My new to me EVO built rig

highoctane

highoctane

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jeffj said:
I ordered 216 inches for the rear and I'm not 100% for the front, but I think got 48 inches for the front. I hope this helps, I couldn't find my order in my e-mail.


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That helps a bunch. I knew the 48" would work for the front, but wasn't sure on the rear. I'm at work in Kabul until June so can't just go out and measure my Jeep. Going to order these now.


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jeffj

jeffj

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On my pro rock 60 in the front. Do I need to drive with my front hubs engaged to break in the gears? I don't think it's been driven much with them engaged. And I thought maybe I should do that to heat them up, then change they gear oil.


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Mybadjk

Mybadjk

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wayoflife said:
The small lower plug is a weep hole. You want to fill the differential till the fluid starts to ooze out of it.

That being said, you also NEED to remove the plug on TOP of the housing near the pinion and add fluid there as well. I typically start there and add in close to a quart, reinstall the bolt and then finish up through the main fill port. If you have an ARB, I would recommend you use a heavy weight dino. Do NOT use synthetic as it will ruin the ARB o-ring.
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Well that's good to know. 4wp recommended Dino for break in and use syn afterwards. Glad it's only 20$ for oil.


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SDG

SDG

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jeffj said:
On my pro rock 60 in the front. Do I need to drive with my front hubs engaged to break in the gears? I don't think it's been driven much with them engaged. And I thought maybe I should do that to heat them up, then change they gear oil.


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Thats what was reccomend to me. Lock the hubs, keep in 2 wd. Do 65 or less first 100 miles, then have at it for the next 400...

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wayoflife

wayoflife

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Staff member
jeffj said:
Great, thanks for the good info. That's what I was thinking, but just wanted to make sure.
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I should note that unless you're planning on doing any wheeling and by doing so, applying pressure on your gears, they will not do a whole lot of anything in terms of breaking in. I guarantee you that you can drive with your hubs locked for a couple of thousand miles and your gear oil will still come out looking like new. That is not to say that you shouldn't do this, just that it shouldn't concern you when you drain your diff and it still looks clear and golden :crazyeyes:
 
jeffj

jeffj

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wayoflife said:
I should note that unless you're planning on doing any wheeling and by doing so, applying pressure on your gears, they will not do a whole lot of anything in terms of breaking in. I guarantee you that you can drive with your hubs locked for a couple of thousand miles and your gear oil will still come out looking like new. That is not to say that you shouldn't do this, just that it shouldn't concern you when you drain your diff and it still looks clear and golden :crazyeyes:
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So just making sure I understand correctly. Are you saying there's not much break in going on in the front on the road with the hubs locked. And there's more break in on the trail. That's the way I understood what you said.
 
DWiggles

DWiggles

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jeffj said:
So just making sure I understand correctly. Are you saying there's not much break in going on in the front on the road with the hubs locked. And there's more break in on the trail. That's the way I understood what you said.
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when I was breaking in my gears, I would put the jeep in 4wd anytime the road was relatively straight, for the very reason of attempting to work the drive side of the front setup, rather than just coasting the whole time. I cant honestly say doing that made ANY difference, but :idontknow: made logical sense to me.

If you are REALLY worried about it, you could pull the rear drive shaft out for 500 miles while you "break in" the front gears?
 
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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
jeffj said:
So just making sure I understand correctly. Are you saying there's not much break in going on in the front on the road with the hubs locked. And there's more break in on the trail. That's the way I understood what you said.
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Yup, you understood correctly. Locking your hubs will get your gears spinning but it'll be passive in that your wheels would be spinning them but your driveshaft wouldn't be driving them.
 
highoctane

highoctane

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I saw a few posts back someone mentioned 4wp recommending dino oil for break in and synthetic oil afterwards. To be clear, you do not want to put synthetic oil in axles with ARB lockers. It will break down and deteriorate the rubber diaphragm in the lockers. Dino oil only.

Edit: I saw Eddie already mentioned this as well. Didn't see that post at first.


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jeffj

jeffj

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M_Savage said:
when are you going to get this thing out on the trails? looking forward to seeing it be put to use!
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Hoping to officially get it out at the end of April. Today was the 3rd day I had it out on the roads. It's crazy how it handles with 40's. I have three new tires coming tomorrow, from bad where and took the hard top off today too. I'm getting there just a lot of little things I'm trying to get done.


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Mybadjk

Mybadjk

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highoctane said:
I saw a few posts back someone mentioned 4wp recommending dino oil for break in and synthetic oil afterwards. To be clear, you do not want to put synthetic oil in axles with ARB lockers. It will break down and deteriorate the rubber diaphragm in the lockers. Dino oil only.

Edit: I saw Eddie already mentioned this as well. Didn't see that post at first.


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Thanks. Planning on changing it out this weekend.


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jeffj

jeffj

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IMG_3121.jpg

I have 3 new tires coming today. I'm pretty sure these tire have only 6000 miles on them and are badly wore on the outside. I'm thinking it's probably from to much toe. What's your guys opinion?


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