Correct 1350 Drive Shaft?

Wert7676

New member
I broke my 1310 rear on the Rubicon with stock 4.10's in the axles. I had replacement u-joints. What I didn't have was a new CV H-block or t-case yoke. If a fellow wayalifer didn't have a new rear drive shaft if have been screwed either way. I wasn't hard on the gas or anything else. As Eddie mentioned build it to not break rather than building in a "fuse".

Sent from my 831C using WAYALIFE mobile app
Exactly my point. 1310 with 4.10 gears is to weak and over fused as I stated. There is a reason jeep put a 1330 and rheppa joints for the stock shafts. The 1310 with 4.10 gears is to weak. I stated that 1350 with stock gears is a good match. That sucks that it broke at the transfer case side.
 

Wert7676

New member
Just to clear up some possible confusion.

I was looking to build my jeep with a 3.5in lift, 37s, 5.13 gears, and C gussets. I would like to run my stock D44's as long as possible and may never upgrade to 60's because of my driving style.

I was thinking the 1350 spicer solids was the way to go, but wanted to make sure it was the right one for a D44 and my goals with 3.5" lift, 37s, etc.

Thanks
For your original question about greaseable or non greaseable. It is your choice. They have pros and cons on both. For greaseable the cons: it is weaker, requires consistent greasing. Pros it should last longer if maintained. Non greaseable cons: shorter life especially in dusty areas or if used for water crossings and in mud, weakened from wear caused by lack of service. Pro: stronger(initially), no maintenence. My opinion is go non serviceable they will last a long time and the wear should show up as a vibration long before failure. When mine failed on the highway I had been driving it for months with a vibration and ignored it, lesson learned. You probably don't need to worry about strength either way with 1350. They are plenty strong and will not be a weak point as many have stated.
Sorry I went on my "engineering" tangent. Guess I should have stayed on topic rather than trying to explain why 1310 might have advantages for my personal build.
Being that you said your may not go 60s due to your driving style. Go with 1350 for sure. If you do blow up your 44 you got an excuse to upgrade and don't have to buy a shaft and axle at the same time. But if your drive style is on point you won't break a 1310 with 5.13 gears. however you could easily with 4.10 gears. Driver skill will prevent damage but it won't help if you have a weak link. Jesse3638 is proof of that. He was easy on it but a 1310 is too weak for 4.10 gears. it's a fact proven with math and in practical application.
Truth is you got to drive your vehicle. If you got a dana 60 / 80 setup hammer down and let that truck bounce. If you got a dana 35 /44 you got to know your limits. Go easy on the throttle and don't bounce around. Don't shock load the vehicle. Don't be afraid to back up and try a new line. Some times this may not be an option. This is when failure happens. Your future setup includes 5.13 gears and 1350 u joints. I bet you will be fine with that. The stock axles are pretty tough and will take a lot of punishment. Glad you are going to do the c gussets also, but axle reinforcement is a different topic.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Just to clear up some possible confusion.

I was looking to build my jeep with a 3.5in lift, 37s, 5.13 gears, and C gussets. I would like to run my stock D44's as long as possible and may never upgrade to 60's because of my driving style.

I was thinking the 1350 spicer solids was the way to go, but wanted to make sure it was the right one for a D44 and my goals with 3.5" lift, 37s, etc.

Thanks

What I can tell you is that about 10 years ago, everyone was running 1310 shafts including me. It's what people were running back in the TJ days and hey, it would act as a "fuse". What I can tell you is that there is a reason why so many of us now run and recommend 1350 shafts and that's because over the last 10 years, we have seen plenty of blown fuses but by comparison, few blown shaft or ring and pinions and this IN SPITE OF running 1350. If numbers more than experience helps you to sleep better at night, a 1310 is what you want.

Speed will kill your factory 44 front axle housing more than any rock crawling you could ever do. So long as you take it easy, you should be able to get yours to last with 37's for a while and really, if a time comes when you find it necessary to replace, you can always get a ProRock 44 made for Rubicon internals for about $1900. That's what I ended up doing on Rubicat.
 
What I can tell you is that about 10 years ago, everyone was running 1310 shafts including me. It's what people were running back in the TJ days and hey, it would act as a "fuse". What I can tell you is that there is a reason why so many of us now run and recommend 1350 shafts and that's because over the last 10 years, we have seen plenty of blown fuses but by comparison, few blown shaft or ring and pinions and this IN SPITE OF running 1350. If numbers more than experience helps you to sleep better at night, a 1310 is what you want.

Speed will kill your factory 44 front axle housing more than any rock crawling you could ever do. So long as you take it easy, you should be able to get yours to last with 37's for a while and really, if a time comes when you find it necessary to replace, you can always get a ProRock 44 made for Rubicon internals for about $1900. That's what I ended up doing on Rubicat.
Appreciate it! I'll stick with the experience side. I personally feel the most valuable wisdom/knowledge is gained from experiences. Unfortunately, sometimes they are bad experiences, but still learning something. I'm going to go with the 1350s solids.

I'm all about crunching numbers, but sometimes that doesn't take in to account for unknown variables. With myself being a "rookie" and not knowing jacksh** compared to most of you guys, I'll sleep better knowing what the "veteran" guys have seen and experienced.

Thanks for all the input though!






Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Wert7676

New member
I've seen two blown differentials this year. Dana 44 front broken ring gear. And a Chevy s10 rear end. The carrier fell apart. It actually blew a hole through the top of the housing. The dana 44 we have no clue what caused it. The s10 was doing a donut spinning tires and hit a pot hole. Blew up right there. Cool pics I thought you might enjoy.
FB_IMG_1490815970246.jpeg FB_IMG_1490815823289.jpeg
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I've seen two blown differentials this year. Dana 44 front broken ring gear. And a Chevy s10 rear end. The carrier fell apart. It actually blew a hole through the top of the housing. The dana 44 we have no clue what caused it. The s10 was doing a donut spinning tires and hit a pot hole. Blew up right there. Cool pics I thought you might enjoy.

Right, because none of us have ever seen anything like it before let alone in person. :rolleyes2:

:yawn37: Look, we get it, you want to have a "fuse" on your Jeep just in case you do donuts and hit a pot hole or have no clue what would cause your ring and pinion to blow. Just because none of us are buying in to what you choose to believe doesn't mean any of us are trying to convince you what you should do with your Jeep.
 
Top Bottom