2013 Rubicon Unlimited Build

I will be looking to trade my 2010 JKU in for a 2013 JKUR later this year and want to get some advice on what order I should go in by way of mods. Since my money is not unlimited, mods will be bought over time. I hope to have this thing ready for bdmckenna's Colorado trip next summer. The parts that I already have, that I will be switching over to the new jeep, are:
Coast 1310 front driveshaft
Trektop NX
PSC evap skid
IPF Headlights
Trek Armor custom seat covers
LoD sliders
Spyderlock wheels
RK heavy duty tie rod
Fox SS shock

I am planning on adding the EVO DoubleD long arm kit to the new jeep. So from there, which mods and in what order would you guys recommend? Axle reinforcement? Bumpers and winch? Don't need specific brands, just a general list of what I need (like chromoly axle shafts, gussetts, etc...)
Help me make it a successful summer next year (and many more to come...) by helping me build my next rig!

Edit: let the list begin!
Axle:
PR44 or
Gussetts front
lockers front and rear
diff covers front and rear
35 spline chromoly shafts front and rear
(ball joints?)

Suspension:
Double D with high clearance rear brackets and bilsteins
(Upgrade to bolt on coilovers down the road a ways)

Armor:
Oil pan skid
front bumper
rear bumper w/ rock skins

Other:
Winch
Cb
37" tires
(Trim stock fenders)


What else?

I would go with armor first to protect your investment, then just add on as needed. :idontknow:

DA RUNT said:

I would go with armor first to protect your investment, then just add on as needed. :idontknow:

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Haha, that's all you're gonna give me? Come on, man! I can't add on as needed in the backwoods of Colorado... So I need to make sure I'm ready before then. Armor covers a LOT of different parts too. I am not going with full skids, after reading Eddie's advice on the matter, so what armor are you referring to specifically...? I also need help deciding on 35 vs 37, and all the subsequent parts necessary to have a sound, reliable setup with the recommended tire size... I know 37s require some additional reinforcement, but what all is required? Want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

I'd sell the Evap skid- pretty sure he new ones come with one (?)
Add the 35 spline rear shafts with an arb locker
Sleeve gusset the front and add chromoly shafts 35 spline and an arb locker
EVO long arm high clearance with coil overs
37s
Sell the 1310 shaft and get a 1350.
Rock lights (sr-m) lol
Sports cage.....
I could go on but you have limited funds already

Good luck!!

388charlie said:

I'd sell the Evap skid- pretty sure he new ones come with one (?)
Add the 35 spline rear shafts with an arb locker
Sleeve gusset the front and add chromoly shafts 35 spline and an arb locker
EVO long arm high clearance with coil overs
37s
Sell the 1310 shaft and get a 1350.
Rock lights (sr-m) lol
Sports cage.....
I could go on but you have limited funds already

Good luck!!

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Great! Is the 1350 necessary? Should I get the airlocker first, then the 1350? Also, where would bumpers fit into this mix? And if I'm planning on going 37" max on tires, will the stock D44 with gussetts be plenty strong enough, considering I won't be taking it on rocks every weekend?

BTW, guess I should have mentioned this earlier... It will mostly be a DD, but every month or two when I AM able to get offroad, I want it to be as capable as possible. I want it to have great road manners, but also be able to hang with anyone (well, maybe not Eddie, Mel, and Greg, but mostly anyone) for week long trips once a year. It would be great to eventually qualify for the JK Experience, but that might be years away. I don't want to cut corners here, even of it means taking years to build (although hopefully it won't be!). For example, I'd love a PR44 or even front and rear D60s, and the Double Throwdown setup, but I know that I don't need it and that I wouldn't ever fully utilize its potential (until I move west and out of Illinois, but that might be awhile...).

388charlie said:

I'd sell the Evap skid- pretty sure he new ones come with one (?)
Add the 35 spline rear shafts with an arb locker
Sleeve gusset the front and add chromoly shafts 35 spline and an arb locker
EVO long arm high clearance with coil overs
37s
Sell the 1310 shaft and get a 1350.
Rock lights (sr-m) lol
Sports cage.....
I could go on but you have limited funds already

Good luck!!

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Also, you mentioned the ARB lockers front and rear. You recommend pulling out the stock rubi lockers right from the get-go?

I guess I could have been more specific :doh: I don't change anything until I have a need to tho. I make sure I have rocker protection and a winch then just go til something breaks or limits what I want to do.

Once you have the 2012 Rubicon in your driveway this is the order i would beef/strengthen it...

1.) Aftermarket Control Arms
2.) Chromoly shafts front/rear
3.) Aftermarket Diff Covers and Lower Control Arm skids
4.) EVO Protek Skid System
5.) Rock Sliders
6.) Bigger Tires
7.) Bumpers

Then consider a winch, maybe aftermarket or trimmed fender flares, corner guards.

Putting JKS control arms on my JK really tightened up the steering and overall feel of onroad/offroad manners of my jeep.

In my opinion that list takes care of strengthening and protecting your jeep.

TX_JK said:

Once you have the 2012 Rubicon in your driveway this is the order i would beef/strengthen it...

1.) Aftermarket Control Arms
2.) Chromoly shafts front/rear
3.) Aftermarket Diff Covers and Lower Control Arm skids
4.) EVO Protek Skid System
5.) Rock Sliders
6.) Bigger Tires
7.) Bumpers

Then consider a winch, maybe aftermarket or trimmed fender flares, corner guards.

Putting JKS control arms on my JK really tightened up the steering and overall feel of onroad/offroad manners of my jeep.

In my opinion that list takes care of strengthening and protecting your jeep.

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1.) I am going with the EVO Double D, as previously stated.
2.) Good call on the shafts, they were on my mental list, especially if I go 37's
3.) Diff covers definitely. Not sure if the Double D has the LCA skids included, but I'll be getting them with my EVO gussett kit...
4.) After reading what Eddie, Greg and others have said about aftermarket, full skid systems, I consider them a waste of money and weight. I think I'll just skid a couple things (like evap if still necessary, and an oil skid).
5.) As mentioned, I have LoD sliders already that I plan on transferring to the new rig.
6.) Tires for sure, they get purchased with the lift.
7.) Bumpers- this is where I get fuzzy, and one of the reasons I posted this thread. With all the structural things that need to be done, as well as things for the trail like gps and a cb, I don't know where to put front/rear bumper and winch on the priority list.

Also hoping someone can tell me if the 4.10 gears will be enough with the new motor to run 37" tires without needing to re-gear. Also, if I go with 37's over 35's, what other structural mods are necessary? Is a 1310 front DS and stock rear DS adequate? Are the stock lockers ok with 37's? Chromoly axle shafts front and rear? Any other structural mods necessary to run the added size and weight of 37's?

Id still move up to the 1350 with 37" tires. The 1310 might handle it but you might brake u joints- I busted two joints on my je reel 1310 with only 35s and on road! Sure it was already there waiting to happen.
-I'd run the rubi lockers till they break- but if your adding new shafts why not bump up the spline count at the same time? So that would mean new locker for the 35 spline shafts. I'm sure you can sell off the rubi locker for a few hundred along with the stock shafts.
-skids- true I'd run the factory ones with the added trans and oil skid and leave the factory ones in place.
-bumpers, I'd just remove the rear stock and go without. Front you can chop and add a winch plate or get a new front and winch in the beginning. Every rig should have a winch, you can't rely on your buddy having one all the time. So towards the top of the list.
- flairs, i would just cut the stock ones! Cheap and looks good- Eddie should make up a templet an sell for the cuts!! Hint hint.
And it's be said that the new engine can push 37s with the 4.10s with out the feeling of needing new gears. So you shouldn't have to worry about that- just a programmer to adjust for your bigger tires.

Good job picking to do this right from the start!! I think you'll like the double d on 37s! Are you getting the high clearance or jut the standard long arm kit? Make sure you have a drag link flip also!! Bump steer is a bitch. Might also want to look into a hydro steer too!! An on board air set up is always a plus to.

388charlie said:

Good job picking to do this right from the start!! I think you'll like the double d on 37s! Are you getting the high clearance or jut the standard long arm kit? Make sure you have a drag link flip also!! Bump steer is a bitch. Might also want to look into a hydro steer too!! An on board air set up is always a plus to.

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Well I felt like I was kinda flying by the seat of my pants on this first build. Since then though, I joined this forum and jk forum and have been doing a lot of reading! I bug Eddie a lot too, for when I have questions I can't find answers to (since the "Search" feature on jk forum crashes every single time on mobile, hint hint). I think I picked good products on this first rig, since I tend to research everything heavily before buying, but I had no real direction and I was just adding pieces here and there. I'd like to start this next build with an objective in mind and tailor every detail to work in unison.

Anyway, the Double D comes with the drag link flip kit. Currently have EVO's flip kit on my '10 and I wouldn't drive a lifted jeep without one! Like everything EVO makes, it was a pain in the butt to install, but it works so well you quickly forget all the cussing, blood, and sweat it took to install. Haha.
I would like the high clearance kit, but currently you have to get coilovers up front and the EVOLever in the rear. The new bolt on coilover kit will supposedly also have the high clearance brackets, but I'm waiting to see the price on those first... Sounds like a great kit and probably the best one out their for me personally and my particular driving profile, but I'm still skeptical about what the price will be. I think the Double D would work great for me too, and hopefully it can be upgraded in the future with the high clearance brackets and bolt on coilovers if I move somewhere that requires a better suspension.

As far as axle stuff, what additional reinforcment will I need to handle 37s? I think I remember Eddie saying they will eat up the factory e-lockers. So the lockers need to be replaced. Also need stronger axles and possibly a stronger front DS. What about the rear DS? What about the brakes? Will they handle the added rotational weight well enough? Also, if I change out the lockers and axle shafts to 35 spline, will the mean I need to swap the gears too? And won't it make my stock shafts unusable, therefore necessitating that I buy 2 of every axle shaft so I have a spare for the trail? Also, I know ARB airlockers are the best, but are the Yukon airlockers any good? 2 grand for new ARB lockers, when I'll be pulling out perfectly good stock e-lockers, makes me cringe... Haha. Also, I have read many opinions on this and they seem to go both ways, but I'll bring it up anyways... After the EVO gussett package, new chromoly shafts, new locker, and diff cover, I'm looking at just over 2 grand for parts alone on my front axle. Then add in $500+ to weld and install everything (I'm not confident enough to handle gearing type stuff) and I'm sitting just south of $3k probably. With that setup, am I going to be close to as good as a PR44? Because a loaded PR44 from Northridge is about $5k... Is it really $2k better than they heavily modified stock axle...? I can't see it being that much better, since almost all the PR44 components have been put into the mopar axle at that point anyways, the housing is just different... Thoughts? $5k for a damn axle is a hard pill to swallow...

Thanks for everyone's help! Wanting to make this rig a complete success, and the info you guys provide as a community and as individuals is very, very helpful. Jeep-wave to you all!

Prime8 said:

The new bolt on coilover kit will supposedly also have the high clearance brackets, but I'm waiting to see the price on those first...

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I am not sure if they are high clearance brackets? I was looking at this pics, and it apears they come with a new axle side bracket, but not sure if its high clearance. I doubt it adds any clearance since the kit is supposed to be DIY in your driveway and I would assume making it HC that would require some modification. I am currious of this myself now

Prime8 said:

As far as axle stuff, what additional reinforcment will I need to handle 37s? I think I remember Eddie saying they will eat up the factory e-lockers. So the lockers need to be replaced. Also need stronger axles and possibly a stronger front DS. What about the rear DS? What about the brakes? Will they handle the added rotational weight well enough? Also, if I change out the lockers and axle shafts to 35 spline, will the mean I need to swap the gears too? And won't it make my stock shafts unusable, therefore necessitating that I buy 2 of every axle shaft so I have a spare for the trail? Also, I know ARB airlockers are the best, but are the Yukon airlockers any good? 2 grand for new ARB lockers, when I'll be pulling out perfectly good stock e-lockers, makes me cringe... Haha. Also, I have read many opinions on this and they seem to go both ways, but I'll bring it up anyways... After the EVO gussett package, new chromoly shafts, new locker, and diff cover, I'm looking at just over 2 grand for parts alone on my front axle. Then add in $500+ to weld and install everything (I'm not confident enough to handle gearing type stuff) and I'm sitting just south of $3k probably. With that setup, am I going to be close to as good as a PR44? Because a loaded PR44 from Northridge is about $5k... Is it really $2k better than they heavily modified stock axle...? I can't see it being that much better, since almost all the PR44 components have been put into the mopar axle at that point anyways, the housing is just different... Thoughts? $5k for a damn axle is a hard pill to swallow...

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I could not agree with you more...IF you are going to do ALL of those upgrades I would just do a swap. It comes with all the factory bracketry, gear choice, ARB's, upgraded axle shafts of choice, yoke of choice, etc. so you wont have to pay for labor.

When it comes to the strength a PR definitely is better. The biggest weakness of stock isnt the housing, its the tubes and knuckles. a PR tube is significantly thicker(in the 44) while maintaining narrow external tube diameter and clearance. They will allow you to upgrade to a 35 spline shaft also. I believe if you sleeve a stock, you will not have the clearance to upgrade with a higher spline count shaft.

Also if you have a rubi, you can easily sell it for no less than 1500, and that really helps make up the difference in cost. Again...all IF you will be doing ALL those upgrades

StrizzyChris said:

I am not sure if they are high clearance brackets? I was looking at this pics, and it apears they come with a new axle side bracket, but not sure if its high clearance. I doubt it adds any clearance since the kit is supposed to be DIY in your driveway and I would assume making it HC that would require some modification. I am currious of this myself now

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Everything I've heard says that Rubicat is running the HC brackets with the new EVO bolt on coilovers... Maybe Eddie will speak up and let us know for sure, since EVO is taking so long to release this kit and is extremely tight-lipped about any details.

Updated original post with current list...

Prime8 said:

Everything I've heard says that Rubicat is running the HC brackets with the new EVO bolt on coilovers...

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Ah ic what u mean. I was under the impression this was the HC brackets for the LCA's but now you have me second guessing my assumptions as well lol

Prime8 said:

Suspension:
Double D or potentially new bolt on coilovers.

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I noticed on your updated list that under suspension it says Double D OR coilovers? The coilover kit will not include a LA kit also. I believe, unless they also make a complete kit out of it, that it will be front and rear shock/coil replacement to run coilovers with your existing lift. So not sure what you are thinking about for the track bars, adjustible controll arms, drag link etc.?

Rubicat is running the EVO long arm control arm kit with high clearance brackets. These brackets relocate the frame mounting points on the lower control arms to provide better clearance. For the rear coilover, Rubicat also runs EVO Rockstars which provide better clearance than the stock rear lower shock mounts (the mounts on the rear axle).

Sharkey said:

Rubicat is running the EVO long arm control arm kit with high clearance brackets. These brackets relocate the frame mounting points on the lower control arms to provide better clearance. For the rear coilover, Rubicat also runs EVO Rockstars which provide better clearance than the stock rear lower shock mounts (the mounts on the rear axle).

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Well there you have it. WOL is running HC brackets for shocks AND LCA. BUT....are the rockstars part of the actual kit or just upgrades he had placed. AHHH I love speculation and chat on a product thats not even released hahaha :bleh:

up front, the double d brackets are the same. rubicat is running high clearance brackets in the rear BUT, these had to be ordered separately and it does require welding. the double d kit is a "bolt-on" kit and because of it, the rear high clearance brackets are NOT included with the kit.

StrizzyChris said:

Well there you have it. WOL is running HC brackets for shocks AND LCA. BUT....are the rockstars part of the actual kit or just upgrades he had placed. AHHH I love speculation and chat on a product thats not even released hahaha :bleh:

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Speculation is fun so as long as it doesn't turn into a bitch session after its released... a lá the teraflex tire carrier thread on jk-forum.

Edit: I was not suggesting anyone here would do that.