Dana 30 with 35's...how long have you been running this set up?

As Eddie and others have said, there is nothing wrong with the Dana 30. You can run it with 35" tires all day long as long as you understand what you've got. I wouldn't recommend a 37, but some roll with them and have had good luck.

A Dana 30 is a great axle, we just ask A LOT of it. I would agree that spending a pile of money on a Dana 30 is a waste, but a paycheck spent on a Dana 30 isn't a bad investment as long as it is done in the right places.

Here are our recommendations on for running a Dana 30 based on our experiences (if others have different opinions that's fine):

As mentioned a few times here, don't go lower than a 4.88 gear because the teeth on the pinion get weak and small with less surface contact. A 4.56 gear is probably a better choice in regards to strength if you're going to tackle bigger stuff. If you have a manual and plan on doing Rubicon and bigger trails those low gears become more important, food for thought...

Open diffs or TrueTracs are the way to go. A standard clutch style limited slip in the front will trip up the traction control because they generate drag between the wheels. A TrueTrac is one of the few solid options for a Dana 30 JK. If you're planning on upgrading to a new axle in the future than I might hold off on the TrueTrac, get an ARB for the rear and run it. But, if you're planning on sticking with 35's and don't plan on pretending your JK is a rock bouncer it's money well spent. The best option if money is not a factor is of course a selectable locker, but then we are getting into money spent on an axle that probably isn't really worth it. With a TrueTrac and and the proper driving technique you'll get everywhere you can get on 35s (which really is pretty much everywhere!).

Don't upgrade the axle shafts or U Joints. Use the stock axles as a fuse. A set of Nitros or RCVs will move the fuse to your ring and pinion. Go to a junk yard and pick up a set of crusty trail spares and just pack them with you. Chances are good that you've break an axle shaft eventually, and that's ok it's all part of the adventure. It's generally a pretty painless trail repair as far as these things go. If you don't break them, your buddies will. Then you can give them out on the trail in exchange for beers and those delightful burritos you buddy's wife made, those sandwiches you packed kinda suck.... Win/win. What did that spare cost you? $25? WORTH IT.

C Gussets are absolutely a worthwhile investment, do it if you plan on keeping your Dana 30.

Opinions of sleeves and trusses are mixed, but one way or another they are not worth it for a Dana 30.

The last, and most important thing about a Dana 30 is the attitude of the driver/owner. First of all: stop worrying about it! Enjoy the Jeep you have! Your Dana 30 isn't "the best," but with a little money spent in the right places it'll keep right up with the big money rigs, so who cares! If that's what your JK has and you don't have or plan on allocating the budget for a new axle, RUN IT!!! I wheeled a mashed up XJ with a Dana 30 with 35" tires for YEARS. I drove it like I stole it, or at least it looked like it. I tried not let it bounce, I didn't floor it in reverse. I killed the 300K mile 4.0 and dropped a big, fat, silly stroker in it. I broke the long side axle twice, and every time I knew that I was being an idiot. I conquered everything in Moab, the Rubicon, Johnson Valley.... all for the low low price of FREE with the Cherokee. I ran it with 4.56 gears and you guessed it: A TrueTrac. It died about 6 years into its life, driving down a fire road when the left front tire caught a rut and literally twisted the axle tube out of housing in a freak accident. We replaced it with a D44, but only because it finally died. I then sold it to another XJ owner for $300. Not a bad deal.

Embrace your Dana 30!

Awesome post!
 
As Eddie and others have said, there is nothing wrong with the Dana 30. You can run it with 35" tires all day long as long as you understand what you've got. I wouldn't recommend a 37, but some roll with them and have had good luck.

A Dana 30 is a great axle, we just ask A LOT of it. I would agree that spending a pile of money on a Dana 30 is a waste, but a paycheck spent on a Dana 30 isn't a bad investment as long as it is done in the right places.

Here are our recommendations on for running a Dana 30 based on our experiences (if others have different opinions that's fine):

As mentioned a few times here, don't go lower than a 4.88 gear because the teeth on the pinion get weak and small with less surface contact. A 4.56 gear is probably a better choice in regards to strength if you're going to tackle bigger stuff. If you have a manual and plan on doing Rubicon and bigger trails those low gears become more important, food for thought...

Open diffs or TrueTracs are the way to go. A standard clutch style limited slip in the front will trip up the traction control because they generate drag between the wheels. A TrueTrac is one of the few solid options for a Dana 30 JK. If you're planning on upgrading to a new axle in the future than I might hold off on the TrueTrac, get an ARB for the rear and run it. But, if you're planning on sticking with 35's and don't plan on pretending your JK is a rock bouncer it's money well spent. The best option if money is not a factor is of course a selectable locker, but then we are getting into money spent on an axle that probably isn't really worth it. With a TrueTrac and and the proper driving technique you'll get everywhere you can get on 35s (which really is pretty much everywhere!).

Don't upgrade the axle shafts or U Joints. Use the stock axles as a fuse. A set of Nitros or RCVs will move the fuse to your ring and pinion. Go to a junk yard and pick up a set of crusty trail spares and just pack them with you. Chances are good that you've break an axle shaft eventually, and that's ok it's all part of the adventure. It's generally a pretty painless trail repair as far as these things go. If you don't break them, your buddies will. Then you can give them out on the trail in exchange for beers and those delightful burritos you buddy's wife made, those sandwiches you packed kinda suck.... Win/win. What did that spare cost you? $25? WORTH IT.

C Gussets are absolutely a worthwhile investment, do it if you plan on keeping your Dana 30.

Opinions of sleeves and trusses are mixed, but one way or another they are not worth it for a Dana 30.

The last, and most important thing about a Dana 30 is the attitude of the driver/owner. First of all: stop worrying about it! Enjoy the Jeep you have! Your Dana 30 isn't "the best," but with a little money spent in the right places it'll keep right up with the big money rigs, so who cares! If that's what your JK has and you don't have or plan on allocating the budget for a new axle, RUN IT!!! I wheeled a mashed up XJ with a Dana 30 with 35" tires for YEARS. I drove it like I stole it, or at least it looked like it. I tried not let it bounce, I didn't floor it in reverse. I killed the 300K mile 4.0 and dropped a big, fat, silly stroker in it. I broke the long side axle twice, and every time I knew that I was being an idiot. I conquered everything in Moab, the Rubicon, Johnson Valley.... all for the low low price of FREE with the Cherokee. I ran it with 4.56 gears and you guessed it: A TrueTrac. It died about 6 years into its life, driving down a fire road when the left front tire caught a rut and literally twisted the axle tube out of housing in a freak accident. We replaced it with a D44, but only because it finally died. I then sold it to another XJ owner for $300. Not a bad deal.

Embrace your Dana 30!

Probably the best way to sum up a Dana 30.


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i hav 35k miles on my 315/12.5/17 on my D30. i also hav 3:21 auto. learning everytime im out wheeling, so far so good. all advice here is greatly appreciated !!


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Agree with the others: Drive with some sanity, add gussets and sleeves. Keep in mind the JK D30 is a high pinion axle. It drives on the "coast" side of the ring gear. Before the JK a high pinon D30 axle, from a donor XJ, was a highly sought upgrade. I did it on my old YJ. Yes, I only ran 33's. However, they were Super Swampers with Lock-Rights front and rear & 4.56 gear. I only got away with this, on the street, because I had a manual tranny and could push in the clutch around corners
 
As Eddie and others have said, there is nothing wrong with the Dana 30. You can run it with 35" tires all day long as long as you understand what you've got. I wouldn't recommend a 37, but some roll with them and have had good luck.

A Dana 30 is a great axle, we just ask A LOT of it. I would agree that spending a pile of money on a Dana 30 is a waste, but a paycheck spent on a Dana 30 isn't a bad investment as long as it is done in the right places.

Here are our recommendations on for running a Dana 30 based on our experiences (if others have different opinions that's fine):

As mentioned a few times here, don't go lower than a 4.88 gear because the teeth on the pinion get weak and small with less surface contact. A 4.56 gear is probably a better choice in regards to strength if you're going to tackle bigger stuff. If you have a manual and plan on doing Rubicon and bigger trails those low gears become more important, food for thought...

Open diffs or TrueTracs are the way to go. A standard clutch style limited slip in the front will trip up the traction control because they generate drag between the wheels. A TrueTrac is one of the few solid options for a Dana 30 JK. If you're planning on upgrading to a new axle in the future than I might hold off on the TrueTrac, get an ARB for the rear and run it. But, if you're planning on sticking with 35's and don't plan on pretending your JK is a rock bouncer it's money well spent. The best option if money is not a factor is of course a selectable locker, but then we are getting into money spent on an axle that probably isn't really worth it. With a TrueTrac and and the proper driving technique you'll get everywhere you can get on 35s (which really is pretty much everywhere!).

Don't upgrade the axle shafts or U Joints. Use the stock axles as a fuse. A set of Nitros or RCVs will move the fuse to your ring and pinion. Go to a junk yard and pick up a set of crusty trail spares and just pack them with you. Chances are good that you'll break an axle shaft eventually, and that's ok it's all part of the adventure. It's generally a pretty painless trail repair as far as these things go. If you don't break them, your buddies will. Then you can give them out on the trail in exchange for beers and those delightful burritos you buddy's wife made, those sandwiches you packed kinda suck.... Win/win. What did that spare cost you? $25? WORTH IT.

C Gussets are absolutely a worthwhile investment, do it if you plan on keeping your Dana 30.

Opinions of sleeves and trusses are mixed, but one way or another they are not worth it for a Dana 30.

The last, and most important thing about a Dana 30 is the attitude of the driver/owner. First of all: stop worrying about it! Enjoy the Jeep you have! Your Dana 30 isn't "the best," but with a little money spent in the right places it'll keep right up with the big money rigs, so who cares! If that's what your JK has and you don't have or plan on allocating the budget for a new axle, RUN IT!!! I wheeled a mashed up XJ with a Dana 30 with 35" tires for YEARS. I drove it like I stole it, or at least it looked like it. I tried not let it bounce, I didn't floor it in reverse. I killed the 300K mile 4.0 and dropped a big, fat, silly stroker in it. I broke the long side axle twice, and every time I knew that I was being an idiot. I conquered everything in Moab, the Rubicon, Johnson Valley.... all for the low low price of FREE with the Cherokee. I ran it with 4.56 gears and you guessed it: A TrueTrac. It died about 6 years into its life, driving down a fire road when the left front tire caught a rut and literally twisted the axle tube out of housing in a freak accident. We replaced it with a D44, but only because it finally died. I then sold it to another XJ owner for $300. Not a bad deal.

Embrace your Dana 30!
Great post!

Sent from my SM-G930V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
If you threw some 4.56 gears in there it would it would feel like you were touched by the baby Jesus both on and off pavement.

[emoji23]

Thanks for that, replacing my 3.21's with 4.56 sometime next week hopefully. Can't wait to get this feeling [emoji1]

Thanks for the post about D30 upgrades too. May think about a true trac some day down the line. Just dropped all the $ on a locker for the rear [emoji16]


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[emoji23]

Thanks for that, replacing my 3.21's with 4.56 sometime next week hopefully. Can't wait to get this feeling [emoji1]

Thanks for the post about D30 upgrades too. May think about a true trac some day down the line. Just dropped all the $ on a locker for the rear [emoji16]


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For what it's worth, now is the time to pony up the money for the Truetrac if you're going there. It requires replacing the case, like a Detroit. If you wait you're essentially paying for a front ring and pinion install twice, because you have to pull apart the whole shebang to throw the Truetrac in, and as always you risk the collateral damage of good bearings and seals.

Either way, congrats on the upgrade! It'll be a night and day difference!
 
As Eddie and others have said, there is nothing wrong with the Dana 30. You can run it with 35" tires all day long as long as you understand what you've got. I wouldn't recommend a 37, but some roll with them and have had good luck.

A Dana 30 is a great axle, we just ask A LOT of it. I would agree that spending a pile of money on a Dana 30 is a waste, but a paycheck spent on a Dana 30 isn't a bad investment as long as it is done in the right places.

Here are our recommendations on for running a Dana 30 based on our experiences (if others have different opinions that's fine):

As mentioned a few times here, don't go lower than a 4.88 gear because the teeth on the pinion get weak and small with less surface contact. A 4.56 gear is probably a better choice in regards to strength if you're going to tackle bigger stuff. If you have a manual and plan on doing Rubicon and bigger trails those low gears become more important, food for thought...

Open diffs or TrueTracs are the way to go. A standard clutch style limited slip in the front will trip up the traction control because they generate drag between the wheels. A TrueTrac is one of the few solid options for a Dana 30 JK. If you're planning on upgrading to a new axle in the future than I might hold off on the TrueTrac, get an ARB for the rear and run it. But, if you're planning on sticking with 35's and don't plan on pretending your JK is a rock bouncer it's money well spent. The best option if money is not a factor is of course a selectable locker, but then we are getting into money spent on an axle that probably isn't really worth it. With a TrueTrac and and the proper driving technique you'll get everywhere you can get on 35s (which really is pretty much everywhere!).

Don't upgrade the axle shafts or U Joints. Use the stock axles as a fuse. A set of Nitros or RCVs will move the fuse to your ring and pinion. Go to a junk yard and pick up a set of crusty trail spares and just pack them with you. Chances are good that you'll break an axle shaft eventually, and that's ok it's all part of the adventure. It's generally a pretty painless trail repair as far as these things go. If you don't break them, your buddies will. Then you can give them out on the trail in exchange for beers and those delightful burritos you buddy's wife made, those sandwiches you packed kinda suck.... Win/win. What did that spare cost you? $25? WORTH IT.

C Gussets are absolutely a worthwhile investment, do it if you plan on keeping your Dana 30.

Opinions of sleeves and trusses are mixed, but one way or another they are not worth it for a Dana 30.

The last, and most important thing about a Dana 30 is the attitude of the driver/owner. First of all: stop worrying about it! Enjoy the Jeep you have! Your Dana 30 isn't "the best," but with a little money spent in the right places it'll keep right up with the big money rigs, so who cares! If that's what your JK has and you don't have or plan on allocating the budget for a new axle, RUN IT!!! I wheeled a mashed up XJ with a Dana 30 with 35" tires for YEARS. I drove it like I stole it, or at least it looked like it. I tried not let it bounce, I didn't floor it in reverse. I killed the 300K mile 4.0 and dropped a big, fat, silly stroker in it. I broke the long side axle twice, and every time I knew that I was being an idiot. I conquered everything in Moab, the Rubicon, Johnson Valley.... all for the low low price of FREE with the Cherokee. I ran it with 4.56 gears and you guessed it: A TrueTrac. It died about 6 years into its life, driving down a fire road when the left front tire caught a rut and literally twisted the axle tube out of housing in a freak accident. We replaced it with a D44, but only because it finally died. I then sold it to another XJ owner for $300. Not a bad deal.

Embrace your Dana 30!

This is one of the truest post about the 30 I've ever read. Love it ha


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I want 37s on my Dana 30

So this:
Moving to 37s
Gearing to 4.88
Add C gussets
Keep front open
Rear Locker
GO EASY
Start saving for PR44.
 
Wow! This has been incredibly informative. I'm definitely taking all this into consideration for the next steps. Running 35s and have 4.56 open gears going in next week

Looks like G2 makes a truss kit with c gussets for $175. Think it's worth it to get the entire kit or stick with just the c gussets?

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Wow! This has been incredibly informative. I'm definitely taking all this into consideration for the next steps. Running 35s and have 4.56 open gears going in next week

Looks like G2 makes a truss kit with c gussets for $175. Think it's worth it to get the entire kit or stick with just the c gussets?

Sent from my SM-G925V using WAYALIFE mobile app

The whole point of this thread is to say that you "can" run 35's on a Dana 30 - NOT that you should throw money at it like it'd be worth it. In other words, play with what you've got until you need or can afford to upgrade it to a real axle. Until then, adding gussets isn't a bad thing but anything beyond that would be a waste of money.
 
The whole point of this thread is to say that you "can" run 35's on a Dana 30 - NOT that you should throw money at it like it'd be worth it. In other words, play with what you've got until you need or can afford to upgrade it to a real axle. Until then, adding gussets isn't a bad thing but anything beyond that would be a waste of money.
Great info. Thanks!

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I have 30k miles my jku is my daily driver and toy I run 35 and Offroad almost every weekend no problems for me going to run stock axles tell they break lolme IMG_0312.JPG


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app Semper Fi
 
The whole point of this thread is to say that you "can" run 35's on a Dana 30 - NOT that you should throw money at it like it'd be worth it. In other words, play with what you've got until you need or can afford to upgrade it to a real axle. Until then, adding gussets isn't a bad thing but anything beyond that would be a waste of money.
This is good info for the newbie such as myself. I plan on keeping my rig as is until I need to upgrade and continue to learn !!

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