should bump my evo to double throwdown. That'll all take about 6-9 months to bank roll, so another question is do I go ahead and get stuff like drag link flip and so on? Most of the kits come w it, but that's all stuff I can do now. Also, which should be tackled first. What else am I missing? Thanks in advance for any advice.

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Damn, 6-9 months to save up for this dream list of parts? I want your job :yup:. Unless you wheel like Eddie on a regular basis, you won't need to do a PR80 in the rear...60's front and rear should serve you just fine. Probably don't NEED the DTD as well, the pro long arm and coilover set up will be amazing by itself. That said, if it's going to kill you not having the biggest and beefiest of set ups, then just get exactly what you want out of the gate so you don't have to spend more money later (but if you end up selling a rear PR60, please PM me as I'm in Houston LOL).

If you're going to do all of this within 9 months, you might as well upgrade your steering components now in preparation.

Calebrink said:

Time to take my jkur to the next level. Current set up is fab fours stubby FB, Warn Zeon 10, Rock Brawler II RB, Fox ATS stabilizer, Fox 2.5 shocks front & back, banks monster exhaust with Intake, Nitto MG 35", just replaced stock axle shafts in the rear with revolution cause I bent mine. And it's getting regeared as we speak with 5:13. Then some lights for my hog hunting of course. Route in wanting to go PR 60/60, double D pro long arm & coil over. Not sure if I need to PR 80 in the rear and not sure if I should bump my evo to double throwdown. That'll all take about 6-9 months to bank roll, so another question is do I go ahead and get stuff like drag link flip and so on? Most of the kits come w it, but that's all stuff I can do now. Also, which should be tackled first. What else am I missing? Thanks in advance for any advice.

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A lot of info here.

What is your reason to go "bigger"?

I assume the 5.13 regear is to run a 37" tire? Did you already add the c-gussets to your front D44? I would make sure this is in place and your balljoints are in good shape before you mount the 37s. (Assuming)

While the double throw down system is AWESOME. if you plan to play in texas, all of the parks have a 15mph park road speed limit that is strictly enforced being that it is all private land. As such, You will rarely if at all get to enjoy the benifits of the triple bypass shock.

If you plan on big horsepower (hemi/LS swap) I would look into a pr80, otherwise with 37s, the factory rear d44, and a prorock 44 front is sufficient, and once the lockers go, an ARB can be swapped in relatively cheap. If you plan on running a 40" tire, that is where the PR60s will shine.

Hope that helps :thumb:

Wanting to go 37's min, maybe 40's. And as far as the throwdown, I was thinking that route cause we have a bit of land that we hog hunt and play around on. All the factory take offs I was gonna toss on a 13 jk.

Next question, what other things should I do to improve roll center, geometry, and so on. I.E. All the smaller things to improve my rig.

Like I said earlier, I'm new to all do this. But if I'm gonna jump in, might as well do it with both feet!

Calebrink said:

Wanting to go 37's min, maybe 40's. And as far as the throwdown, I was thinking that route cause we have a bit of land that we hog hunt and play around on. All the factory take offs I was gonna toss on a 13 jk.

Next question, what other things should I do to improve roll center, geometry, and so on. I.E. All the smaller things to improve my rig.

Like I said earlier, I'm new to all do this. But if I'm gonna jump in, might as well do it with both feet!

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You pretty much have it nailed down. The high steer kit will correct steering geometry once lifted, and I would not recomend installing that before as the drag link will make contact with the frame unless you add bump and limit your current setup. As for roll centers, a Lower stance is all you can do, it's a jeep not a corvette. The long arm will correct your suspension geometry. If you end up on coilovers, you will find the happy place to be right around 3.5-4" of lift from factory height. Combine this with a 37" tire you are looking at a frame that is now around 6" higher off the ground than stock. That's it man. 37s will work as a bolt on until you have some cash for a hydro assist steering ram, the 40s you will pretty much need hydro right out of the gate.

Either option will require upgrades to halt those big, heavy tires, and stock brakes just aren't up to snuff. While a semi float PR60 will be available in the stock 5x5 bolt patern, any full float hub will not. This is also something to consider before dropping the coin on brakes, and new rims for your 37"+ meats, as hub changes will require different bolt patterns.

Thanks so much for all your input! That actually makes sense. Good place for me to start researching myself..... Which I'm sure will lead to another 9 million questions. And, good news is I can get the dynatrac upgraded brakes now as all my take offs from my Rubi will go to the sport. Thanks again for your input wiggles.

This post makes me want to speed up my build. I just have to find the $$$