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  1. #1
    Administrator
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    Oct 2011
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    Carson City, NV
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    MAINTENANCE : Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Brake Pad Replacement

    I have been able to get as much as 36,000 miles out of my Jeep JK Wrangler's rear brake pads but it's not uncommon to burn through them in as little as 15,000 miles. While I'm sure some of this can be attributed to driving style, a lot of it is also the result of an over active ESP/BAS system. Whatever the case might be, it’s a good idea to give them a look every other tire rotation and have them serviced as needed. Fortunately, this is a job that can be done with a minimal amount of tools or mechanical know how and this write-up will show you what you need to do.

    What You Will Need
    • Rear Brake Pads
    • 11,18,19mm Wrench
    • Torque Wrench
    • Floor Jack
    • Wheel Chocks
    • Large C-Clamp
    • Brake Bleeding Kit
    • DOT-3 Brake Fluid

    Instructions
    This is a pic of everything you will get with your new brake pads. Basically, a set of 4 new pads (2 of which should have new sounders) and a set of replacement retaining clips.


    1. Open up your master cylinder and check the fluid level. If you had not been adding more fluid to it, you should see that it is low now. If you have been adding to it, you may find it necessary to bleed your rear brakes a bit before continuing. Failure to do so will result in the overflowing of your master cylinder once you install your new brake pads.


    To see a detailed write-up on how to bleed your brakes, click on the link below:
    Brake Bleeding Write-Up

    2. Chock your front tires, place a floor jack under the rear differential and raise the back end of until the tires come off the ground.


    3. Using a 19mm socket or a tire iron, remove the lug nuts securing your rear wheels to your axles and set them aside.


    4. Using an 18mm wrench, remove the lower bolt securing the rear brake caliper to the axle as shown in this pic.


    5. Again, using an 18mm wrench, remove the upper bolt securing the rear brake caliper to the axle as shown in this pic.


    6. With the 2 bolts removed, you should be able to slide the brake calipers off the rear rotors with ease. Carefully inspect your rotors and if they appear to be heavily scored, take them in to your local auto parts store and have them turned or replaced as needed.


    7. If this is the first time removing your rotors for service or replacement, you will need to first remove a couple of assembly washers securing it in place. These washers are attached to the wheel studs and will require a small flathead screwdriver and/or needle nose pliers to remove. Once off, you can throw them away as the will not be reused.


    8. IF you purchased new rotors, make sure to spray them with brake cleaner and wipe them down thoroughly with rag to remove the protective film on it prior to installing it. (Note: Photo is a TJ front rotor and is was used for representational purposes only)


    9. Remove the outer brake pad from the rear caliper by pushing it towards the opposite pad as shown in this pic.


    10. Place a large C-clamp over the remaining brake pad and the back of the caliper as shown above. Slowly compress the C-clamp so that the caliper piston is forced all the way back inside.


    11. Remove the inner brake pad from the rear caliper by pushing it out as shown in this pic.


    12. Make a note of how they are installed and then remove the 2 brake pad retaining clips on each side of the rear calipers as shown in this pic.


    13. Install the 4 new retaining clips that should have come with your brake pads on to the rear calipers as shown.


    14. 2 of your new brake pads will have sounder clips on them. These need to be installed onto the piston end of the caliper. Simply slide it onto the retaining clips with the pad facing inward as shown in this pic.


    15. Install the brake pads without the sounder clip onto the opposite side of the rear brake caliper. Again, all you need to do is slide it onto the retaining clips.


    16. Make sure that the brake line isn’t twisted around and then slide the brake caliper back onto the rear rotor.


    17. Secure the brake caliper in place using the 2 factory bolts and tighten them down to 55 ft. lbs. of torque with an 18mm wrench.


    18. Check the level of your master cylinder and add more brake fluid if needed.


    19. Reinstall your wheels, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque and lower your Jeep back onto the ground. Your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear breaks should be in good order once again.

  2. #2
    Nothing but a Thing
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Gunnison, Colorado
    Posts
    2,172
    love the write up but i would suggest one thing! open the bleeder valve on the caliper, when you compress the piston with the c-clamp, that way you are flushing out the old fluid ( it wears out and the boiling point is lowered over time causing air in the caliper).

  3. #3
    Fresh Catch
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    CR, IA
    Posts
    17
    Might want to note that you need to pump the brake pedal a few times before you drop your Jeep in gear. First time I changed a set of brakes, I didn't know to do that and just about had to change my shorts when the pedal dropped right to the floor.

  4. #4
    Been Around the Block
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    québec
    Posts
    454

    MAINTENANCE : Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Brake Pad Replacement

    Great wrige up!
    2013 Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
    • 3.6L V6 24-Valve VVT Engine
    • 5-Speed Automatic W5A580 Transmission
    • White
    • Black Interior
    • Media Center 130 CD/MP3
    • Deep Tint Sunscreen Windows
    • Front & Rear Floor Mats
    • Power Convenience Group
    • Tow Package
    • Hard Top

  5. #5
    Been Around the Block
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    québec
    Posts
    454

    MAINTENANCE : Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Brake Pad Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by arashi View Post
    Great wrige up!
    Lol I meant write up...


    Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
    2013 Jeep JK Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
    • 3.6L V6 24-Valve VVT Engine
    • 5-Speed Automatic W5A580 Transmission
    • White
    • Black Interior
    • Media Center 130 CD/MP3
    • Deep Tint Sunscreen Windows
    • Front & Rear Floor Mats
    • Power Convenience Group
    • Tow Package
    • Hard Top

  6. #6
    Nothing but a Thing
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    The Carolinas
    Posts
    1,958
    I used it the other weekend. I got about 53,000 out of my rear brakes. Thanks for the write up Eddie!
    Gots
    17-Inch Rubi Moab Wheels
    32" BFG KM M/T's 255/75/17 Tires
    18/59 Springs & Rubi Shocks
    TF Leveling Kit
    1.5" Spidertrax Spacers
    Warn Rock Crawler Stubby & Engo 9000 Winch
    EVO Mfg Rear Bolt On "D" Ring Mounts
    Rough Country Skid Plate Kit

    “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do...
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  7. #7
    Fresh Catch
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Cumming
    Posts
    9
    Um.... Not even gonna talk about bedding in the brakes? That's a very important aspect and if you are going to make a write up I would think that would be the last thing to leave out.

  8. #8
    Addict
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    West Chester, PA
    Posts
    5,744
    Quote Originally Posted by Superman View Post
    Um.... Not even gonna talk about bedding in the brakes? That's a very important aspect and if you are going to make a write up I would think that would be the last thing to leave out.
    uhhhhhh he has a write up on bleeding the brakes...........

    http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?4...ep-JK-Wrangler
    October 16, 2013, wednesday early evening, east of the pacific ocean, selectee for truly random and boring Parking lot photo of the moment grand platinum prize winner!

    2011 JKS
    Teraflex 2.5" lift, Bilstein 5100, 35 Nitto Mud Grapplers, OR-Fab Carrier w/ ropax, EVO Rock Sliders, EVO D rings, 5.13 Gears, ARB air locker


    Awaiting install-
    On Order- 35" Mud Grapplers, ATX Chamber pro II's
    Want list- PR44, 37" mud grapplers,

  9. #9
    Administrator
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Carson City, NV
    Posts
    18,139
    Quote Originally Posted by Superman View Post
    Um.... Not even gonna talk about bedding in the brakes? That's a very important aspect and if you are going to make a write up I would think that would be the last thing to leave out.
    Um.... welcome to WAYALIFE. I see you've been on since 2012 and decided to finally make your 7th post with your last one being back in January of 2013. Being that you're such a know it all, I'm surprised that you would have even bothered to look up a write-up like this.

  10. #10
    Administrator
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Carson City, NV
    Posts
    18,139
    Quote Originally Posted by cozdude View Post
    uhhhhhh he has a write up on bleeding the brakes...........

    http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?4...ep-JK-Wrangler
    "Bedding" is a bit different than "bleeding". It's one of those steps that you'll never see a dealership or even brake shop do or even tell you to do but it's what an awesome guy like this will post up this in an effort to show how cool he is and how little I know.

 

 

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