Body armor install questions....

Rivertoys

New member
OK, I am getting close to pulling the triger on some lower body armor (2dr JK). Probably EVO but possibly Poison Spyder rocker armor. No sliders yet.... I have done the searches and read the install threads I've found while Googling around. Couple questions....

1) The dreaded Nut Sert method... I'm OK with this process, but doesn't the nutsert itself leave a gap behind the armor? Can't water and sand particals get in there and eventually rust your body?

2) Does all armor use the nutsert process or do some call for bolting, backing plates, or some other process?

3) does anyone use any sealers between the armor and the body, specifically at the bottom of the door?

Last question.... (until the answers create more questions! LOL)
4) Poison Spyder offers aluminum or steel armor. Any input on the durability of aluminum or the weight savings? I'm not someone who intends to go out and pull this thing over rocks, I'm more a moderate trail guy - not so extreme. If the worst happens and there is a hard strike, I want to be able to close the door. :thinking:

Thank you folks for your thoughts and replies!!!
 
Last edited:

Serg5000

New member
I'm not sure why think nut serts are something to dread. You drill a hole, pop one in and spread it using the proper tool. Piece of cake.
When i installed my EVO rock armor, I ran a bead of silicone around the entire inside edge of the plate before mounting it. Sealed up nicely.

As far as aluminum goes, i do not have ant experience with it.
 
Mine are on with pop rivets, but will be changing to nutserts soon. Was going over the sealer issue with someone else the other day and if you dont feel ok with the silicon, Hf sells toolchest liner on a roll that would work as a gasket.

We are Jeep..Resistance is futile..
 

Rivertoys

New member
I'm not sure why think nut serts are something to dread. You drill a hole, pop one in and spread it using the proper tool. Piece of cake.

I agree and like I said, I'm fine with the process. If you search though, that is by far the biggest issue that comes up.

Thank you for the silicon suggestion!
 

Serg5000

New member
I agree and like I said, I'm fine with the process. If you search though, that is by far the biggest issue that comes up.

Thank you for the silicon suggestion!

I went with silicone because I wanted a rather permanent seal. There are a lot of hole drilled and I wanted to make sure it was sealed good. Silicone still allows for minor movement. Tool chest liner I think will allow water to get behind the plate. Anything other than a sealer it going to allow not only water, but dirt and mud in between eventually.

I will be removing one of my rock guards soon to repair some damage from an accident. I will try and remember to post if I found signs of water or mud, dirt behind the plate.
 

suicideking

New member
Steel is better if you're going to play on rocks. If it's just for looks or you're not going to bash it into things (sand dunes, etc), aluminum is better because it's lighter.
 

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
OK, I am getting close to pulling the triger on some lower body armor (2dr JK). Probably EVO but possibly Poison Spyder rocker armor. No sliders yet.... I have done the searches and read the install threads I've found while Googling around. Couple questions....

1) The dreaded Nut Sert method... I'm OK with this process, but doesn't the nutsert itself leave a gap behind the armor? Can't water and sand particals get in there and eventually rust your body?

2) Does all armor use the nutsert process or do some call for bolting, backing plates, or some other process?

3) does anyone use any sealers between the armor and the body, specifically at the bottom of the door?

Last question.... (until the answers create more questions! LOL)
4) Poison Spyder offers aluminum or steel armor. Any input on the durability of aluminum or the weight savings? I'm not someone who intends to go out and pull this thing over rocks, I'm more a moderate trail guy - not so extreme. If the worst happens and there is a hard strike, I want to be able to close the door. :thinking:

Thank you folks for your thoughts and replies!!!

If you are not going to bump into rocks like some of the guys in here, chances are you are going to bump tree branches and such. If thats the case, personally, I'd go with aluminum and save the weight. I run steel armor where I know I'll contact rocks (ie belly) but everything else I like to keep the weight down, so I run aluminum.
 
Top Bottom