I was wondering how the Rusty's arms do compared to most others (TF, EVO, etc). The Rusty's kits get rid of the separate upper arms and has them attached to the lower arms. I think Clayton is like this too. Which style (given you use the same springs, shocks, trackbar, etc) would net more articulation?
Long arm questoin
- Thread starter T&ERun
- Start date
The arms in question are a radius arm design and when it comes to flex, they will actually do a great job of RESTRICTING it. Radius arms are great on vehicles like desert race trucks where you have big vertical travel of the axle. however, by it's design, radius arms are in a state of bind the moment you try to force them to articulate. If you were to disconnect the radius arms at the frame, they would stand straight out like a diving board. see image below:
In fact, if you were to grab each end of the radius arms and try to push them in opposite directions, you would find it very difficult to do as your axle holds them firmly in place. Think of your sway bar - not the links but the actual sway bar itself - it is basically a torsion bar that wraps around with 2 arms that the links are attached to. That's essentially what your front axle and radius arms are like only, your axle is no torsion bar and it will not twist. Believe it or not, there are companies that have made axles that allow for this kind of rotation on the axle but without it, you have bind. Now, having said all that, you can force radius arms to flex but in order to do so, an enormous amount of stress is placed into your bushings as they get squashed and stretch and in time, these bushings will fail.
In fact, if you were to grab each end of the radius arms and try to push them in opposite directions, you would find it very difficult to do as your axle holds them firmly in place. Think of your sway bar - not the links but the actual sway bar itself - it is basically a torsion bar that wraps around with 2 arms that the links are attached to. That's essentially what your front axle and radius arms are like only, your axle is no torsion bar and it will not twist. Believe it or not, there are companies that have made axles that allow for this kind of rotation on the axle but without it, you have bind. Now, having said all that, you can force radius arms to flex but in order to do so, an enormous amount of stress is placed into your bushings as they get squashed and stretch and in time, these bushings will fail.
Have you pulled your arms and checked the bushings? It's hard to tell when they are still installed on your Jeep but if I could guess, they could be blown.
munstie
New member
This is very true about the bushings as, I am running this setup if you like to flex you will eat bushings up. That being said I can't wait to switch out my control arms when I do switch them out I will stay with the long arm just in a four link setup. :thumbup:
Sent from the"Zone of Influence"
JK's JK
Banned
I dont have the same lift but I have a RE long arm. I just changed out all the bushings myself which seemed to be long over due. When you take out the metal cylinder the rubber bushing will be oval or the rubber will be eatten away. Could be time to replace them. Lucky for me the bushing are warrantied through 4wheelparts. Not sure if Clayton does the same for there lifts.
Did you remove your arms to check them? If not, it can be difficult to see if they are really blown.
Edit: posted to wrong thread... Woops