Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Axle Shaft Removal & Installation Write-Up

cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
rinkishjk said:
I'll tell u what, we had one hell of a time getting my stock shafts to pop out using a make shift slide hammer, long prybars and lots of muscle. A slide hammer would have made it so much easier. U will be happy u got one. Amazon has a good deal on them.

I would also suggest checking, and replacing your parking brake shoes when u do the shafts, as u have to remove the shafts to replace the shoes. I figured this out when I decided to "quickly" replace the shoes one day, which turned out not quick at all...
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well damn. i was kinda hoping to not have to buy one if i didnt have to. maybe i can borrow one from a parts store or from a friend then. if not then i will buy one. thanks!
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
cozdude said:
well damn. i was kinda hoping to not have to buy one if i didnt have to. maybe i can borrow one from a parts store or from a friend then. if not then i will buy one. thanks!
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I believe the auto parts stores will have it. It's a pretty common tool. Good to have on the trail though if you need to change a rear shaft. Might not hurt to have one.
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
OverlanderJK said:
I believe the auto parts stores will have it. It's a pretty common tool. Good to have on the trail though if you need to change a rear shaft. Might not hurt to have one.
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Yeah check auto zone and the like, they might rent it but it is a good tool to invest in and own.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
cozdude said:
is a slide hammer absolutly needed for this job? i have been thinking of upgrading from factory to Ten factory like you use in your write up
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follow up question to this. what if i get a new/used factory shaft? would i still need to slide hammer to remove the race bearing or could i keep it installed? since i believe i have a bent flang on the right rear i was thinking of only doing the one side. it would be a little cheaper route for me at this time.
 
rinkishjk

rinkishjk

New member
cozdude said:
follow up question to this. what if i get a new/used factory shaft? would i still need to slide hammer to remove the race bearing or could i keep it installed? since i believe i have a bent flang on the right rear i was thinking of only doing the one side. it would be a little cheaper route for me at this time.
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No matter what, u would need the slide hammer to remove the shaft from the housing. U can take the rotor, flip it inside out, and put it on the shaft with a few lug nuts and use that as a slide hammer but it doesn't have Alot of weight behind it like the slide hammer will..
 
seanb123

seanb123

New member
cozdude said:
follow up question to this. what if i get a new/used factory shaft? would i still need to slide hammer to remove the race bearing or could i keep it installed? since i believe i have a bent flang on the right rear i was thinking of only doing the one side. it would be a little cheaper route for me at this time.
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The slide hammer is strictly for pulling the axle from the housing. The race can be left in the housing for the new shaft and bearing and what not. We tried a slide hammer for a while with no luck so we ended up using an air hammer. So that's another route to take lol
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
Total newb question - say you are replacing a shaft on the trail because it broke within the axle housing. How do you get the broken part out?

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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
MR.Ty said:
Total newb question - say you are replacing a shaft on the trail because it broke within the axle housing. How do you get the broken part out?

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It isn't always easy but, depending on where it breaks, you can kind of reach in work it out. Where it become really tough is if the splines got twisted or your housing is bent as both situations will make it really hard to remove. Of course, if the break is at the splines, you'll have to pull the carrier out.
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
wayoflife said:
It isn't always easy but, depending on where it breaks, you can kind of reach in work it out. Where it become really tough is if the splines got twisted or your housing is bent as both situations will make it really hard to remove. Of course, if the break is at the splines, you'll have to pull the carrier out.
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Ah ok. Thank you for the reply.

Another newb question - is the "carrier" what holds your ring and pinion in the differential? Dont you need a special tool to remove and replace that?

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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
MR.Ty said:
Ah ok. Thank you for the reply.

Another newb question - is the "carrier" what holds your ring and pinion in the differential? Dont you need a special tool to remove and replace that?

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The carrier is what your ring gear is bolted on to. If you have a locker, the ring gear will be bolted onto it. You do not need a case spreader to remove one. Once the bearing caps are removed, you can use a pry bar to work it out. Shops will use a case spreader when doing gears as it helps make their job easier and more surgical.
 
MR.Ty

MR.Ty

Token East Coast Guy
wayoflife said:
The carrier is what your ring gear is bolted on to. If you have a locker, the ring gear will be bolted onto it. You do not need a case spreader to remove one. Once the bearing caps are removed, you can use a pry bar to work it out. Shops will use a case spreader when doing gears as it helps make their job easier and more surgical.
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Got it. Again thank you for the info. :thumbup:

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Y

Yednor

New member
Quick question, may or may not be off topic. If so I apologize. I just recently removed both my front axles, should i have had gear oil leak out or no? If not, I assume gear oil is low?
Ty in advance
 
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OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Yednor said:
Quick question, may or may not be off topic. If so I apologize. I just recently removed both my front axles, should i have had gear oil leak out or no? If not, I assume gear oil is low?
Ty in advance
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No. There is no gear oil in the tubes in the front axle. Only the rear.
 
M_Savage

M_Savage

Caught the Bug
Bent Flange

i currently believe i have a bent rear axle flange (ill hopefully find out this weekend). the Squeaking has gotten really bad. but i am wondering how long i can safely hold off on this replacment? I am now at a consistent squeak at any speed while driving straight.
 
M_Savage

M_Savage

Caught the Bug
hoping i don't have to start a new thread to have a little question answered.
this past weekend i pulled the axles from my jeep 1 at a time. so i tilted the rear axle so that i could eliminate the amount of oil i lost. i didn't loose much, but i would like to top off. i changed the Diff fluid about 2,000-3,000 miles ago with synthetic, however i don't remember the actual specs on it.
my question is, should i just top off with any synthetic; and is it ok to mix fluids as long as they are the same weight?
or would it be a better idea to drain it and change completely?
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
M_Savage said:
hoping i don't have to start a new thread to have a little question answered.
this past weekend i pulled the axles from my jeep 1 at a time. so i tilted the rear axle so that i could eliminate the amount of oil i lost. i didn't loose much, but i would like to top off. i changed the Diff fluid about 2,000-3,000 miles ago with synthetic, however i don't remember the actual specs on it.
my question is, should i just top off with any synthetic; and is it ok to mix fluids as long as they are the same weight?
or would it be a better idea to drain it and change completely?
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You'll be fine just adding more fluid to your axle.
 
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