Correct 1350 Drive Shaft?

jesse3638 said:

1310 is weaker that the stock shafts as I recall the stock shafts are equal to a 1330. I talked to my local driveline shop and went with solid u-joints when had him rebuild them. Not only do I not have to grease them the are stronger than greasable u-joints. My spicer 1350 u-joints on my Nissan Titan had 120k on them. I replaced them only because I had the drive shaft out to replace my carrier bearing. Once I pulled the first u-joint I realized they didn't need to be replaced. Probably could have gotten another 100k out of them as the grease was still like new.

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Wert7676 said:

I got the adams 1310 extreme duty on mine.the differences between the heavy and extreme is greasable or non grease able. The extreme is solid instead of having holes for the grease. If you are good about greasing every oil change get the heavy duty with the the 1350. I got the 1310 so I know where my driveline will break. Rather change u joint then a ring and pinion or axle shaft. But with your rcvs you should be fine. Sorry for the double post my dog hit reply and I couldn't figure out how to edit

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Wert7676 said:

You are right the stock rheppa joints are stronger than the 1310. Problem is they overheat from opperating at higher angles caused by lifted jeeps. I'm with you on the non grease able lasting a long time. My dodge finally threw a stock u joint after 250k miles. I'm all for the non grease able.

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Outdoorsman_JK said:

Setup: 16' Rubicon, D44, 4.10s, automatic

I'm confused to which 1350 front drive shaft to get. I saw a couple of different options from Adams (spicer solid, spicer solid CV driveshaft with Ultimate 60s, CV greasable u-joint), but wanted to make sure it was the right fit. Future plans are... 3.5'' lift, 37s, and 5.13 gears.

Which is this the correct front drive shaft for my Jeep? I'm debating J.E. Reel or Adams currently. I didn't list J.E. Reel's because there is only one option.

ADAMS DRIVESHAFT JK Front 1350 CV DRIVESHAFT GREASABLE U-JOINT [HEAVY DUTY SERIES]
http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.c...iveshaft-greasable-u-joint-heavy-duty-series/

ADAMS DRIVESHAFT JK Front 1350 CV DRIVESHAFT SOLID U-JOINT [EXTREME DUTY SERIES]
http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.c...driveshaft-solid-u-joint-extreme-duty-series/

Thanks guys

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highoctane said:

I believe he's talking about the u-joint on the axle side of driveshaft. It has a u-joint that is a 1330 sized joint, which should be stronger than the 1310 u-joint. The repezza is at the xfer case end of the shaft.

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wayoflife said:

Yup, the one and only U-joint that the JK uses on a factory drive shaft is up front, at the pinion and it is a 1330. This is stronger than a 1310.

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WJCO said:

Do both the Rubicon and non-rubicon both use the same 1330 joint at the pinion? Regardless of D30 or D44?

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wayoflife said:

Yup, the one and only U-joint that the JK uses on a factory drive shaft is up front, at the pinion and it is a 1330. This is stronger than a 1310.

From experience, I also agree that it makes no sense to me to try and build with fuses in mind. Ideally, I have seen that it's always best to try and build not to break, period. But, that's just me.

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Wert7676 said:

1310- max torque 800 lbs-ft. Break torque 1,600 lbs-ft

1350max torque 1,240 lbs-ft. Break torque 2,260 lbs-ft

Dana 44 rear max output torque is 5000, front 4400.
800 x 5.13(gear ratio) = 4100 and 8200 for failure.
1240 ×5.13 = 6360 and 11600 for failure.
If my 1310 u joint breaks I pushed the axle 1.64 times higher than its rated load for the rear and near double in front. . With 1350 it would be 2.3 times rear and 2.6 times front . Making the ring and pinion likely the weak point.
For a dana 60 like he wants to do he would be fine 6000 ft lbs rated. 1240 x 5.38 =6600 I'd say that's a good match.
For stock 4.10 gears with 1310: it would have a rated 3280 output and 6560 break that's over fused and a weak point. With 1350 and 4.10 gears: 5080 and 9260 break. Similar to a 1310 with 5.13 gears and a good match. So for him with 1350 and stock gearing he is making a good choice. He wants dana 60s in the future so 1350 is a good match after the upgrade. He should definitely go with 1350 for his build. And in my opinion solid u joints not serviceable. Solid u joints will last plenty long.
For my build with 5.13 gears 1310s are a good match and not a weak point. But going 1350 would likely break teeth before braking the u joint. I'd rather break a cheap u joint that is fixable on the trail. than fix a ring an pinion or an axle shaft. carrying 4 spare shafts would be expensive and take a ton of space. U joints fit in the glove box.


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Wert7676 said:

1310- max torque 800 lbs-ft. Break torque 1,600 lbs-ft

1350max torque 1,240 lbs-ft. Break torque 2,260 lbs-ft

Dana 44 rear max output torque is 5000, front 4400.
800 x 5.13(gear ratio) = 4100 and 8200 for failure.
1240 ×5.13 = 6360 and 11600 for failure.
If my 1310 u joint breaks I pushed the axle 1.64 times higher than its rated load for the rear and near double in front. . With 1350 it would be 2.3 times rear and 2.6 times front . Making the ring and pinion likely the weak point.
For a dana 60 like he wants to do he would be fine 6000 ft lbs rated. 1240 x 5.38 =6600 I'd say that's a good match.
For stock 4.10 gears with 1310: it would have a rated 3280 output and 6560 break that's over fused and a weak point. With 1350 and 4.10 gears: 5080 and 9260 break. Similar to a 1310 with 5.13 gears and a good match. So for him with 1350 and stock gearing he is making a good choice. He wants dana 60s in the future so 1350 is a good match after the upgrade. He should definitely go with 1350 for his build. And in my opinion solid u joints not serviceable. Solid u joints will last plenty long.
For my build with 5.13 gears 1310s are a good match and not a weak point. But going 1350 would likely break teeth before braking the u joint. I'd rather break a cheap u joint that is fixable on the trail. than fix a ring an pinion or an axle shaft. carrying 4 spare shafts would be expensive and take a ton of space. U joints fit in the glove box.


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zimm said:

I went 1350 solid. Stronger than stock. Doesn't need to be greased. I don't need a "fuse" in my driveshaft to blow. On the slim chance I nuke the ring and pinion in my D44(I don't hammer down in 4 low) I'll upgrade the whole axle. I did have to trim the metal "ear" that's holding the shift cable on the automatic. It's in the instructions. It would have been 100x easier to trim before putting the shaft in, but I didn't notice until it was all installed and I had a scraping noise when turning the drive shaft. I got it with the longest blade I had on a sawzall, but trim before the install and you'll be golden.

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Outdoorsman_JK said:

Did you upgrade your R&P on your D44? What's your setup currently?

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Wert7676 said:

1310- max torque 800 lbs-ft. Break torque 1,600 lbs-ft

1350max torque 1,240 lbs-ft. Break torque 2,260 lbs-ft

Dana 44 rear max output torque is 5000, front 4400.
800 x 5.13(gear ratio) = 4100 and 8200 for failure.
1240 ×5.13 = 6360 and 11600 for failure.
If my 1310 u joint breaks I pushed the axle 1.64 times higher than its rated load for the rear and near double in front. . With 1350 it would be 2.3 times rear and 2.6 times front . Making the ring and pinion likely the weak point.
For a dana 60 like he wants to do he would be fine 6000 ft lbs rated. 1240 x 5.38 =6600 I'd say that's a good match.
For stock 4.10 gears with 1310: it would have a rated 3280 output and 6560 break that's over fused and a weak point. With 1350 and 4.10 gears: 5080 and 9260 break. Similar to a 1310 with 5.13 gears and a good match. So for him with 1350 and stock gearing he is making a good choice. He wants dana 60s in the future so 1350 is a good match after the upgrade. He should definitely go with 1350 for his build. And in my opinion solid u joints not serviceable. Solid u joints will last plenty long.
For my build with 5.13 gears 1310s are a good match and not a weak point. But going 1350 would likely break teeth before braking the u joint. I'd rather break a cheap u joint that is fixable on the trail. than fix a ring an pinion or an axle shaft. carrying 4 spare shafts would be expensive and take a ton of space. U joints fit in the glove box.


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Wert7676 said:

1310- max torque 800 lbs-ft. Break torque 1,600 lbs-ft

1350max torque 1,240 lbs-ft. Break torque 2,260 lbs-ft

Dana 44 rear max output torque is 5000, front 4400.
800 x 5.13(gear ratio) = 4100 and 8200 for failure.
1240 ×5.13 = 6360 and 11600 for failure.
If my 1310 u joint breaks I pushed the axle 1.64 times higher than its rated load for the rear and near double in front. . With 1350 it would be 2.3 times rear and 2.6 times front . Making the ring and pinion likely the weak point.
For a dana 60 like he wants to do he would be fine 6000 ft lbs rated. 1240 x 5.38 =6600 I'd say that's a good match.
For stock 4.10 gears with 1310: it would have a rated 3280 output and 6560 break that's over fused and a weak point. With 1350 and 4.10 gears: 5080 and 9260 break. Similar to a 1310 with 5.13 gears and a good match. So for him with 1350 and stock gearing he is making a good choice. He wants dana 60s in the future so 1350 is a good match after the upgrade. He should definitely go with 1350 for his build. And in my opinion solid u joints not serviceable. Solid u joints will last plenty long.
For my build with 5.13 gears 1310s are a good match and not a weak point. But going 1350 would likely break teeth before braking the u joint. I'd rather break a cheap u joint that is fixable on the trail. than fix a ring an pinion or an axle shaft. carrying 4 spare shafts would be expensive and take a ton of space. U joints fit in the glove box.


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