jeeeep
Hooked
fog light connectors
Help Identifying My Lift (Used Jeep Rubicon)
- Thread starter Hirschmann
- Start date
jeeeep
Hooked
from that slight clean rub mark in front of the tire, it looks like the axle is too forward.
have you pulled a shock to manually compress it, how fast does it rebound?
Hirschmann
New member
pulled a shock. Its firm and rebounds. no leaking. When standing on the rear bumper and hopping up and down. The jeep quickly settles back down. I can video this tomorrow. feeling pretty confident shocks are not shot. Really leaning towards that plastic rubbing. Is 4.5inch backspacing a normal setup for a lifted jeep?
I agree, I think the rear axel is about 1-1.5 inches to far forward. err- let me rephrase, maybe the lift isn't putting the axel back to stock location. PLUS those fenders are protruding back into wheel well.
I would expect the new upper and lower Control arms to be the correct length. The uppers are non-adjustable but were made for that size lift. I could source some adjustable ones but I have to imagine there is the need for a huge number of changes if I move that axel to much to the rear. But maybe I can set it back .5 to 1 inch? and get a slightly longer bumps top and be good? I can get more images tomorrow when I video the bounce.
I agree, I think the rear axel is about 1-1.5 inches to far forward. err- let me rephrase, maybe the lift isn't putting the axel back to stock location. PLUS those fenders are protruding back into wheel well.
I would expect the new upper and lower Control arms to be the correct length. The uppers are non-adjustable but were made for that size lift. I could source some adjustable ones but I have to imagine there is the need for a huge number of changes if I move that axel to much to the rear. But maybe I can set it back .5 to 1 inch? and get a slightly longer bumps top and be good? I can get more images tomorrow when I video the bounce.
bmkrinne
Active Member
Adding lift causes your wheels to move forward in the wheel well due to the arc of the CAs. You could move your rear axle back slightly but would need to install the adjustable upper and lower CAs, but remember the axle assembly moves rearward when the suspension is compressed due to the arc of the CAs. If you center the wheels, you will likely hit the back of the wheel wells at full compression if your bump stops are not sized right. Even then you may still rub. I had to trim my front pinch seams and rock rails so that my tires don’t rub at full stuff.
I’m running Cooper STT pro 37x12.50 on KMC Tank beadlocks with 4.4” backspacing and no rubs. I’ve got 4” Evo plush ride springs and core4x4 CAs. At full lock and full articulation, the front tires would slightly rub the lower front CAs so it added a washer to the steering stop bolts and no more issue. Less backspace would also solve but remember the more backspace the more stress is on your ball joints.
I’m running Cooper STT pro 37x12.50 on KMC Tank beadlocks with 4.4” backspacing and no rubs. I’ve got 4” Evo plush ride springs and core4x4 CAs. At full lock and full articulation, the front tires would slightly rub the lower front CAs so it added a washer to the steering stop bolts and no more issue. Less backspace would also solve but remember the more backspace the more stress is on your ball joints.
jeeeep
Hooked
You might trim some of that plastic from the rear where it's rubbing before moving the axle back and affecting the drive shaft, angle etc since you still have the stock driveshaft.
I'm running Cooper STT pro 37x13.5 on KMC Machete and had to trim some of the metal off where the tire was rubbing.
This image shows the initial cut I made with the BFG KO2 37x12.5, the green line is where I made the final cut to allow the wider Cooper STT; it exposed the foam under the trim but I coated it with some Rustoleum truck bed coating
I'm running Cooper STT pro 37x13.5 on KMC Machete and had to trim some of the metal off where the tire was rubbing.
This image shows the initial cut I made with the BFG KO2 37x12.5, the green line is where I made the final cut to allow the wider Cooper STT; it exposed the foam under the trim but I coated it with some Rustoleum truck bed coating
Hirschmann
New member
That is the plan, just want to be strategic and not ruin these flat fenders. It appears alot of the stability of front of that fender from from that corner. I dont want the plastic flapping around too much. curved line is rough idea of planned cut. Well after reviewing your, I probably will not go as high.
maybe lower like this. I just dont want it to look crappy and flap to much at hw speeds.
maybe lower like this. I just dont want it to look crappy and flap to much at hw speeds.
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
Is the tire tread going to be damaged by the pinch seam, or is it just an annoying noise? Maybe some off-roading in an area with abrasive sand or mud would result in automatic trimming? 
bobfriesenhahn
Hooked
Or use a BFH on it!
