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WaffenRFD
05-28-2012, 12:20 AM
So I have been looking at lift after lift trying to figure out what lift would be the best for what I want to do and what I really like and for some reason I keep coming back to the Mopar Stage 3 lift with fox shocks terraflex speedbumps it seems like a great lift all in one everything you might want in a lift my question to you guys is is it everything someone is going to need in a 3" lift it says on mopar that you dont have to worry about driveline and re-allignment is that true with this lift? Im new to this all and just want to do the right thing once lifts and those 35's are not cheap! Here is a link to the lift for those who have not heard of it http://www.teraflex.biz/mopar-stage-3-series-3-lift-kit.html thanks for the help!

ichthus
05-29-2012, 12:22 PM
2012 or older JK? 2012's have some different answers

wayoflife
05-29-2012, 02:17 PM
So I have been looking at lift after lift trying to figure out what lift would be the best for what I want to do and what I really like and for some reason I keep coming back to the Mopar Stage 3 lift with fox shocks terraflex speedbumps it seems like a great lift all in one everything you might want in a lift my question to you guys is is it everything someone is going to need in a 3" lift it says on mopar that you dont have to worry about driveline and re-allignment is that true with this lift? Im new to this all and just want to do the right thing once lifts and those 35's are not cheap! Here is a link to the lift for those who have not heard of it http://www.teraflex.biz/mopar-stage-3-series-3-lift-kit.html thanks for the help!

this kit has no front adjustable track bar and that's something that you'd want with 3" of lift. a draglink flip/front track bar relocation kit might be a better option but that's not included either. none of the control arms are adjustable and that would prevent you from dialing in your caster or rear pinion angle which IS something you would need to do if you have a 2-door (new rear driveshaft would be needed at that height). while the shocks are nice, the speed bumps are nothing more than foam in a tube and so not worth the steep price tag.

honestly, for how little you get, this is a really expensive kit and i might recommend something else.

WaffenRFD
06-01-2012, 12:05 AM
this kit has no front adjustable track bar and that's something that you'd want with 3" of lift. a draglink flip/front track bar relocation kit might be a better option but that's not included either. none of the control arms are adjustable and that would prevent you from dialing in your caster or rear pinion angle which IS something you would need to do if you have a 2-door (new rear driveshaft would be needed at that height). while the shocks are nice, the speed bumps are nothing more than foam in a tube and so not worth the steep price tag.

honestly, for how little you get, this is a really expensive kit and i might recommend something else.

Thanks for the input looks like I will be taking my Jeep to an offroad shop here in town the only nice thing is that lift does not cost me 2500 it only costs me 1600 with a discount I have, the dealership told me I wouldnt need a new driveshaft and the caster angle wasnt a problem glad I came here first there are so many options and opinions out there I just want to have as sturdy capable rig back to the drawing board :sigh:

JeepRubicon99787
11-22-2014, 10:37 PM
Well, I hate to say it but I went for the kit and also purchased the front and rear adjustable TF - HD monster adjustable track bars. Cause both my front and rear diffs shifted.

I originally wanted the full traction lift kit but could not get a hold of that kit as no stocks where available.

Now I have a new issue of sudden annoying squeeking sound from the rear of my JK.

Mines a 2014 JK 2dr Rubicon, and after reading up on your write ups. I know I'm going to have to replace the front and rear drive shafts. Which I'm also stuck with which brand to go for this time round? On my last 02 Jeeps builds I went with woody shafts, 1310 and now I'm thinking of a different brand and maybe 1350 this time round, but as usual my challange is getting them shipped to me out here in the middle east.

The only 02 suppliers that have been helping me get parts from the states are quadratec or 4 wheel drive.

JeepRubicon99787
11-22-2014, 10:45 PM
Well the fun in it all I guess is trail and error 😆

jeeeep
11-23-2014, 12:06 AM
So I have been looking at lift after lift trying to figure out what lift would be the best for what I want to do and what I really like and for some reason I keep coming back to the Mopar Stage 3 lift with fox shocks terraflex speedbumps it seems like a great lift all in one everything you might want in a lift my question to you guys is is it everything someone is going to need in a 3" lift it says on mopar that you dont have to worry about driveline and re-allignment is that true with this lift? Im new to this all and just want to do the right thing once lifts and those 35's are not cheap! Here is a link to the lift for those who have not heard of it http://www.teraflex.biz/mopar-stage-3-series-3-lift-kit.html thanks for the help!

hmmm that link is no longer working, as mentioned the speed bumps are too expensive for what they are. Also, when I was looking at other TF lifts during my research, they used cam bolts to retain stock arms - you don't want to go that route.

Here are a couple of options I would look at before buying - you can get Bilstein 5100 shocks or save a little more cash and go with the Rancho 9000 series...

Clayton Offroad 3.5" Entry level or the 3" Evo Enforcer (if you get the flip kit you won't need adjustable track bars). For your 2door you will probably need new drive shafts - not sure if only front or both. I have a 4 door and only needed the front. Compare the kits for what's included.

Northridge offers both kits and don't forget to try the WAYALIFE code, it works on some items so always worth a try to use it.

jeeeep
11-23-2014, 12:12 AM
Well, I hate to say it but I went for the kit and also purchased the front and rear adjustable TF - HD monster adjustable track bars. Cause both my front and rear diffs shifted.

I originally wanted the full traction lift kit but could not get a hold of that kit as no stocks where available.

Now I have a new issue of sudden annoying squeeking sound from the rear of my JK.

Mines a 2014 JK 2dr Rubicon, and after reading up on your write ups. I know I'm going to have to replace the front and rear drive shafts. Which I'm also stuck with which brand to go for this time round? On my last 02 Jeeps builds I went with woody shafts, 1310 and now I'm thinking of a different brand and maybe 1350 this time round, but as usual my challange is getting them shipped to me out here in the middle east.

The only 02 suppliers that have been helping me get parts from the states are quadratec or 4 wheel drive.

IMO if I had to chose I'd go with quadratec and go with JE Reel CV style not the OE/cv not sure how much lift you have but the OE style that uses the stock flange is good for up to 3" (from JE Reel)

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 12:18 AM
IMO if I had to chose I'd go with quadratec and go with JE Reel CV style not the OE/cv not sure how much lift you have but the OE style that uses the stock flange is good for up to 3" (from JE Reel)

Well I have the mopar stage 3 which is 3" of lift.

I have been dealing with quadratec since 2003 and really happy with all there support since.

I'll see if I can get hooked up with JE Reel shafts. Thanks 😆✌

KingCopperhead
11-23-2014, 02:52 PM
I'll throw my two cents in.

I run the mopar stage 3 lift on my 14 JK. It was already installed on the jeep when I purchased it.

The good.
Drives beautifully on the road, as long as you like a firm ride. It won't rattle your fillings out, but the body roll is minimal (for a lifted jk) the steering is responsive, and overall the ride is very comfortable. (as long as you're not expecting cadillac plushness.) Off road, It has not disappointed. Handles washed out green trails at a decent speed very well. Doesn't try to buck all over the place. Flexes well on rocks. So far it's done everything I've asked it to without complaint or breakage. The limit straps and exhaust spacers seem to keep the front DS from contacting the crossover pipe, after 7k miles and two off road trips to Rausch Creek, I haven't started slinging grease yet. (But I am aware that at some point the drive shafts both front and rear since I have a two door will need upgrading.)
Love the fox shocks, but the speed bumps are useless for the type of wheeling that I do.
For what it's worth, All of the wheeling done on this jeep was on the east coast. i'm a newbie rock crawler doing trails that I probably shouldn't be on just yet, but there's only one way to learn. Again, everyone's idea of "wheeling hard" varies.

The bad.
1. It's overpriced. Big time. Unless you get a deal, there's many other lifts out there that give you more bang for the buck.
2. No front track bar, no quick disconnects. I seriously had a wtf moment when I looked at the front endlinks and saw that they weren't a quick disco setup.



The variables.

If you have a very cool dealership, they will not give you shit about big tires and a lift if they install this lift. Mileage here can vary widely, but I've had my jeep in for a tranny problem, and vibration issues, and my service manager always covered my work, and told me that as long as the modifications I've done to the jeep don't cause the problem directly, then i'll be covered. (He's familiar with the magnusson moss act.)

All said and done. I wouldn't buy this lift again. It's not a bad lift, don't get me wrong, but I personally didn't know exactly what I wanted when I bought the jeep.

Over time I'll upgrade the control arms to evo and Springs to evo plus rides (not decided on 3 or 4") along with a mess of other parts. No big problems but it sucks to pay for something and know that eventually you're going to replace it. I've already added jks quick disconnects, and I have a drag link flip kit going on this week. When it's all said and done... The shocks and speed bumps will be all that's left really. Massive waste of money for me.

Like another poster mentioned... learning is part of the fun amirite?

KingCopperhead
11-23-2014, 05:40 PM
The bad.
1. It's overpriced. Big time. Unless you get a deal, there's many other lifts out there that give you more bang for the buck.
2. No front track bar, no quick disconnects. I seriously had a wtf moment when I looked at the front endlinks and saw that they weren't a quick disco setup.
3. Cam bolts. Bleh

I'll have to deal with welding washers into the holes where the cam bolts were.

(times like this I really REALLY wish I'd installed my lift myself.) then I'd know that can bolts are only used to retain stock arms. Ugh. I'm relieved that my kit doesn't use them. But boy do I feel stupid.

2007blackJk
11-23-2014, 06:21 PM
That's not a bad kit. Bought /Installed yourself can save a lot of money. Fixed arms are used for caster. The only negative is there's no adjustability.... The positive. You won't be rebuilding joints every 15k :D

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 06:32 PM
The bad for me with the kit, is the squeeking, drives me nuts hahahaha..

2007blackJk
11-23-2014, 07:14 PM
The bad for me with the kit, is the squeeking, drives me nuts hahahaha..

Where's it squeaking ? You try white lithium spray or maybe Fluid film?

Do you know if the installer tightened everything up with the suspension at droop ? If so ... It's Possible the rubber bushings have a preload on them causing squeaking.

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 07:32 PM
I actually have an idea, I tried to record it today using my phone and actually share it via YouTube which might help. But do excuse the recoding as it's not the best and done using my phone

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 07:35 PM
Where's it squeaking ? You try white lithium spray or maybe Fluid film?

Do you know if the installer tightened everything up with the suspension at droop ? If so ... It's Possible the rubber bushings have a preload on them causing squeaking.

Here is the clip Jk squeeking after lift kit install: http://youtu.be/n-nKJeYamko

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 07:37 PM
Second clip http://youtu.be/6o8i3JTQ9Gs

2007blackJk
11-23-2014, 08:46 PM
Sounds like something is loose. is that a clucking noise too I hear?

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 09:38 PM
I don't know as I hear the squeeking more but you could be right..

2007blackJk
11-23-2014, 09:58 PM
Are the factory coil isolators in place ?

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 10:18 PM
Good question, I will need to check on that as I had the jeep dealer install the kit. I won't be able to check until day after tomorrow as she is currently in for a manufacturer fault found in the front diff, hence the reason I have the pull to the left.

The housing has a slight forward bend 2mm which is also the cause of the "leak".

JeepRubicon99787
11-23-2014, 10:20 PM
I have all the stock parts in a box at home and can check if the isolaters are in the box.

KingCopperhead
11-25-2014, 01:01 PM
Since we are talking about this lift, any idea if I'll need to change my bump stops if I move from 35 to 37 inch tires?

I know that I'll need to trim my fenders, and I have a 14 so my pinch seam is trimmed from the factory.

Thanks. Already learned a little in this thread, and it's been really helpful.

cozdude
11-25-2014, 01:04 PM
Since we are talking about this lift, any idea if I'll need to change my bump stops if I move from 35 to 37 inch tires?

I know that I'll need to trim my fenders, and I have a 14 so my pinch seam is trimmed from the factory.

Thanks. Already learned a little in this thread, and it's been really helpful.

most likely yes you may need a little bit longer bumpstop to help prevent rubbing at full flex. also i know your pinch seam is already trimmer from factory but be ready to trim more off of it and same thru the fender well.

KingCopperhead
11-25-2014, 01:15 PM
most likely yes you may need a little bit longer bumpstop to help prevent rubbing at full flex. also i know your pinch seam is already trimmer from factory but be ready to trim more off of it and same thru the fender well.

Steve, when you say fender well, do you mean like through the tub into the body? Or trimming the inner plastic liners inside the fenders.

cozdude
11-25-2014, 01:28 PM
Steve, when you say fender well, do you mean like through the tub into the body? Or trimming the inner plastic liners inside the fenders.

This area right here that hangs just below where your fenders attach to in the rear. It's part of the body.
112091112092

KingCopperhead
11-25-2014, 01:29 PM
This area right here that hangs just below where your fenders attach to in the rear. It's part of the body.
112091112092

Gotcha, thanks, I was just googling how to do this. Appreciate the pics! Makes it crystal clear.

cozdude
11-25-2014, 01:32 PM
Gotcha, thanks, I was just googling how to do this. Appreciate the pics! Makes it crystal clear.

your welcome. yea that whole area may need to be trimmed. longer bump stops will keep you fram having to do that but it maybe more bump stop than what you are wanting to run.

KingCopperhead
11-25-2014, 01:40 PM
your welcome. yea that whole area may need to be trimmed. longer bump stops will keep you fram having to do that but it maybe more bump stop than what you are wanting to run.

It would depend on how much flex I lose I guess. Not a big fan of cutting the body but also not a fan of slicing up a 400 dollar tire on a metal body edge. The limit straps on this lift kind of prevent contact already, which I don't necessarily like sometimes. For now it's fine but once I move to different drive shafts, remove the exhaust spacers, and add 37s i might just remove the straps altogether or get longer ones. Such a deep rabbit hole of cash when we start modding these things.

cozdude
11-25-2014, 01:44 PM
It would depend on how much flex I lose I guess. Not a big fan of cutting the body but also not a fan of slicing up a 400 dollar tire on a metal body edge. The limit straps on this lift kind of prevent contact already, which I don't necessarily like sometimes. For now it's fine but once I move to different drive shafts, remove the exhaust spacers, and add 37s i might just remove the straps altogether or get longer ones. Such a deep rabbit hole of cash when we start modding these things.

well now your talking about something else. limiting straps help control downtravel not uptravel. uptravel is determined by your bump stops. down travel is determined by your shock length. the only time you should need limiting straps is if your running a cantilever system like the rear DTD. the rear DTD can prop get closer to 18" of travel out fo the 8" coilover but the straps limit it to 12-14".

KingCopperhead
11-25-2014, 01:50 PM
well now your talking about something else. limiting straps help control downtravel not uptravel. uptravel is determined by your bump stops. down travel is determined by your shock length. the only time you should need limiting straps is if your running a cantilever system like the rear DTD. the rear DTD can prop get closer to 18" of travel out fo the 8" coilover but the straps limit it to 12-14".

And I learn a little more every day lol.

I always thought that the straps limited up travel as well by limiting how far one side can droop, thus preventing the other side from stuffing up as far.

Honestly, I never really understood why mopar included them in this kit.
Thanks for the clarification man. I feel a little more noobish now but this is how we learn :-)

JeepRubicon99787
11-26-2014, 11:50 AM
Same here, every information helps and clarifies when we're thinking of upgrading further...

KingCopperhead
11-26-2014, 02:28 PM
Same here, every information helps and clarifies when we're thinking of upgrading further...

Definitely, besides this thread the only info on this lift I've found is on forums that I dont participate in, so I can't trust the info as well as I would if I found it here.

JeepRubicon99787
11-26-2014, 02:55 PM
Exactly why I came here...

JeepRubicon99787
11-26-2014, 02:56 PM
This goes out to all who installed this kit:

So here's a question, what made you choose this kit over all other's? What sold it for you?

wayoflife
11-26-2014, 03:18 PM
Here is the clip Jk squeeking after lift kit install: http://youtu.be/n-nKJeYamko

Can you reproduce the squeak with your Jeep parked or do you have to be moving in order to make it happen? In other words, can you or a friend rock your Jeep back and forth or bounce up and down on the bumper to make it happen? If so, have someone do it while you lay under your Jeep looking for the sound. A creaking like this will cause whatever is causing it to vibrate so touch things like your control arms, shocks and sway bar links and the sound is being made. Whatever is vibrating the most is probably where your problem is. If you have the TeraFlex control arms, you may have a bushing that is dried out and/or blown. A dry sway bar link bushing can cause this sound as well and a polyurethane shock mount can as well. This is where I would start looking.

wayoflife
11-26-2014, 03:22 PM
And I learn a little more every day lol.

I always thought that the straps limited up travel as well by limiting how far one side can droop, thus preventing the other side from stuffing up as far.

Honestly, I never really understood why mopar included them in this kit.
Thanks for the clarification man. I feel a little more noobish now but this is how we learn :-)

What cozdude said is spot on. The only reason why you would need limiting straps is to prevent too much down travel. With a standard coil and shock lift, I really don't know how you could ever get to this point assuming they have both been sized correctly. If they haven't, the straps may be used to help keep the coils from unseating at a full flex but really, that would be stupid. I run limiting straps but only because I run coil overs that offer 14" of vertical travel. Any more droop and my drive lines will bind.

RMC2
11-26-2014, 04:20 PM
I honestly would prefer to use limit straps to limit down travel instead of letting the shock bottoming out be the limit. But I have only experienced that much travel on a JK on the lift getting tires done, not off road. My current experience is that there isn't that much flex going over a speed bump. That was on my 09 with the older mopar two inch lift. I would say the bilstein shocks were way too long as the rear coils would just fall out. I didn't really notice, but my brake lines may have been what limited the travel. That would scare me more. Oh, and that was a firm riding lift. Not terrible, but firm.

Now DTD, 40s and giant boulders is a whole different level of flex.

KingCopperhead
11-26-2014, 05:51 PM
Yeah they definitely don't seem like a necessity at all. But hey, it's a teraflex lift at the end of the day and we all know how sound their engineering is.

Thanks for the advice and information guys. Over time I'll get most of this lift swapped out for what I really want. In the meantime I'm not unhappy with it. Has some quirks but the jeep is a pleasure to drive both on and off road. Once I graduate to more difficult terrain I may change my mind. Time will tell.

Jtmw
11-26-2014, 05:54 PM
So I have been looking at lift after lift trying to figure out what lift would be the best for what I want to do and what I really like and for some reason I keep coming back to the Mopar Stage 3 lift with fox shocks terraflex speedbumps it seems like a great lift all in one everything you might want in a lift my question to you guys is is it everything someone is going to need in a 3" lift it says on mopar that you dont have to worry about driveline and re-allignment is that true with this lift? Im new to this all and just want to do the right thing once lifts and those 35's are not cheap! Here is a link to the lift for those who have not heard of it http://www.teraflex.biz/mopar-stage-3-series-3-lift-kit.html thanks for the help!

Check out my build thread, I'm running 35s on 1.5 inch and have all adjustable lowers and a front rac bar and lines and it works GREAT. Bombproof stuff over here. Love Rock Krawler! Not out of your budget either. Gets a 6/5 stars on my end.

JeepRubicon99787
11-28-2014, 07:06 AM
Can you reproduce the squeak with your Jeep parked or do you have to be moving in order to make it happen? In other words, can you or a friend rock your Jeep back and forth or bounce up and down on the bumper to make it happen? If so, have someone do it while you lay under your Jeep looking for the sound. A creaking like this will cause whatever is causing it to vibrate so touch things like your control arms, shocks and sway bar links and the sound is being made. Whatever is vibrating the most is probably where your problem is. If you have the TeraFlex control arms, you may have a bushing that is dried out and/or blown. A dry sway bar link bushing can cause this sound as well and a polyurethane shock mount can as well. This is where I would start looking.

Well, I get the sound when i move from stand still or going over a speed bump. I don't have any vibrations though.

I did try and rock the jeep side to side and get the same sound but slightly.

The arms provided are from TF but non-adjustable..

I just got my jeep back and will try and locate the source..

Off Pavement
11-28-2014, 03:42 PM
This goes out to all who installed this kit:

So here's a question, what made you choose this kit over all other's? What sold it for you?I

I'll chime in with a little over 40K total miles on this lift as i think it's relevant. My rig is a '13 Unlimited... I chose the Stage III lift primarily BECAUSE of the fixed length control arms with rubber bushings. Additionally, the Speed Bumps up front are nice for the desert roads I often traverse. I have not had a single issue with the lift as it was designed.

On my '97 TJ that I had for 16 years, I went through just about everybody else's flexy jointed arms. Once "dialed in", I've never run into anyone that changed their control arms settings. The Mopar Stage III accounts for the changes with their fixed length arms (again this is on an Unlimited, I can't speak about a 2 door). The lift isn't for everyone, for me it's been ideal. I don't routinely run extremely difficult trails, but I am on the dirt at least weekly on moderate to difficult trips.

With that said, the lift is designed for 35 inch tires and I've got 37's now so to fit them required pinch seam trimming and an adjustable front track bar. Everything worked just fine for the 35's. I replaced the front drive shaft and removed the exhaust spacers and to accommodate the River Raider engine/transmission skid and clearance issue with the stock DS boot.

While it is true that you can probably get a bigger, better, flexier, less expensive lift from numerous suppliers, I don't know of one that could come close to being as reliable.

112451

KingCopperhead
11-28-2014, 04:18 PM
When you replaced the front DS did you remove the limit straps as well? Seems like their main purpose is to keep the factory ds from contacting during flex.

Off Pavement
11-29-2014, 02:14 PM
When you replaced the front DS did you remove the limit straps as well? Seems like their main purpose is to keep the factory ds from contacting during flex.

Nope... I hadn't thought it about to be truthful.

JeepRubicon99787
11-29-2014, 02:51 PM
Well, I have found the the colpurt to my problem...

Due to under high pressure washing, all arms were bone dry and all joints.

All areas joints and arms lubed and no more squeeking.