26. Lift the rear end of your Jeep from the differential using a tall floor jack and then set it back down onto (2) jack stands, each placed just behind the lower control arm frame mounts. Remove the wheels off using a 19mm lug wrench or socket and set them out of the way for now. Leave the floor jack under front the axle to help support it.
27. Using a 16mm socket and a 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension, remove the 2 upper rear shock mount bolts.
28. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt and nut securing the rear shocks to the lower axle mounts. Remove and set aside your shocks for now.
29. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the bolts and nuts securing your rear sway bar links to the lower axle mounts. Then, slip a 19mm wrench in between the sway bar link and sway bar itself and hold the ball joint stud in place while removing the nut securing it in place with 18mm wrench. Completely remove your links and set them aside for now as they will be reused in place of your factory front links.
30. Remove the rear track bar bolt and nut from the lower axle mount using a 21mm socket. Loosen but do not remove the frame mount bolt. As was the case with the front track bar, this can be a tough bolt to remove and a breaker bar will help to make this job easier.
31. Using a 10mm socket, remove the 2 nuts securing the emergency brake cables to the bottom of the tub. This is necessary in order for you to get your rear axle to droop enough to install your new coils.
32. Using a 10mm socket, unbolt the rear brake line brackets which are fastened to the outside frame rails. Leave them dangling at this time.
33. Slowly lower your rear axle being mindful of the ESP wiring. Once your axle is dropped low enough, your factory coils should just about fall out and can be removed with ease. Set aside the upper rubber isolators as they will be reused.
34. Take your new rear coil spacers and install the factory rear coil rubber isolators onto the center post as shown in this photo.
35. Apply a small amount of white lithium grease to the knob on the upper side of your new rear coil spacers.
36. Plug your new rear coil spacers up onto the hole of the rear upper spring perch.
37. Re-install your factory coils underneath your new rear coil spacers making sure that it is properly seated on the rubber isolators.
38. Install 2 of the bolts and washers provided with the kit into the holes on the rear bump stop extension as shown in this photo.
39. Place the rear bump stop extension on top of the axle bump stop plate making sure that the bolts go through the existing holes. On newer kits, this bump stop will be shaped like a parallagram and have a top that is skewed over to one side from the bottom. Install these with the top surface pointing towards the front of your Jeep.
40. Using a 1/2″ and 13mm wrench, secure the rear bump stop extension to your axle bump stop plate using the lock nuts and washer provided with the kit.
41. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, install your new sway bar link onto the lower axle mounts with the factory hardware and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. Then, install them to the sway bar using the hardware provided. Once installed, apply some grease to the zerk nipple using a grease gun.
42. Using a 10mm socket and the factory hardware, install the rear brake line extension brackets onto the frame rails with the bends pointing toward the center of your Jeep and the notches pointing backward.
43. Secure your rear brake lines to the new extension brackets using the bolts, washers and lock nuts provided with the kit. You will need a 7/16″ socket and wrench for this job.
44. Layout and assemble the pieces for the rear shocks as shown in this photo.
45. Loosely install the rear shock extension onto the upper frame mounts using just one of the long bolts provided with the kit.
46. Slip one of the small bolts and washer throug the top of the frame rail and loosely secure the rear shock extension bracket to it from under neath using one of the lock nuts and washers provided with the kit.
47. Loosely install your rear shocks onto the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. This will help you hold everything in place while you secure the TeraFlex rear shock extension bracket and upper shock mount in palce.
48. Using a 17mm socket and 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension, secure your rear shocks and extension brackets to the upper frame mountwith the long bolts and washers provided with the kit. Tighten these bolts to 37 ft. lbs. of torque.
49. Using a 1/2″ socket, a 6″-12″ ratchet drive extension and a 1/2″ wrench, tighten the additional small bolt and nut securing your new rear shock extension to the upper frame mount.
50. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, re-install your rear shocks onto the lower axle mounts using the factory hardware. Tighten these bolts to 56 ft. lbs. of torque.
51. Using a 10mm socket, re-secure your emergency brake cables hanger to the bottom of the tub using the factory nuts.
52. Reinstall your rear wheels, lower your Jeep back down on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque.
53. If you have a friend helping out, have them push on the passenger side of your Jeep until the rear track bar axle mount hole lines up enough for you to insert the bolt through it. Then, secure the rear track bar bolt and flag nut in place and tighten both bolts to 125 ft. lbs. of torque.
54. Install your factory rear sway bar links onto the front axle mounts and tighten them to 75 ft. lbs. of torque. You will need an 18mm socket and wrench to do this job.
55. Because of the lift, your steering wheel will now be off just a bit. To re-center it, use a 15mm wrench to loosen the 2 nuts on the turnbuckle as shown in the pic to the left. Then, rotate the turnbuckle clockwise or counter clockwise as needed while a friend watches the steering wheel (or you periodically check on it yourself) go back to center. Once re-centered, secure the nuts and take it for a drive to check your steering wheel. This may take a few tries to get it on 100% but that’s all there is to it.
56. Because your factory control arm bushings utilize bonded rubber bushing, they will all be in a state of bind now due to the lift. While this isn't a required step, I would recommend that you loosen all your control arm bushing bolts, rock your Jeep side to side and up and down and then retighten them to factory torque spec. All the lower control arm and rear upper arm bolts require a 21mm socket/wrench and need to be tightend to 125 ft. lbs. of torque. The front upper arms will need an 18mm socket/wrench and need to be tighted up to 75 ft. lbs. You can do this with your Jeep sitting on the ground.
That's it, you now have a Jeep JK Wrangler that's sitting 2.5" taller.