So I wanted to make a roof rack instead of buy one for a crazy amount and I didn't really like how any mounted. I'm going to attempt to use the Trektop NX all winter and maybe sell the hardtop next year.
I forgot to take pics when I first started, but the following is what I did. So with this config the Trektop is basically useless to open the roof, but all the windows stay off which is what I was concerned about.
So to start I cut off the brackets that attach the door surrounds to the roll bar and take off the attachment for the metal rod up front allowing you to fold it back as the metal rod blocks the existing holes in the roll bar. I then cut the metal rods allowing 5-7 inches to remain for leverage on door surrounds to the top header bar still has pressure on it.
Since there is nothing attaching the door surround now to the roll bar I drilled two holes into each and put a zip tie through them wrapping it around the roll bar. I was oddly surprised how snug this made it. With thee brackets cut off however though there is a lot of downward force on them, which I address later.
Now is when I started to take pics. So I used 1 foot 3/8ths threaded rods, rubber washers, lock nuts, etc.... I drilled holes in the top matching up the existing holes and put the rod through. Keep in mind that before threading it all the way through you will need to put on the washer, nuts, etc... After sliding it through the top itself. The picture below shows the attachment I made to resolve the downward force put on the door surround from the top. It's adjustable with the bolt to tweak to your needs. I will make a fabric attachment to hide all the nuts and bolts. I also might get a thicker piece of metal as the force on the door surround is more than I expected.
View attachment 47133
As I mentioned earlier having to put on nuts and washers in stages this pic is from the inside giving you and adjustable buffer area from the roll bar to the soft top itself.
View attachment 47137
On the top I used a rubber washer covered slightly with silicone caulk to help any leaks
View attachment 47138
I followed this process on the other side as well and use some metal channel for electrical. Oddly I only found this at Home Depot.
View attachment 47142
View attachment 47144
View attachment 47145
I leveled it out easy enough and will finish the read tomorrow. Any feedback is appreciated as I'd like to make it better if I could! I will paint it all black when done.
I forgot to take pics when I first started, but the following is what I did. So with this config the Trektop is basically useless to open the roof, but all the windows stay off which is what I was concerned about.
So to start I cut off the brackets that attach the door surrounds to the roll bar and take off the attachment for the metal rod up front allowing you to fold it back as the metal rod blocks the existing holes in the roll bar. I then cut the metal rods allowing 5-7 inches to remain for leverage on door surrounds to the top header bar still has pressure on it.
Since there is nothing attaching the door surround now to the roll bar I drilled two holes into each and put a zip tie through them wrapping it around the roll bar. I was oddly surprised how snug this made it. With thee brackets cut off however though there is a lot of downward force on them, which I address later.
Now is when I started to take pics. So I used 1 foot 3/8ths threaded rods, rubber washers, lock nuts, etc.... I drilled holes in the top matching up the existing holes and put the rod through. Keep in mind that before threading it all the way through you will need to put on the washer, nuts, etc... After sliding it through the top itself. The picture below shows the attachment I made to resolve the downward force put on the door surround from the top. It's adjustable with the bolt to tweak to your needs. I will make a fabric attachment to hide all the nuts and bolts. I also might get a thicker piece of metal as the force on the door surround is more than I expected.
View attachment 47133
As I mentioned earlier having to put on nuts and washers in stages this pic is from the inside giving you and adjustable buffer area from the roll bar to the soft top itself.
View attachment 47137
On the top I used a rubber washer covered slightly with silicone caulk to help any leaks
View attachment 47138
I followed this process on the other side as well and use some metal channel for electrical. Oddly I only found this at Home Depot.
View attachment 47142
View attachment 47144
View attachment 47145
I leveled it out easy enough and will finish the read tomorrow. Any feedback is appreciated as I'd like to make it better if I could! I will paint it all black when done.