Poison Spyder Steel Crusher Flares

gmb425

gmb425

New member
wayoflife said:
What I can tell you is that I have been running trimmed factory flares on Moby for almost 10 years now. I had run Bushwacker flat fenders on Nemo, our old Sunburst Orange JKU that we used to have but when we got Rubicat, I went back to trimmed factory fenders. During all that time, I have seen ZERO body damage caused by my fenders as they will bend, fold or tear off well before they can do any damage. Granted, I'm just a mall crawler who never wheels his Jeep so you can take all that for what it's worth.
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I would like to save money and spend it on the important parts of my build. Crossing fenders off my list! Thank you.



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N

NotInStock

Member
Aluminum vs. Steel....

Well, as I cannot see another thread to bring this up I will use this one or maybe just start a new one>>>

If you are to go with the tubular fender flares what would be better, Aluminum or Steel...

When i have asked around I get varying opinions.... From what most say, if you only mall crawl then use the aluminum to save weight but if you really do take the vehicle on the trail then go with the Steel... What are the thoughts?? I like the thought of saving a little weight but really what is the 40-50 pounds when leveraged against the over 5,000 pounds of a JKU. Also, with the aluminum you would never worry about rust... But everyone says the Steel will hold up to rock bashing a lot better...

Also, if going to the tubular flares what would brand/etc would be the strongest??
 
Basscat

Basscat

Member
NotInStock said:
Well, as I cannot see another thread to bring this up I will use this one or maybe just start a new one>>>

If you are to go with the tubular fender flares what would be better, Aluminum or Steel...

When i have asked around I get varying opinions.... From what most say, if you only mall crawl then use the aluminum to save weight but if you really do take the vehicle on the trail then go with the Steel... What are the thoughts?? I like the thought of saving a little weight but really what is the 40-50 pounds when leveraged against the over 5,000 pounds of a JKU. Also, with the aluminum you would never worry about rust... But everyone says the Steel will hold up to rock bashing a lot better...

Also, if going to the tubular flares what would brand/etc would be the strongest??
Click to expand...

I'm currently running a Poison Spyder aluminum flares and rocker to save on sprung weight. I also run the Genright aluminum tire carrier for the same reason. I do run steel front and rear bumpers though as they are much more in the line of fire when rock crawling. I've had no issues with the PS aluminum flares. Keep in mind they do have good brackets which tie them into the subframe really well.


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AdventuresWithReid

AdventuresWithReid

Member
When everyone is talking about body damage, they are talking about the actual sheet metal fender? Or the actual metal body of the jeep? I feel like if one ran the narrow PSC crusher flares.. it would be minimal flare and really would be better to hit the flare at that point than rub against the fender/hood? or fender/hard/soft top

Im thinking about getting the aluminum narrow front/rears just so there is something there to rub before it starts rubbing the jeep fenders..
 
notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
AdventuresWithReid said:
When everyone is talking about body damage, they are talking about the actual sheet metal fender? Or the actual metal body of the jeep? I feel like if one ran the narrow PSC crusher flares.. it would be minimal flare and really would be better to hit the flare at that point than rub against the fender/hood? or fender/hard/soft top

Im thinking about getting the aluminum narrow front/rears just so there is something there to rub before it starts rubbing the jeep fenders..
Click to expand...

Body damage.


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Basscat

Basscat

Member
AdventuresWithReid said:
When everyone is talking about body damage, they are talking about the actual sheet metal fender? Or the actual metal body of the jeep? I feel like if one ran the narrow PSC crusher flares.. it would be minimal flare and really would be better to hit the flare at that point than rub against the fender/hood? or fender/hard/soft top

Im thinking about getting the aluminum narrow front/rears just so there is something there to rub before it starts rubbing the jeep fenders..
Click to expand...

Couple of things you might want to consider:
1) make sure you have the legally required fender coverage for your area. It varies based on local laws and/or what you want to try and get away with?

2) that same fender coverage, or lack there of, will completely change what gets tossed up into your Jeep. Just driving down the street after a rain shower with the top down will be much different.

3) regardless of fender width any bump or minor collision can transmit damage to the body or subframe of the fender.

I think when most people talk "body damage" they mean minus bumpers and fender flaps.


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Journeyman

Journeyman

New member
zimm said:
I find this interesting as I've never touched a bumper while rock crawling, but I've hit everything else....
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Come out west yo. I've done it several times this week. Approach angle on a jeep is great, but when there's a six foot vertical wall in front of you its gonna happen from time to time.


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notnalc68

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
By body damage, we mean the metal fender will transmit an impact to the body of the Jeep. I haven't wheeled as much as a lot of guys here have, but I have hit my stock fenders a few times. They flex and don't damage the body. I wasn't talking about throwing up rocks.


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AdventuresWithReid

AdventuresWithReid

Member
I would have to assume that the aluminum flare would be the better bet if choosing between steel or aluminum then because it would just fold in if that kind of force being pushed against it as opposed to damaging the body of the jeep.

As far as rocks being flung up with the narrow PSC flare.. I am running the XRC armor fenders and they don't provide much protection anyways in regards to stopping stuff from being flung up from the tire. They are just so damn heavy I'm trying to get something a bit lighter..
 
Basscat

Basscat

Member
AdventuresWithReid said:
I would have to assume that the aluminum flare would be the better bet if choosing between steel or aluminum then because it would just fold in if that kind of force being pushed against it as opposed to damaging the body of the jeep.

As far as rocks being flung up with the narrow PSC flare.. I am running the XRC armor fenders and they don't provide much protection anyways in regards to stopping stuff from being flung up from the tire. They are just so damn heavy I'm trying to get something a bit lighter..
Click to expand...

I don't think the aluminum flare will "just fold in". They react more closely to a steel bumper than a plastic bumper.


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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
AdventuresWithReid said:
I would have to assume that the aluminum flare would be the better bet if choosing between steel or aluminum then because it would just fold in if that kind of force being pushed against it as opposed to damaging the body of the jeep.

As far as rocks being flung up with the narrow PSC flare.. I am running the XRC armor fenders and they don't provide much protection anyways in regards to stopping stuff from being flung up from the tire. They are just so damn heavy I'm trying to get something a bit lighter..
Click to expand...

Basscat said:
I don't think the aluminum flare will "just fold in". They react more closely to a steel bumper than a plastic bumper.
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What Basscat said. Aluminum fenders will NOT "just fold in". They and even hard plastic fenders like the kind Xenon makes WILL be strong enough to translate a hard directly into your body and cause it to buckle. I have seen it.
 
deezus

deezus

New member
For me, fender trimming works great and costs about $30 if you use the molding from O'Reilly. IMO, I would use that money you save for axle shafts, ball joints and Knuckles. Anything but fender flares.

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Basscat

Basscat

Member
deezus said:
For me, fender trimming works great and costs about $30 if you use the molding from O'Reilly. IMO, I would use that money you save for axle shafts, ball joints and Knuckles. Anything but fender flares.

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Click to expand...

Good point. Would have to agree one can save quite a bit of money by simply trimming the stock flares. I've seen many that look really good.


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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Draconianwinter said:
I get asked all the time where I bought my fenders. Everyone is shocked when I tell them I just cut the factory ones.
Here id's a good side picture of them as well.
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LOL!! I hear ya. I get people asking all the time and they're always amazed. Yours came out great too. :thumb:
 
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