Front wheels hitting sway bar discos

suicideking

New member
I have a problem when wheeling: When I disconnect the sway bar and attach the links to the posts, maybe once or twice per day, when fully stuffed at full turn, one of the tires will contact the sway bar diconnects.

Sometimes it's minor and so when I hear/feel it, I just turn the the wheel back a little bit. Just wondering how I might prevent this from happening. My last two trips it has nailed the diconnect hard enough to ruin the cotter pin. Bends it like a pretzel. Plus, once it nails the diconnect, I often have a hard time removing it from the peg that holds it.

So my mod shop has suggested getting a front Anti-rock. I would like one, but I'm broke for probably the next year or so due to over spending on other mods.

My Setup: 35 X 12.5 X 15 GY MTR/K. Lift is a 2.5" RK max travel with 4" Evo springs. I also have a Synergy drag link kit with relocation. Check my profile for more info on my build.

I was thinking of getting different disconnects. Maybe the JKS? Or something that I can just take the disconnect bar off completely so I don't have to latch it somewhere.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
what is your backspacing on your wheels? this can play some factor into it hitting
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I know you didn't say as much but, is it safe to assume that it's only rubbing on the passenger side? If so, you're axle is off center and you will either need to install a draglink flip/track bar relocation bracket or an adjustable track bar to correct it. Also, I personally would ditch the storage pins as they can cause a blow out if you keep on hitting it. I have seen it happen too many times.
 

suicideking

New member
It's hitting on the drivers side.

I have the Synergy drag link kit with relocation, Synergy tie road. I do have an adjustable track bar.

Lift components:

High Clearance - Adjustable Lower Control Arms
Adjustable Front Track Bar
Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket

It used to hit on the passenger side. I think that was before I got the drag link kit.

So you think I should ditch the storage pins and just use zip ties or something?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
It's hitting on the drivers side.

I have the Synergy drag link kit with relocation, Synergy tie road. I do have an adjustable track bar.

Lift components:

High Clearance - Adjustable Lower Control Arms
Adjustable Front Track Bar
Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket

It used to hit on the passenger side. I think that was before I got the drag link kit.

So you think I should ditch the storage pins and just use zip ties or something?

Sounds like you have your track bar set too long. Of course, being that you have a flip kit/relocation bracket, you probably can't shorten up your track bar anymore than it already is. I would either reinstall your factory track bar and/or ditch the storage pins.
 

suicideking

New member
Sounds like you have your track bar set too long. Of course, being that you have a flip kit/relocation bracket, you probably can't shorten up your track bar anymore than it already is. I would either reinstall your factory track bar and/or ditch the storage pins.

Cool thanks!

I'll try getting rid of the storage pins first and see if that does the trick. There doesn't seem to be much room up there though. The storage pins are pretty high up. Might need a quick release bolt so I can just remove the disconnect link and then put it back on when done for the day.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I'll try getting rid of the storage pins first and see if that does the trick. There doesn't seem to be much room up there though. The storage pins are pretty high up. Might need a quick release bolt so I can just remove the disconnect link and then put it back on when done for the day.

That might be enough to stop the rubbing. Also, being up high is part of the problem. If you were to position your links parallel to the sway bar arms and frame and strap them there, you might even be okay with that.

My jeep does the same! And I'm stock besides rubi take off tires and wheels I just take the whole link off so I don't rub

Very common problem on stock JK's and yes, removing the links entirely or setting them parallel to the frame rails will be the way to go.

Try adjusting your steering stops if it only happens at full turn when stuffed up.

Problem is, your not only articulates up, it rotates as well. Steer stops won't be enough to prevent the rubbing.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
That might be enough to stop the rubbing. Also, being up high is part of the problem. If you were to position your links parallel to the sway bar arms and frame and strap them there, you might even be okay with that.

this is what i do. when i take my jks quick disco's off i leave the sway bar arm parrallel to the frame. if i push my arms up towards the grill my tires rub the arms at full turn. at parallel it doesnt rub at all.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
this is what i do. when i take my jks quick disco's off i leave the sway bar arm parrallel to the frame. if i push my arms up towards the grill my tires rub the arms at full turn. at parallel it doesnt rub at all.

I think what people don't realize is that your tires travel in an arc as it articulates. If you rotate your sway bar arms up, you are putting it directly in the path of where your tires will sit when flexed out. If you leave your sway bar arms parallel to the frame, it'll sit in the center of the arc and out of the way.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I think what people don't realize is that your tires travel in an arc as it articulates. If you rotate your sway bar arms up, you are putting it directly in the path of where your tires will sit when flexed out. If you leave your sway bar arms parallel to the frame, it'll sit in the center of the arc and out of the way.

that makes perfect sense, i didnt think of it that way before i guess cause when i had my 32's they didnt hit the sway bar if i turned it up towards the grill. once i put my 35's on i felt it rub 5 mins into the day, i imediately turned them back down to parallel since i knew i never had a problem at full turn in my driveway lol
 

suicideking

New member
I think what people don't realize is that your tires travel in an arc as it articulates. If you rotate your sway bar arms up, you are putting it directly in the path of where your tires will sit when flexed out. If you leave your sway bar arms parallel to the frame, it'll sit in the center of the arc and out of the way.

Yeah, that does make sense. Not the best pic, but as you can see, in order to connect to the pegs, I have to pull the sway bar up pretty much as far as it will go.

I'll get rid of the pegs and then secure the links to the sway bar as it normally sits.
 

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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Yeah, that does make sense. Not the best pic, but as you can see, in order to connect to the pegs, I have to pull the sway bar up pretty much as far as it will go.

I'll get rid of the pegs and then secure the links to the sway bar as it normally sits.

Yup, that's your biggest problem right there. Getting rid of the pegs and securing the links parallel to the frame rails is all you'll most likely need to do.
 
this is what i do. when i take my jks quick disco's off i leave the sway bar arm parrallel to the frame. if i push my arms up towards the grill my tires rub the arms at full turn. at parallel it doesnt rub at all.

I have this same setup but I go a bit further and bungee my swaybar up so it cant work itself down and in the way of things:thumbup:

We are Jeep..Resistance is futile..
 
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