Axle question.

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
Would a wheel hub be able to hold wheels without axle shafts? Contemplated swapping over knuckles to a d44 housing and driving it from az to Vegas.


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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
If you are referring to running wheels on your unit bearings and without axle shafts, yes, you can do this on a JK but you will want to plug your axle tubes with a rag or something like it to prevent gear oil leaking out or dirt getting in.
 

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
If you are referring to running wheels on your unit bearings and without axle shafts, yes, you can do this on a JK but you will want to plug your axle tubes with a rag or something like it to prevent gear oil leaking out or dirt getting in.

I planned on plugging the axle. Housing would be empty. And would be running 37s. Thanks Eddie!


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Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
What about unit bearings? Will I have to get new unit bearings to fit the 35 spline shafts? Or are the liters the same? Also i have a 13' and the axle will be an 08. The unit bearings are different, but are the 07-11 comparable with the 13' years?


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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
So far as I know, the unit bearings are the same. The speed sensors on them are technically the same too but 11-up have different length wires and with different couplers along the length of it. The 35 splines are only 35 at the differential. The stub shafts are the same as factory. In other words, you will be using the same unit bearings.
 

black pearl

Hooked
Just out of Curiosity and to have the information in my head if ever needed on the trail if one were to break a front axel shaft and need to pull it on the trail to get out could you still engage the remaining shaft if needed with the lockers or would it be best to not have that axel engaged at all? Like pulling the front driveline to still be able to use low range gearing ... sorry if it seams like a silly question


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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Just out of Curiosity and to have the information in my head if ever needed on the trail if one were to break a front axel shaft and need to pull it on the trail to get out could you still engage the remaining shaft if needed with the lockers or would it be best to not have that axel engaged at all? Like pulling the front driveline to still be able to use low range gearing ... sorry if it seams like a silly question

If you want another broken shaft, yeah, you could engage it.

Best to wheel out in 2WD and with the help of friends.
 

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
Couple other questions for an axle build.

Lockers come with bearings and shims, right? So not master install kit?

I know I'll need a pinion kit and seal.

I'll need outer and inner axle seals?
What brand of outer seals? Oem or aftermarket?

Should be about it?




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WJCO

Meme King
Couple other questions for an axle build.

Lockers come with bearings and shims, right? So not master install kit?

I know I'll need a pinion kit and seal.

I'll need outer and inner axle seals?
What brand of outer seals? Oem or aftermarket?

Should be about it?




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Lockers usually come with shims. Whatever is included will be listed.

A master install kit is different. It comes with bearings, ring bolts, pinion seal, shims, races, crush sleeve. Some lockers will include the carrier bearings already. If you have anywhere over 40kish, put new bearings in anyway, it's worth it.

Axle seals aren't included at all. Parts and labor are extra. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do the front ones while you got everything apart. I would recommend Mopar if you can. In the front, they require a little more labor as they're right next to the pumpkin. In the rear, they are on the end of your axle shaft and you have to press off the bearing to get them off. Personally on the rear, if they aren't leaking, may be worth just leaving them alone. If you upgrade rear shafts in the future, sometimes they come with bearing and seal already installed.
 

Mybadjk

Caught the Bug
Lockers usually come with shims. Whatever is included will be listed.

A master install kit is different. It comes with bearings, ring bolts, pinion seal, shims, races, crush sleeve. Some lockers will include the carrier bearings already. If you have anywhere over 40kish, put new bearings in anyway, it's worth it.

Axle seals aren't included at all. Parts and labor are extra. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do the front ones while you got everything apart. I would recommend Mopar if you can. In the front, they require a little more labor as they're right next to the pumpkin. In the rear, they are on the end of your axle shaft and you have to press off the bearing to get them off. Personally on the rear, if they aren't leaking, may be worth just leaving them alone. If you upgrade rear shafts in the future, sometimes they come with bearing and seal already installed.

Do you know if I can run an Eaton in a front rubicon housing?


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