Evo drag link flip/C gusset question
- Thread starter TonyViv
- Start date
WJCO
Meme King
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Removing the spring on the one side and then jacking it up is prob the best way I have found
WJCO
Meme King
Jack it up as high as you can and put frame on jackstands. Then using the jack, jack up each side of the axle.
Has anyone done the jks dl flip, in the instructions it says to use a step bit. Is that the best tool for the job, would people recommend anything better?
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WJCO
Meme King
Granitecrystal just did it, hopefully he'll know.
Mtb275
Member
I did the JKS dl flip. The step bit worked great. Use the bit that comes in the kit from JKS.
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Mtb275
Member
It was really pretty simple. I used an 18v cordless drill. Hold the drill firm and upright. Don't let it wobble around.
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A step bit or unibit is expensive but it'll give you the most control. I would recommend that you use some cutting oil while drilling as well.
Mtb275
Member
Cutting oil would be good. Although, I didn't use any. The step Bit provided by JKS in the kit worked well.
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TonyViv
Member
So I took it in to Discount and had the tires balanced and rotated, , all tires were out of balance by .5 to 2 oz. For some reason my Yokahama Geolanders seem to go out of balance every 3-5k mile, whether a weight falls off or not, Im not sure. It is now driving pretty normal like it always has been. I know a drag link flip is recommended with lifts over 3 inches, I am at 4 inches.
To be realistic, wranglers aren't caddys, so we can get used to the way they feel when driving. Considering the cost, depending on the kit 3-500$, would I really feel a difference in steering after installing a drag link flip and raised track bar? And what would it fix/feel?
All my front end parts test good except for a very minimal amount of play(within spec) at the pitman arm TRE and I have 4.1 caster with adjustable control arms. Over all it drives pretty good, moves around a bit with a bit of bump steer but it doesn't seem unreasonable.. Then again my only Wrangler experience before my JK was an 03 TJ lifted with a 3in teraflex kit on 33's and it seemed firm but fine.
Would I really feel/notice anything to make it worth the cost with the flip?
Any ideas??
Thanks
Tony
To be realistic, wranglers aren't caddys, so we can get used to the way they feel when driving. Considering the cost, depending on the kit 3-500$, would I really feel a difference in steering after installing a drag link flip and raised track bar? And what would it fix/feel?
All my front end parts test good except for a very minimal amount of play(within spec) at the pitman arm TRE and I have 4.1 caster with adjustable control arms. Over all it drives pretty good, moves around a bit with a bit of bump steer but it doesn't seem unreasonable.. Then again my only Wrangler experience before my JK was an 03 TJ lifted with a 3in teraflex kit on 33's and it seemed firm but fine.
Would I really feel/notice anything to make it worth the cost with the flip?
Any ideas??
Thanks
Tony
Last edited:
TonyViv
Member
Well scratch all that ^^
Twice on my way home today the wobble in the wheel came back. Once over some RR tracks and again over some bumps in the road. Only seems to happen between 35-40 mph.
Though Ive only seen videos and have never driven with death wobble, I would consider this to be a "mini"DW, It doesn't get violent but the wheel goes back and forth and the front end shakes a bit and either have to speed up through it or slow down to get it to stop.
Guess Im back to the drawing board and have to get back under and inspect everything again.
Tony
Twice on my way home today the wobble in the wheel came back. Once over some RR tracks and again over some bumps in the road. Only seems to happen between 35-40 mph.
Though Ive only seen videos and have never driven with death wobble, I would consider this to be a "mini"DW, It doesn't get violent but the wheel goes back and forth and the front end shakes a bit and either have to speed up through it or slow down to get it to stop.
Guess Im back to the drawing board and have to get back under and inspect everything again.
Tony
JKbrick
Active Member
I feel your pain, been messing with the same thing since July, started like that then got death wobble. I'm in the process of changing every front end part to get rid of it
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USMMA11NC
Caught the Bug
Is there any chance that you've knocked your driveshaft and its lost a balancing weight? You can pull your front prop shaft and go for another drive to see if that resolved the issue. Be sure to put some witness marks on the flanges so you can put the shaft back in the way it was.
Beyond that I would recommend going through and torquing all your suspension components again.
TonyViv
Member
Well as far as I know from my last weekends inspection,
Ball joints good, surprised with 35k miles, if I cranked hard enough up on the tires and checked right
Tie rod ends good, no play squeezing them with channel locks
Drag link end on knuckle good..... slight play on pitman arm end
No play in track bar..
Since with my lift (4 in), from what Ive read I cant go wrong with a drag link flip with new pitman arm end and track bar relocation, Im going to order that up.
This weekend I delve back in and recheck ball joints, my adjustable control arms and bushings and all bolt torques.
Ball joints good, surprised with 35k miles, if I cranked hard enough up on the tires and checked right
Tie rod ends good, no play squeezing them with channel locks
Drag link end on knuckle good..... slight play on pitman arm end
No play in track bar..
Since with my lift (4 in), from what Ive read I cant go wrong with a drag link flip with new pitman arm end and track bar relocation, Im going to order that up.
This weekend I delve back in and recheck ball joints, my adjustable control arms and bushings and all bolt torques.
TonyViv
Member
Well, I received the synergy track bar relocation bracket so far, just waiting on the rest of the drag link flip to show up...
In checking the install instructions on the bracket, it talks about relocating the sway bar links up, but its "optional".. Anyone using the synergy bracket? Should I do the relocation of sway bar links too? Is there a benefit to moving them or keeping them in the same place...? If so it looks like another attachment point to strengthen the bracket..
I have adjustable quick discos, so if you did raise, do you then shorten them to keep the sway bar slightly above horizontal? Or is it supposed to be raised as well?
Also, If my adjustable track bar wont shorten enough to be able to use, I do still have my stock but I don't remember which way it goes on and the bushings are the same.. Does the curve go on the pitman side or the knuckle side??
Thanks
Tony
In checking the install instructions on the bracket, it talks about relocating the sway bar links up, but its "optional".. Anyone using the synergy bracket? Should I do the relocation of sway bar links too? Is there a benefit to moving them or keeping them in the same place...? If so it looks like another attachment point to strengthen the bracket..
I have adjustable quick discos, so if you did raise, do you then shorten them to keep the sway bar slightly above horizontal? Or is it supposed to be raised as well?
Also, If my adjustable track bar wont shorten enough to be able to use, I do still have my stock but I don't remember which way it goes on and the bushings are the same.. Does the curve go on the pitman side or the knuckle side??
Thanks
Tony
Last edited:
JK_BUB
New member
I think the purpose of the upper sway bar link hole is to give a place to mount the stub shaft if you have a sway bar disco system that requires it. Since the lower hole on the passenger side is now sandwiched between the bracket and the link tab, you can't mount a stub shaft there.
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JK_BUB
New member
I forgot to mention that I left mine in the lower holes and it seems fine.Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app