35" Tires Sanity Check

GuillaumeC91

New member
Hey guys!

I know... I know... 35" tires have been discussed over and over again and answered many times. I read all the other posts and comments. I just want to run a "sanity check" to make sure I'm not over thinking this and I can make it all work.

1) I need more then 4.25" back spacing right?
2) I might throw on some spacers. The goal here is to get the tire as far away from the body, correct? Following Sharkey's advice, I'd go for SpiderTrax 1.75".
3) I'd like to do a TeraFlex 2" budget boost.
4) I want to keep stock fenders, please tell me I don't need to trim them?!
5) Pinch seem. Tell me I don't need to hack off anything?! Lol
6) Spare. Will I need new rubber isolators on stock bumper?
7) Finally, power. I'm running a '13 Sport with the 3.6L. Will I hate my power as much as with the 3.8L? Will I need new gears?

I think this sums it up. Any answer I appreciated. I'd be glad to hear your suggestions!

Thanks :D
 

Speeddmn

New member
1: Correct you will want 4.5 bs roughly for tires 12 inches wide or wider, even if the tire is shorter.
2: Spacers are not used or required if the back spacing for the wheels are correct, spacers are there to move the actual tire away from suspension components.
3: TeraFlex makes a good budget boost, also look into shock extensions or longer aftermarket shocks, like rancho 7000 series or bilstien 5100 series.
4: Budget boost and 35's will not require fender trimming but I would recommend it. I have 295/70/17 (34 inch) with a 2 inch budget boost and I was rubbing at full flex, so I trimmed.
5: I would highly recommend trimming the pinch seam, if not and the tires are true 35's they will come very close to rubbing it and cutting your new tires!
6: Yes shorter isolators would be needed, otherwise you might crack the stock carrier, also need to think of the extra weight you are carrying on the gate now, large bumps and rear departure angle are now effected and can damage the gate.
7: 35's and 4.10 gears with the new 3.6L is adequate, anything less for gears would really hinder your craw ratio and acceleration on the roads.

So what I would do is simple, new wheels and tires, budget boost, trim fenders, new front and rear bumpers so you can carry a full size spare, then regear to either a 4.88 or 5.13. Is that what you're looking for in an answer, maybe not but it would greatly increase the off road capability of an already awesome vehicle!
 

Tranquillity

New member
1) Do you want to keep stock rim?
2) Only if you keep stock rim
3)2.5" budget boost will almost clear (you will rub only if you're flexing at maximum)
4)Get a body lift 1", you will clear the rubbing and stay on a low budget kit.
5)Pass
6)Yes on a stock carrier. I don't remember which but I read on a post not long ago.
7)Do you know what is your gearing? And is it auto or manual?

hope it can help a little. :beer:
 

miguel250r

New member
I know I'm off topic but will 37s clear with a 4" lift any fender trimming or rubbing? And also how would it act with a 3.8 auto with 4.10 gears on the road

Sent from my DROID RAZR using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

GuillaumeC91

New member
3: TeraFlex makes a good budget boost, also look into shock extensions or longer aftermarket shocks, like rancho 7000 series or bilstien 5100 series.
I was also thinking of the 2.5" kit with shock extenders. Down the road I'd like to do a full spring and shock 2.5" - 3" kit but for now, since the Jeep is still fairly new (6000km) I'd like to use up the new parts before moving on lol.

4: Budget boost and 35's will not require fender trimming but I would recommend it. I have 295/70/17 (34 inch) with a 2 inch budget boost and I was rubbing at full flex, so I trimmed.
5: I would highly recommend trimming the pinch seam, if not and the tires are true 35's they will come very close to rubbing it and cutting your new tires!
I probably won't be flexing that hard for now but I'll keep this in mind. As for the seem, I'd like to do without but I guess I might have to... so I guess I should do that before I get lifetime undercoating. Yes I do live in Canada with salty ass winter roads...:mad:

7: 35's and 4.10 gears with the new 3.6L is adequate, anything less for gears would really hinder your craw ratio and acceleration on the roads.
7)Do you know what is your gearing? And is it auto or manual?
I'm driving '13 Sport with 3.6L and 5 speed auto. No clue what my gears are...

1) Do you want to keep stock rim?
2) Only if you keep stock rim
I'll be running new wheels so I'll be checking my backspacing. Thanks!

3)2.5" budget boost will almost clear (you will rub only if you're flexing at maximum)
4)Get a body lift 1", you will clear the rubbing and stay on a low budget kit.
5)Pass
If a 1" body lift saves me the trouble of cutting the pinch seem it might be a good idea, but I like to do all my own work, will I need to actually lift the body off the frame for that or can I do a corner at a time type deal?

Thanks for the tips guys!:thumbup:
 

TheStick

Member
A lot of good advice already. One thing, I am not sure if its every '13 or not, but I know mine and many others came from the factory with the pinch seam trimmed. So check yours, might be one thing to take off your list ;)
 

Tranquillity

New member
If a 1" body lift saves me the trouble of cutting the pinch seem it might be a good idea, but I like to do all my own work, will I need to actually lift the body off the frame for that or can I do a corner at a time type deal?

Thanks for the tips guys!:thumbup:[/QUOTE]

Well, I never had any problem with pinch seam. Of course my duratrac aren't real 35" so I can't say much about this.

Since you have an auto you'll need a programmer like procal to correct the shift point vs tire size. A lot of people says that it isn't that bad with the 3.6 even with 3.21 ratio as long as your speedo is calibrated.

A body lift is pretty simple to install one side at a time. Installed mine in my backyard with a floor jack and some 2x4. Took about an hour with the help of captain morgan.

Good luck !
 

GuillaumeC91

New member
My spare stay's in da trunck... When i don't forget to put it in....


From Québec
I do like the fact of always having a spare tire though, not only when wheeling. Plus I have a sport which means a 2 door.... and no trunk space lol. A 35" in the trunk is out of the question for me unless I feel like ditching the seats haha.
 

GuillaumeC91

New member
A lot of good advice already. One thing, I am not sure if its every '13 or not, but I know mine and many others came from the factory with the pinch seam trimmed. So check yours, might be one thing to take off your list ;)
Wwwhhhaaaatttt!!!??? Omg I'm going to check right now! That's sweet! :thumbup::D

Well, I never had any problem with pinch seam. Of course my duratrac aren't real 35" so I can't say much about this.

Since you have an auto you'll need a programmer like procal to correct the shift point vs tire size. A lot of people says that it isn't that bad with the 3.6 even with 3.21 ratio as long as your speedo is calibrated.

A body lift is pretty simple to install one side at a time. Installed mine in my backyard with a floor jack and some 2x4. Took about an hour with the help of captain morgan.

Good luck !
Nice! I like cap'n Morgan's help myself! Haha I know I'll need a programmer but if power feels okay I'd like to leave the gears alone. If I don't have issues with the pinch seam, I might not need the body lift?! That would be awesome!
 

jkjurny

Member
I was also thinking of the 2.5" kit with shock extenders. Down the road I'd like to do a full spring and shock 2.5" - 3" kit but for now, since the Jeep is still fairly new (6000km) I'd like to use up the new parts before moving on lol.


I probably won't be flexing that hard for now but I'll keep this in mind. As for the seem, I'd like to do without but I guess I might have to... so I guess I should do that before I get lifetime undercoating. Yes I do live in Canada with salty ass winter roads...:mad:



I'm driving '13 Sport with 3.6L and 5 speed auto. No clue what my gears are...


I'll be running new wheels so I'll be checking my backspacing. Thanks!

If a 1" body lift saves me the trouble of cutting the pinch seem it might be a good idea, but I like to do all my own work, will I need to actually lift the body off the frame for that or can I do a corner at a time type deal?

Thanks for the tips guys!:thumbup:

Seems to me that cutting the pinch seam will be a faster and cheaper solution than a body lift. I haven't done mine, but I have a long arm kit so my 35's don't come close to the pinch seam.

People who have done it have cut it said it took them 30 minutes to do. Seems that a body lift would take longer than 30 minutes.
 

Tranquillity

New member
Wwwhhhaaaatttt!!!??? Omg I'm going to check right now! That's sweet! :thumbup::D


Nice! I like cap'n Morgan's help myself! Haha I know I'll need a programmer but if power feels okay I'd like to leave the gears alone. If I don't have issues with the pinch seam, I might not need the body lift?! That would be awesome!

The body lift is to prevent rub on your front fenders. But still only if you flex at maximum.
 
I do like the fact of always having a spare tire though, not only when wheeling. Plus I have a sport which means a 2 door.... and no trunk space lol. A 35" in the trunk is out of the question for me unless I feel like ditching the seats haha.

STOP :eek: saying you have a trunk :what: on your jeep. Thank you, carry on. :D

Sent from my SCH-I605 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Paisano

New member
A lot of good advice already. One thing, I am not sure if its every '13 or not, but I know mine and many others came from the factory with the pinch seam trimmed. So check yours, might be one thing to take off your list ;)

It's not every 13 as mine was not trimmed. I haven't heard this before, can you post up a pic?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

GuillaumeC91

New member
A lot of good advice already. One thing, I am not sure if its every '13 or not, but I know mine and many others came from the factory with the pinch seam trimmed. So check yours, might be one thing to take off your list ;)
Seems to me that cutting the pinch seam will be a faster and cheaper solution than a body lift. I haven't done mine, but I have a long arm kit so my 35's don't come close to the pinch seam.
It's not every 13 as mine was not trimmed. I haven't heard this before, can you post up a pic?

Wouldn't you know it! I don't even know if I can say that it was already trimmed, there's barely anything to trim! It's like the seam was relocated on the '13s!

Here's the front. Nothing there!:
Optimized-DSCF2119.jpg

And here's the back. Only a small notched corner:
Optimized-DSCF2120.jpg

This is sweet! Thanks for the tip TheStick!!!:clap2::clap2::clap2:
 

Fir-na-tine

Caught the Bug
Wouldn't you know it! I don't even know if I can say that it was already trimmed, there's barely anything to trim! It's like the seam was relocated on the '13s!

Here's the front. Nothing there!:
View attachment 43475

And here's the back. Only a small notched corner:
View attachment 43476

This is sweet! Thanks for the tip TheStick!!!:clap2::clap2::clap2:

Apparently word of having to cut the pinch seam got back to the design engineers and they decided to eliminate it on the '13......not only was it reduced but angled as to give more room for bigger/taller tires......very cool DE's very cool
 

NY1982JK

New member
It's not every 13 as mine was not trimmed. I haven't heard this before, can you post up a pic?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Mine wasn't trimmed either (Bought it in November 12). I believe it was only done to MY13's produced after January 2013.
 
Top Bottom