Question about front track bar.

Draconianwinter

New member
What would be the best option for a front track bar? After much debating on how to lift my jeep I have decided between two kits. Kit 1 the evo 3 inch enforcer and kit 2 rk 2.5 inch. The enforcer is considerably cheaper, oddly enough than the rk kit even after adding the cost of a new front track bar and shocks. And both kits will still require a drive shaft replacement. So the question is which trash bar will be the best choice if I decide on the evo enforcer kit?

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I'm assuming if you do the enforcer you'll also be doing a drag link flip? If so you can just use the stock track bar since that will raise your track bar mount back to stock position. It's the best price of them all! Free .99


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highoctane

Caught the Bug
I'd just run the stock bar with a Evo high steer/drag link flip kit if you go with the taller lift. 3-4" is about the lift range where you can do a high steer. With the 2.5" lift you can just leave the stock track bar alone since you aren't really lifting you're jeep enough to shift the axle much. Stock track bar is plenty strong. Stronger than anything with the phrase "game changing" and "monster" in their name. I run a stock track bar on my JK with the Evo double throwdown and dana 60 high steer with no issues. I could be wrong but I believe the stock track bar is forged, while many aftermarket track bars are not.
 

Draconianwinter

New member
I'm assuming if you do the enforcer you'll also be doing a drag link flip? If so you can just use the stock track bar since that will raise your track bar mount back to stock position. It's the best price of them all! Free .99


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I'd just run the stock bar with a Evo high steer/drag link flip kit if you go with the taller lift. 3-4" is about the lift range where you can do a high steer. With the 2.5" lift you can just leave the stock track bar alone since you aren't really lifting you're jeep enough to shift the axle much. Stock track bar is plenty strong. Stronger than anything with the phrase "game changing" and "monster" in their name. I run a stock track bar on my JK with the Evo double throwdown and dana 60 high steer with no issues. I could be wrong but I believe the stock track bar is forged, while many aftermarket track bars are not.

Make sure you use 3" bump stops with a drag link flip


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Thank you all for the information. So doing the drag link flip well leave my track bar in the proper place to keep my axle centered? If I understand that correctly?

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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thank you all for the information. So doing the drag link flip well leave my track bar in the proper place to keep my axle centered? If I understand that correctly?

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Yes. The drag link flip will come with a track bar relocation bracket and that will help to recenter your axle using your factory track bar.
 

WJCO

Meme King
Thank you all for the information. So doing the drag link flip well leave my track bar in the proper place to keep my axle centered? If I understand that correctly?

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If you flip your drag link, you will need to raise the track bar at the same time to keep them parallel. When you raise the track bar, it basically puts it in on a similar angle as it was when the Jeep was stock so basically axle stays in the same position.

If your were to not raise the track bar after lifting the vehicle, the angle would be steeper and the axle would shift to the side a little.
 

Draconianwinter

New member
If you flip your drag link, you will need to raise the track bar at the same time to keep them parallel. When you raise the track bar, it basically puts it in on a similar angle as it was when the Jeep was stock so basically axle stays in the same position.

If your were to not raise the track bar after lifting the vehicle, the angle would be steeper and the axle would shift to the side a little.

Yes. The drag link flip will come with a track bar relocation bracket and that will help to recenter your axle using your factory track bar.
Thank you for the info. This is why I don't get anyone who has a problem with wayalife. You guys are always willing to help out with your rather vast knowledge among other things.

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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Thank you for the info. This is why I don't get anyone who has a problem with wayalife. You guys are always willing to help out with your rather vast knowledge among other things.

LOL!! There are people out there who get all butthurt when we tell them something they don't want to hear. :crazyeyes:
 

Frydaddy

New member
You can also substitute a $200 drag link flip kit for a $50 Right-Hand-Drive drag link (52126058AD) and a $10 flip adapter.
 

Draconianwinter

New member
LOL!! There are people out there who get all butthurt when we tell them something they don't want to hear. :crazyeyes:
Lol some definitely do. Personally while I may not want to hear somethings, I would still rather hear what I am about to do is not a good idea then find out after I spent money on it only to figure out it was a mistake lol
Here's a very 'exaggerated' drawing if that helps.

View attachment 228462
Cool thanks. Definitely kind of miss my old leaf springs like my cj had. No able shifting just due to adding the lift. Lol oh well. I love my rubicon and this is like other things is all part of owning one lol

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Draconianwinter

New member
You can also substitute a $200 drag link flip kit for a $50 Right-Hand-Drive drag link (52126058AD) and a $10 flip adapter.
Thanks for that info. Always nice to be able to save a little cash. But I think I will do the drag link flip from evo. Besides with my luck I would get it all in and find out after the fact that I ordered the wrong bracket lol

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Learo2000GT

Member
Not to hijack the thread but I am in a very similar situation but I am right between needing a flip or not. Running a rock krawler 2.5 on heavy JKU and I have a bit of bumper stead about inch of movement on stealing wheel when shifting gears is a good way to notice it. I picked up a synergy bar but I also have an artec truss and I am thinking if I flip it I would have to notch the frame or have hitting in some area. Any thoughts on my situation. Thanks.


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Frydaddy

New member
Not to hijack the thread but I am in a very similar situation but I am right between needing a flip or not. Running a rock krawler 2.5 on heavy JKU and I have a bit of bumper stead about inch of movement on stealing wheel when shifting gears is a good way to notice it. I picked up a synergy bar but I also have an artec truss and I am thinking if I flip it I would have to notch the frame or have hitting in some area. Any thoughts on my situation. Thanks.
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...Rock and a hard place. They say 2.5" is the bare minimum. Just make sure your bump stops are the right length to prevent binding at full compression.
 

Frydaddy

New member
You'd still need the raised front track bar bracket. ~$135, I believe.

The enforcer 3" kit doesn't come with one? A drag link kit wont have one anyways.
*Looks up EVO* Oh, they roll the track bar mount into their flip kit. ah, sneaky.

OP, just make sure your drag link is parallel with your track bar.
 

Draconianwinter

New member
Yeah I looked up their flip kit since I wasn't sure if it was a deforestation purchase or not. Drew confirmed it is a separate purchase and it does everything I would need it to do. Also the cost even with that is still lower than most of the other kits I was looking at. So this will work well and I get that well loved evo quality everyone on here likes so much. And with this kit on my 2dr once I get ready to go to 37s and replace both axles I won't need to buy a taller lift lol

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Draconianwinter

New member
OK so going with the enforcer kit as soon as I can do so. Next question. What do I need aside from the drag link flip kit and drive shafts. I know I will need either spacers or new wheels to get the proper back spacing. But I also noticed that people are getting around 4 inches of lift with this kit on a 2dr. So should I also be looking at adding adjustable control arms for the rear as well? Sorry for the questions as I am sure these have likely been asked a thousand times. I did try to find threads on this but frankly wasn't having any luck, and I just want to do things right the first time around with a lift kit. My only experience with lifts all involved leaf springs so these coil lifts are pretty much alien too me.

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Draconianwinter

New member
...Rock and a hard place. They say 2.5" is the bare minimum. Just make sure your bump stops are the right length to prevent binding at full compression.
I swear I saw someone else ask about that on a 2.5 inch lift, and I don't remember I'd it was Eddie or someone else but I think they said a drag link flip wouldn't clear on the 2.5 inch lift. I wish I could remember where it was and what was said exactly.

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