MAINTENANCE : Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Brake Pad Replacement

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I have been able to get as much as 36,000 miles out of my Jeep JK Wrangler's rear brake pads but it's not uncommon to burn through them in as little as 15,000 miles. While I'm sure some of this can be attributed to driving style, a lot of it is also the result of an over active ESP/BAS system. Whatever the case might be, it’s a good idea to give them a look every other tire rotation and have them serviced as needed. Fortunately, this is a job that can be done with a minimal amount of tools or mechanical know how and this write-up will show you what you need to do.

What You Will Need
• Rear Brake Pads
• 11,18,19mm Wrench
• Torque Wrench
• Floor Jack
• Wheel Chocks
• Large C-Clamp
• Brake Bleeding Kit
• DOT-3 Brake Fluid

Instructions
This is a pic of everything you will get with your new brake pads. Basically, a set of 4 new pads (2 of which should have new sounders) and a set of replacement retaining clips.
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1. Open up your master cylinder and check the fluid level. If you had not been adding more fluid to it, you should see that it is low now. If you have been adding to it, you may find it necessary to bleed your rear brakes a bit before continuing. Failure to do so will result in the overflowing of your master cylinder once you install your new brake pads.
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To see a detailed write-up on how to bleed your brakes, click on the link below:
Brake Bleeding Write-Up

2. Chock your front tires, place a floor jack under the rear differential and raise the back end of until the tires come off the ground.
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3. Using a 19mm socket or a tire iron, remove the lug nuts securing your rear wheels to your axles and set them aside.
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4. Using an 18mm wrench, remove the lower bolt securing the rear brake caliper to the axle as shown in this pic.
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5. Again, using an 18mm wrench, remove the upper bolt securing the rear brake caliper to the axle as shown in this pic.
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6. With the 2 bolts removed, you should be able to slide the brake calipers off the rear rotors with ease. Carefully inspect your rotors and if they appear to be heavily scored, take them in to your local auto parts store and have them turned or replaced as needed.
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7. If this is the first time removing your rotors for service or replacement, you will need to first remove a couple of assembly washers securing it in place. These washers are attached to the wheel studs and will require a small flathead screwdriver and/or needle nose pliers to remove. Once off, you can throw them away as the will not be reused.
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8. IF you purchased new rotors, make sure to spray them with brake cleaner and wipe them down thoroughly with rag to remove the protective film on it prior to installing it. (Note: Photo is a TJ front rotor and is was used for representational purposes only)
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9. Remove the outer brake pad from the rear caliper by pushing it towards the opposite pad as shown in this pic.
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10. Place a large C-clamp over the remaining brake pad and the back of the caliper as shown above. Slowly compress the C-clamp so that the caliper piston is forced all the way back inside.
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11. Remove the inner brake pad from the rear caliper by pushing it out as shown in this pic.
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12. Make a note of how they are installed and then remove the 2 brake pad retaining clips on each side of the rear calipers as shown in this pic.
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13. Install the 4 new retaining clips that should have come with your brake pads on to the rear calipers as shown.
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14. 2 of your new brake pads will have sounder clips on them. These need to be installed onto the piston end of the caliper. Simply slide it onto the retaining clips with the pad facing inward as shown in this pic.
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15. Install the brake pads without the sounder clip onto the opposite side of the rear brake caliper. Again, all you need to do is slide it onto the retaining clips.
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16. Make sure that the brake line isn’t twisted around and then slide the brake caliper back onto the rear rotor.
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17. Secure the brake caliper in place using the 2 factory bolts and tighten them down to 55 ft. lbs. of torque with an 18mm wrench.
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18. Check the level of your master cylinder and add more brake fluid if needed.
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19. Reinstall your wheels, tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. of torque and lower your Jeep back onto the ground. Your Jeep JK Wrangler’s rear breaks should be in good order once again.
 

Tigrcky

New member
love the write up but i would suggest one thing! open the bleeder valve on the caliper, when you compress the piston with the c-clamp, that way you are flushing out the old fluid ( it wears out and the boiling point is lowered over time causing air in the caliper).
 

bumpus

New member
Might want to note that you need to pump the brake pedal a few times before you drop your Jeep in gear. First time I changed a set of brakes, I didn't know to do that and just about had to change my shorts when the pedal dropped right to the floor. :doh:
 

catahoula

Caught the Bug
I used it the other weekend. I got about 53,000 out of my rear brakes. Thanks for the write up Eddie!:thumb:
 

Superman

New member
Um.... Not even gonna talk about bedding in the brakes? That's a very important aspect and if you are going to make a write up I would think that would be the last thing to leave out.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Um.... Not even gonna talk about bedding in the brakes? That's a very important aspect and if you are going to make a write up I would think that would be the last thing to leave out.

Um.... welcome to WAYALIFE. I see you've been on since 2012 and decided to finally make your 7th post with your last one being back in January of 2013. Being that you're such a know it all, I'm surprised that you would have even bothered to look up a write-up like this.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
"Bedding" is a bit different than "bleeding". It's one of those steps that you'll never see a dealership or even brake shop do or even tell you to do but it's what an awesome guy like this will post up this in an effort to show how cool he is and how little I know.

:doh: i read bleeding lol thanks for the catch eddie
 

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
Great writeup...just a minor trick you can use. If you have been adding fluid during the life of the pads, as eddie said, when you push the pistons back, you'll overflow the master cylinder...so, while you are pushing the piston back, push it in and when you hit the max line, suck fluid out using a turkey baster. Works quickly and well. Just don't drip anything on the paint.
 

Superman

New member
"Bedding" is a bit different than "bleeding". It's one of those steps that you'll never see a dealership or even brake shop do or even tell you to do but it's what an awesome guy like this will post up this in an effort to show how cool he is and how little I know.

I was merely pointing out that I felt something is missing, no need to get butthurt. You're the one who turned it into something personal. And I'm sorry but I have worked in a brake shop and we did bed in brakes. And a lot of manufacturers tell you to do so. But you're a forum admin and make really cool Jeep vids so you must be the world's leading authority on Jeeps. :beer:

Also, was on jk-forum for quite a while so not exactly like I'm new. And I don't think number of posts is any indication of your knowledge base.
 

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
I was merely pointing out that I felt something is missing, no need to get butthurt. You're the one who turned it into something personal. And I'm sorry but I have worked in a brake shop and we did bed in brakes. And a lot of manufacturers tell you to do so. But you're a forum admin and make really cool Jeep vids so you must be the world's leading authority on Jeeps. :beer:

Also, was on jk-forum for quite a while so not exactly like I'm new. And I don't think number of posts is any indication of your knowledge base.

Generally speaking, you don't need to bed OEM or OEM compound pads. Bedding is generally a good idea on ceramic/race pads, since they have a little glazing to them. I have never EVER bedded any OEM brakes, and have never had a single issue. It won't hurt anything, but you're making it sound like if someone changes OEM pads to new ones, they will crash into a tree if they don't bed them. Sometimes, it's not what you write, it's how you write it. Just my .02
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I was merely pointing out that I felt something is missing, no need to get butthurt. You're the one who turned it into something personal.

:cheesy: Yeah, that's all you did Superman. You just came on after more than a year just to point out something you felt was "missing" but made no mention of what bedding is or why you think it's needed even though you think it's a "very important" aspect and how it "would be the last thing to leave out" in your opinion.

And I'm sorry but I have worked in a brake shop and we did bed in brakes.

Well, you are saying it on the internet so I guess that makes it true. :thumb:

...a lot of manufacturers tell you to do so.

A lot of manufacturers also make pads using compounds other than OE.

But you're a forum admin and make really cool Jeep vids so you must be the world's leading authority on Jeeps. :beer:

Nah, I've just stayed in a Holiday Inn Express once. You're the self-proclaimed expert here :beer:

Also, was on jk-forum for quite a while so not exactly like I'm new. And I don't think number of posts is any indication of your knowledge base.

Sorry, still don't know you from Adam. Never said that your post count was a barometer of your knowledge, just that you've been a member here since 2012, made your last back in January of last year and that you made your first one since then just to say "Um.... Not even gonna talk about bedding in the brakes? That's a very important aspect and if you are going to make a write up I would think that would be the last thing to leave out." You've already proclaimed that you were an expert on the internet so it must be true. BONJOUR!
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Generally speaking, you don't need to bed OEM or OEM compound pads. Bedding is generally a good idea on ceramic/race pads, since they have a little glazing to them. I have never EVER bedded any OEM brakes, and have never had a single issue. It won't hurt anything, but you're making it sound like if someone changes OEM pads to new ones, they will crash into a tree if they don't bed them. Sometimes, it's not what you write, it's how you write it. Just my .02

Um... You mean to tell me there's a difference between OE compound pads and ceramic/race pads? Say it isn't so!! I can't believe you would actually say that you've never bedded any of your OE brakes or that you've never had an issue with them. I mean, Superman would never do that! :naw:
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
I was merely pointing out that I felt something is missing, no need to get butthurt. You're the one who turned it into something personal. And I'm sorry but I have worked in a brake shop and we did bed in brakes. And a lot of manufacturers tell you to do so. But you're a forum admin and make really cool Jeep vids so you must be the world's leading authority on Jeeps. :beer:

Also, was on jk-forum for quite a while so not exactly like I'm new. And I don't think number of posts is any indication of your knowledge base.

I'll make it personal, your a troll. Move along and go play somewhere else.
 

gtony12

Caught the Bug
:thinking: I never took my Brake Pads to bed before, but I will tonight. :cheesy: Sorry couldn't resist!:beer:
 
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