Should i do an axle swap?

SoCalDozer

New member
So my plan after deployment this year was to re gear and do lockers. Now I'm second guessing my self if I should just swap in a currie ford 9 inch or rock jock Dana 60. I don't have immediate plans to go to a huge tire. Only 33s for
Now but planning 35s. Didn't think I would need any larger than that since its a 2 dr. My question is how likely am I to break that d30. I see you guys break stuff in the videos all the time it seems like. And that's always with Stronger stuff than I have
 

JandSJK

New member
I'll start by saying this is all my opinion and thats about it. I have been running the D30 with 5.13 greas and 35's for a little over a year now. The housings have been gussetted and sleeved. I have not had any breakage thus yet. I will add that the area i live in Oregon isnt known for its rock crawling like you have in socal. I also drive with a pretty light foot Mostly muddy roads with a few technical rocky sections here and there. The main thing you have to ask is realisticly where is most of you driving/wheeling going to be done and how hard are you gonna push your jeep. I would love to put D60's under my jeep but as of now my diving/wheeling hasn't brought forward the need. If your plan is to run 33's maybe just gussett and sleeve the axle and spend some money on body armor and such. Not sure any of that is really helpful. Axles a lot of $$$$ you might be able to spend on other upgrades that are better suited to what you are going to use the jeep for. Good luck with the future mods. :thumb:
 

Bullwinckle

Hooked
I would say do the axle swap, since you are wanting to switch out gears and install lockers what better to just upgrade and get it all at once. That is what I am doing with my sport. I need lockers and gears and plan to get them once I upgrade to the 60s since the axle comes with both. Its a good way to save money. :yup: Hope this helps a little
 

StrizzyChris

New member
So my plan after deployment this year was to re gear and do lockers. Now I'm second guessing my self if I should just swap in a currie ford 9 inch or rock jock Dana 60. I don't have immediate plans to go to a huge tire. Only 33s for
Now but planning 35s. Didn't think I would need any larger than that since its a 2 dr. My question is how likely am I to break that d30. I see you guys break stuff in the videos all the time it seems like. And that's always with Stronger stuff than I have

There are too many ways to answer this. Your a 2door so weight is less of an issue on the axle. What are you going to do with it? Fire roads? The only way you, or anyone else, can answer this is if you are being realistic about how your going to push your jeep. 35's could easily be supported with gussets and a locker in a D30. Total cost to you would be about $1,200+/- if you do the install (ARB would run you a couple hundred higher).

BUT going with a Pro Rock D44 with locker would be $4,000. Its a much beefier set up and would be able to handle pretty much ANYTHING you throw at it in a 35" tire.

If you go the re-gear route, ORE will provide the gears and install for 1K. If you provide the locker I'm sure they would install it with your gears at the same time for minimal charge since they already have it open for you.
 

SoCalDozer

New member
I was thinking about that deal ORE has going on but I won't be able to do it til after deployment next January when I'm back. Not sure if the deal will still be going on. Also i found a place that sells Yukon air lockers front and rear, master install kits, gears, and an arb compressor all for 1999 shipped if I do it my self. Then I could just sleeve and gusset it.
How hard are ring and pinion swaps? I've heard people say don't do it but I work on helicopters for a living so high tolerances aren't really a new thing to me.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
I was thinking about that deal ORE has going on but I won't be able to do it til after deployment next January when I'm back. Not sure if the deal will still be going on. Also i found a place that sells Yukon air lockers front and rear, master install kits, gears, and an arb compressor all for 1999 shipped if I do it my self. Then I could just sleeve and gusset it.
How hard are ring and pinion swaps? I've heard people say don't do it but I work on helicopters for a living so high tolerances aren't really a new thing to me.

You cant beat that deal with a stick! They have had the re-gear deal going since last fall, so I'm sure they will have it for a while to come as well.

If you are skilled and have the tools, then its totally doable for self install. People usually have the hardest time setting the pinion depth correctly to get good drive and coast pattern. You will also need to be careful when setting the crush sleeve. Its hard as hell to crush, but then easily overcrushed once you do. You will need an inchpound tourque for this. I think its around 18inchpound but cant remember(use the install instructions to be sure). Also there is a guage youll need to set backlash. I would do it with someone else who has already done it before if you are not experienced.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
which deal? the ORE one or the lockers and gears one

Both are good prices, but gears, master install kit, lockers for both axles and compressor for 2k is a hell of a price. The Yukon lockers alone would run you abour 1500

If they are a vendor or a small buisness, I would just talk to them and see how much to upgrade to the larger compressor, since I'm sure its the one to just run lockers. You wont regret that upgrade for tire reinflating. Otherwise you could later just go with a Warn winch powerplant as your airsupply.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
Then I could just sleeve and gusset it.

If your not much a welder and dont want to run the risk of weakening your axle tubes by drilling holes in it with the weld on sleeves, you might consider Nitro sleaves. They are hammer in, and I have read a lot of good reviews of them. They wouldnt be as good in supporting twisting force on the axle housing as the welded version, but direct impact and bending force would be well covered. I just know I wouldnt trust my pathetic welding capabilities. :nono:
 
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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
So my plan after deployment this year was to re gear and do lockers. Now I'm second guessing my self if I should just swap in a currie ford 9 inch or rock jock Dana 60. I don't have immediate plans to go to a huge tire. Only 33s for
Now but planning 35s. Didn't think I would need any larger than that since its a 2 dr. My question is how likely am I to break that d30. I see you guys break stuff in the videos all the time it seems like. And that's always with Stronger stuff than I have

being that you live in san diego, the opportunities you have to wheel hard are there. and, if you do choose to use your jeep to play hard, upgrading at least your front axle is a good idea. necessary? no, but the odds of you breaking a dana 30 it are a lot higher when running 35's or bigger and locked up. if you don't think you'll go any bigger than 35, it's definitely a tough call especially if you're on a budget but, if you can afford it, getting a prorock 44 is really what you'd want. the rear axle will be just fine.

as far as gears go, off road evolution offers forum members the $999 discount all the time. even if you can do it yourself, it's a tough deal to beat.
 

tkuntz

New member
I was thinking about that deal ORE has going on but I won't be able to do it til after deployment next January when I'm back. Not sure if the deal will still be going on. Also i found a place that sells Yukon air lockers front and rear, master install kits, gears, and an arb compressor all for 1999 shipped if I do it my self. Then I could just sleeve and gusset it.
How hard are ring and pinion swaps? I've heard people say don't do it but I work on helicopters for a living so high tolerances aren't really a new thing to me.

Where did you find the deal about all the lockers, master install kit, gears, and compressor?
 

jelliott076

New member
being that you live in san diego, the opportunities you have to wheel hard are there. and, if you do choose to use your jeep to play hard, upgrading at least your front axle is a good idea. necessary? no, but the odds of you breaking a dana 30 it are a lot higher when running 35's or bigger and locked up. if you don't think you'll go any bigger than 35, it's definitely a tough call especially if you're on a budget but, if you can afford it, getting a prorock 44 is really what you'd want. the rear axle will be just fine.

as far as gears go, off road evolution offers forum members the $999 discount all the time. even if you can do it yourself, it's a tough deal to beat.

I've been wondering the same thing and I'm glad this got posted. I was lucky enough to inherit my axles (D44's) and most of my rig from a guy that couldn't afford his credit card bills. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 37" Nitto tires but wasn't certain if the D44 were good or if I woud have to go up to the 60's. It sound's like I will be OK with what I have.

--Josh
 

SoCalDozer

New member
I've been wondering the same thing and I'm glad this got posted. I was lucky enough to inherit my axles (D44's) and most of my rig from a guy that couldn't afford his credit card bills. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 37" Nitto tires but wasn't certain if the D44 were good or if I woud have to go up to the 60's. It sound's like I will be OK with what I have.

--Josh

im not sure how much weight affects the axles but I know the nitto's are one of the heaviest tires out there
 

StrizzyChris

New member
I've been wondering the same thing and I'm glad this got posted. I was lucky enough to inherit my axles (D44's) and most of my rig from a guy that couldn't afford his credit card bills. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 37" Nitto tires but wasn't certain if the D44 were good or if I woud have to go up to the 60's. It sound's like I will be OK with what I have.

--Josh

The guys at Dynatrac recommend seriously considering PR-60's once you hit 40's, and PR-44 when wheeling hard with tires 35 to 37ish. 37 to 40 is a grey area where you have to know how hard your going to push it. Of course these numbers are generalizations and vary based on weight of rig, wheels and tires.

im not sure how much weight affects the axles but I know the nitto's are one of the heaviest tires out there

Weight and centripetal force has everything to do with it. They combine to really add up on a semi-float axle shaft, the nuckles on the front axle and axle tubes.
 

SoCalDozer

New member
The guys at Dynatrac recommend seriously considering PR-60's once you hit 40's, and PR-44 when wheeling hard with tires 35 to 37ish. 37 to 40 is a grey area where you have to know how hard your going to push it. Of course these numbers are generalizations and vary based on weight of rig, wheels and tires.



Weight and centripetal force has everything to do with it. They combine to really add up on a semi-float axle shaft, the nuckles on the front axle and axle tubes.

Well it sounds like i dont need anything extreme as a 60 then, specially since I have a 2 door.
what about a rubicon 44 front? I can get one of those a bit cheaper and just gusset and sleeve it. brand new they are 3k already set up with 4.10's and a locker. 4.10s is what I was wanting anyways

After thinking about it some though. i might just stay with the 30 and sleeve and gusset it for now. I will wheel it but wont be anything crazy that often anyways since the navy keeps me busy. at least until I get out at least.
I might just have to carry a spare set of axle shafts with me and u joints for when it does break. would save quite a bit of money that way.
 
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