Upper intake torque question

Coop

Coop

Caught the Bug
myrddin said:
Agree 100%

Would it be dumb to get a set of ARP bolts?


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I was going through this last weekend and stopped. I went and got a tap and chased the threads. The tap was snug too. Kept adding oil and threaded and unthreaded until I got through the threads all the way. I was amazed at the junk I cleaned out. The bolts threaded in well after that exercise.


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Coop

Coop

Caught the Bug
By the way it's never dumb to use ARP bolts.


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M

myrddin

Member
Thnx buddy... I might as well pick up a set... as long as I can get the right size. This should be easy... I'm just paranoid at this point... the one that broke was the front left bolt... easy to get to since I had threads to turn on... all the others would be a nightmare. I just want them to tighten up so I can move on.


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Coop

Coop

Caught the Bug
myrddin said:
Thnx buddy... I might as well pick up a set... as long as I can get the right size. This should be easy... I'm just paranoid at this point... the one that broke was the front left bolt... easy to get to since I had threads to turn on... all the others would be a nightmare. I just want them to tighten up so I can move on.


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It just sounds like you've got sealant or gunk in the holes. If you don't chase the threads, you need to go through the process of threading and unthreading the bolts very carefully until you get the bolts all the way to the point of applying torque. The nice thing about a chase is it has grooves for the junk on the threads to go.


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M

myrddin

Member
Makes sense... I will run a same size tap in to be sure it's clean... the back bolts are evil... especially the rear passenger side... it's covered up and an absolute pain to get to... I can't find 100 threaded ARP bolts... I'll figure out something. This should be easy...


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M

myrddin

Member
I did find these, but I'm not sure how I feel about stainless steel bolts in aluminum.

ARP 770-1003 Stainless Steel M6 x 1 Thread 30mm UHL 12-Point Bolt with 8mm Socket and Washer, (Set of 5)


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Coop

Coop

Caught the Bug
myrddin said:
I did find these, but I'm not sure how I feel about stainless steel bolts in aluminum.

ARP 770-1003 Stainless Steel M6 x 1 Thread 30mm UHL 12-Point Bolt with 8mm Socket and Washer, (Set of 5)


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Stainless in aluminum is good. It's ferrous metals in aluminum that is not good and has a reaction. One thing I always check with stainless is its non-magnetic property. High quality stainless steel is non-magnetic, lesser stainless will still be slightly magnetic.


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M

myrddin

Member
Coop said:
Stainless in aluminum is good. It's ferrous metals in aluminum that is not good and has a reaction. One thing I always check with stainless is its non-magnetic property. High quality stainless steel is non-magnetic, lesser stainless will still be slightly magnetic.


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Thanks buddy! I'm still looking but may end up going that route. I appreciate all of everyone's feedback... kind of an odd situation. I will let you know how it ends up...


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Coop

Coop

Caught the Bug
myrddin said:
Thanks buddy! I'm still looking but may end up going that route. I appreciate all of everyone's feedback... kind of an odd situation. I will let you know how it ends up...


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I know it's a struggle but I highly advise taking the time to chase the threads. The ARPs are probably stainless for this application in aluminum. You may still need an anti-corrosion dressing on the threads, as heat and moisture can cause a reaction even with stainless steel.
Good luck with your struggle. Been there.


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M

myrddin

Member
I ended up going to Ace hardware and getting a set of 8 flange bolts with heavy duty fender washers and put them in a few min ago... they all torqued up with zero problems... I may of just had one bad bolt that ended up making me paranoid... not sure but at least they are tight now...

v

Thanks again for everyone's thoughts and assistance! I hope I can return the favor some time...

Take care.


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Coop

Coop

Caught the Bug
Glad to hear it worked out! Way to hang in there!


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jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
myrddin said:
Yeah it's the plenum (plastic to alum) I did follow the sequence and a few tightened up fine but like 4 of them in not sure about I guess I still need to tighten them...

Check this out:





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I had a craftsman torque wrench that looked like that - tossed it in the trash after snapping the 1st bolt I torqued that was only 96 in-lbs. Ordered a Tekton, could feel a difference in how it tightened and it "clicked" like it was supposed to.

I tried the craftsman on a higher torque bolt just to make sure it wasn't me but it would never "click" at any torque range. :naw:
 
T

Testlab

New member
Just FYI, you aren't crazy. That torque value is around half of the yield value that Holo-Krome calls out for a standard alloy bolt. Regardless of what is resisting torque (the bolt bottoming out, or the threads binding), you should have felt the wrench click if it wasn't a loser bolt, or you have a wrench that isn't clicking. If you're local, I'd be happy to check and adjust the calibration on your wrench.

Other useless tidbit of info for the day: The tolerance on a good torque wrench is +/-4% of setpoint clockwise, and +/-6% of setpoint counterclockwise. Assuming your wrench is even close to in calibration, it too wouldn't put you anywhere near where the bolt should yield, let alone fracture.

Sometimes low flyers make it through. Glad it was an easy one to get out!
 
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