Still pulling to the right...

[iClimbthings]

Hey friends, been a while since I've visited the forums. My 2013 JKUR has pulled to the right for a loooong time and I've decided it's time to tackle it once and for all. Here's some quick background and history of this quest:

1. First, yes, I did get my Jeep aligned at two different shops. Both said I was in-spec and one attributed to the pull to a full tank of gas on one side (yeah... didn't go back there).
2. So, I thought maybe it was my wheelset. I was running 13.5" wide 37s on some ATX slabs... some wide bois for sure. My thought was that I was too wide for the grooves in the road, so I was constantly riding one side of one groove - if that makes sense - giving the sensation of being pulled in one direction. Not to mention, they were all pretty cupped and unevenly worn.
3. After going back to the stock Rubicon wheels and a thinner, smaller tire (35x11.5x17), I found the Jeep still pulling to the right... fun.
4. I had previously installed some drop-brackets for my front control arms (I know, I know... clearance shmearance), so I thought maybe they were machined slightly differently? I was also still running stock control arms, which their joints had to be pretty worn by now.
5. Installed adjustable front upper and lower control arms thinking, "sweet, infinite adjustability, surely my problem will be solved"
6. Got another alignment, everything in spec except for the caster, which the tech said was fine for a lifted vehicle:
   
   
   Side note: I read wayoflife's write-up on the do-it-yourself alignment and saw they recommend ~4.2* of caster. Ok, weird mine is so far off but... something to look at later, I'm focused on the pulling issue...
7. I drive home from the alignment shop and yep, STILL pulls to the right... not even a little bit better.

So, I'm pretty stumped at this point what to look at next. My next guess would be some of the steering component joints, but figured I'd turn to the internet for some help as well. TIA for any help!

 

[wayoflife]

4.2° is your Jeep comes with from the factory. More than that should make your steering feel tighter and if anything, drive straighter. The down side to more caster is that you will feel driveline vibrations when running a higher gear ratio and a u-joint style double cardan driveshaft.

That said, a crown in the road will cause your Jeep to drift to the right. If what you're feeling is definitely a pull, it could just be your tires. Radial pull on bigger off road tires is very common and on something like Nitto Trail Grapplers, a pull to the left is totally normal. On something like Toyo MT's, a slight pull the right is totally normal.

 

[WJCO]

Caster could be lower but that won't be causing your pull since it's close to equal on both sides. Also a caster pull pulls to the more negative side whereas yours is slightly more negative on the Left.

I would check ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods, drag link, and track bar for play.

My gut feeling would be a tire issue but being you've run two different sets, that's probably not it. You could always swap the front tires side to side and see if pull goes to the left.

 

[Disciple Off Road]

Caster can play a huge part in the drivability in a vehicle and would start there. Looks like you need to extend your uppers to get closer to at least the 5° range.

additionally, your suspension could be in a state of bind. I would disconnect your upper passenger arm from the axle and then adjust your caster with the driver side upper. Essentially you are like a 3-link setup. When you put the passenger side on, adjust it to whatever length so that the bolt can go in easily. Yes it may be slightly different length than the driver side both that’s ok.

You will know if it’s in a bind the second you remove the control arm bolt.

This is where I would start.

 

[iClimbthings]

That said, a crown in the road will cause your Jeep to drift to the right. If what you're feeling is definitely a pull, it could just be your tires. Radial pull on bigger off road tires is very common and on something like Nitto Trail Grapplers, a pull to the left is totally normal. On something like Toyo MT's, a slight pull the right is totally normal.

This is what I'm afraid the answer is going to end up being... that this is just normal drift. It really is in that in-between, just-enough-to-be-annoying type of pull. I ran Cooper STT Pros before and now I'm running a brand new set of Nitto Ridge Grapplers, and the Jeep pulled right with both sets. If nothing else works at the end of the day, I'll probably just chalk it up to radial pull.

 

[iClimbthings]

I would check ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods, drag link, and track bar for play.

My gut feeling would be a tire issue but being you've run two different sets, that's probably not it. You could always swap the front tires side to side and see if pull goes to the left.

Thanks for the info! I suspect it could be tie rod, drag link or track bar since that's really the only things I havn't looked at (new wheel bearings on both sides already).

At this point, I think I've ruled out the tires being the issue since the new set is brand new. Could be possible I got a wonky set though?

 

[iClimbthings]

Caster can play a huge part in the drivability in a vehicle and would start there. Looks like you need to extend your uppers to get closer to at least the 5° range.

additionally, your suspension could be in a state of bind. I would disconnect your upper passenger arm from the axle and then adjust your caster with the driver side upper. Essentially you are like a 3-link setup. When you put the passenger side on, adjust it to whatever length so that the bolt can go in easily. Yes it may be slightly different length than the driver side both that’s ok.

You will know if it’s in a bind the second you remove the control arm bolt.

This is where I would start.

Interesting, I'll give this a go as well. Is there any concerns with caster being different on one end of the axle than the other doing this? Essentially twisting the axle slightly?

 

[Disciple Off Road]

Interesting, I'll give this a go as well. Is there any concerns with caster being different on one end of the axle than the other doing this? Essentially twisting the axle slightly?

It’s just something to consider and check if you are going to be adjusting caster already. And no, it’s the same as running a 3 link and doing this is to prevent binding.

It’s not going to be crazy different in length, we are talking one or maybe two turns on the joint. Assuming your lowers are the same length witch is worth checking as well.

 

[JimLee]

Interesting, I'll give this a go as well. Is there any concerns with caster being different on one end of the axle than the other doing this? Essentially twisting the axle slightly?

My caster is intentionally set to 6.0 drivers and 6.3 passenger, helps with road crown and drives great. A small cross caster won't hurt anything.

 

[wayoflife]

Solid axles do come with a bit of cross caster from the factory but you cannot add more or less into it. The most you can do is put your control arms into a state of bind.

 

[Mike Pierson]

Any chance its just the steering stabilizer? If you have a non-stock one, like a fox, it will cause the jeep to go right or left. I’m waiting on a replacement stock stabilizer and am running a fox in the meantime… pulls to the right.

 

[TrailHunter]

Any chance its just the steering stabilizer? If you have a non-stock one, like a fox, it will cause the jeep to go right or left. I’m waiting on a replacement stock stabilizer and am running a fox in the meantime… pulls to the right.

I have a fox on my shelf. Was on my Jeep for a week. Went back to a stock style (Rancho). Stabilizers should not push in one direction.

 

[Mike Pierson]

I have a fox on my shelf. Was on my Jeep for a week. Went back to a stock style (Rancho). Stabilizers should not push in one direction.

Yeah if it weren’t for NBO I’d be running stock too.

 

[TrailHunter]

Yeah if it weren’t for NBO I’d be running stock too.

NBO?

 

[Mike Pierson]

NBO?

National backorder

 

[jeeeep]

Hey friends, been a while since I've visited the forums. My 2013 JKUR has pulled to the right for a loooong time and I've decided it's time to tackle it once and for all. Here's some quick background and history of this quest:

1. First, yes, I did get my Jeep aligned at two different shops. Both said I was in-spec and one attributed to the pull to a full tank of gas on one side (yeah... didn't go back there).
2. So, I thought maybe it was my wheelset. I was running 13.5" wide 37s on some ATX slabs... some wide bois for sure. My thought was that I was too wide for the grooves in the road, so I was constantly riding one side of one groove - if that makes sense - giving the sensation of being pulled in one direction. Not to mention, they were all pretty cupped and unevenly worn.
3. After going back to the stock Rubicon wheels and a thinner, smaller tire (35x11.5x17), I found the Jeep still pulling to the right... fun.
4. I had previously installed some drop-brackets for my front control arms (I know, I know... clearance shmearance), so I thought maybe they were machined slightly differently? I was also still running stock control arms, which their joints had to be pretty worn by now.
5. Installed adjustable front upper and lower control arms thinking, "sweet, infinite adjustability, surely my problem will be solved"
6. Got another alignment, everything in spec except for the caster, which the tech said was fine for a lifted vehicle:
   View attachment 386760
   
   Side note: I read wayoflife's write-up on the do-it-yourself alignment and saw they recommend ~4.2* of caster. Ok, weird mine is so far off but... something to look at later, I'm focused on the pulling issue...
7. I drive home from the alignment shop and yep, STILL pulls to the right... not even a little bit better.

So, I'm pretty stumped at this point what to look at next. My next guess would be some of the steering component joints, but figured I'd turn to the internet for some help as well. TIA for any help!

Do you have rear adjustable control arms? the rear toe difference seems pretty large, it's not adjustable but I don't recall that much of a difference on any of my Jeeps, 2010, 2015, 2018; possible axle shaft or wheel bent?

I'd take it back and see if they can do a better adjustment on the thrust angle (if you have adjustable control arms) or check closer for something bent. Last alignment on the 2015 JK (6 months) rear was 0 thrust, .03* toe

The axle will shift side to side depending on load but, one side shouldn't be more forward than that other

 

[bobfriesenhahn]

For me, road crown and wind direction seem like the major factors regarding "pull". Smaller highways and roads have more crown than big highways.

Sometimes I feel concerned, but then I see something else happening when going the other direction.

But it could be an actual technical problem. See above

 

[Breer]

Caster could be lower but that won't be causing your pull since it's close to equal on both sides. Also a caster pull pulls to the more negative side whereas yours is slightly more negative on the Left.

I would check ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods, drag link, and track bar for play.

My gut feeling would be a tire issue but being you've run two different sets, that's probably not it. You could always swap the front tires side to side and see if pull goes to the left.

Dealing with the same issues currently. Mine pulls left and after finally going to an alignment shop there was no improvement. While it's not perfect, replacing my track bar as WJCO mentioned made a noticeable improvement. I have just come to the conclusion that's it's probably a little bit of everything, including tires and the suggestion to swap tires to the other side is a great idea I will be trying.

 

[GP NOIR]

My JK pulls a little sometimes and depending on the day of the week, it’s either a left or right pull. In my case, I suspect it’s due to a shifting track bar (Parts on order).