1310 or 1350 shafts?

jnabird333

jnabird333

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Getting ready to order drive-shafts in prep for the lift. I've been wavering on 1310 or 1350 joints.

I will be running 35s (Likely Goodyear MT/R-K) I have also kicked the idea around of a smaller 37 like the BGF KM2 but am avoiding this as I don't really want to re-gear (yet) and I feel the 37s will stretch my 4.10s a little more than I like.

The thing that has me kicking the 1350s around is my terrain. While I prefer a slow crawl, the Ohio River Valley often throws long slimy hill climbs that require a fair amount of wheel speed. These climbs usually have embedded rocks and/or tree stumps that can give you "sudden" traction. Twice this year I watched 1310 joints fail on one of these climbs, (Granted they were cheap joints and not quality ones.)

I drive my rig to and from the trail (13' JKUR) and a trailer & tow-rig is WAY down the road.

I read Eddie's Coast 1310 Jointed Shaft install and I know he feels the 1310s are okay, for up to 37s, but there really wasn't much talk about wheeling techniques and I am at the edge in size????

What are your thoughts?
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
great question! im am interested as well since i will need new shafts at some point and i dont know the direction to go either.
 
bl17z90

bl17z90

New member
This debate has come up a few times but I have never really seen a definitive answer. The basic jist I get is for 35's and smaller 1310 and large 1350. But thats my own observation based on all the opinions thrown around.

Very interested if we can get a more definitive answer.
 
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StrizzyChris

StrizzyChris

New member
How much lift are you going with? If less ~3.5" or less, I wouldn't replace a stock shaft with a weaker 1310, nor would I spend all that cash for the more expensive 1350. The front you'll have to replace with much lift at all and if I were spending the cash, I'd just do it right and go with 1350 (provided you wheel like you explained that you do on a regular basis). If it is an occasional weekend warrior but mostly DD I'd say you could easily get away with 1310s
 
bl17z90

bl17z90

New member
cozdude said:
great question! im am interested as well since i will need new shafts at some point and i dont know the direction to go either.
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Need a new shaft? Sounds like a personal problem


^See? This is the kind of stuff that usually throws these threads off topic. Sorry for being an :asshat: :bleh:
 
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bl17z90

bl17z90

New member
Sorry to post multiple times but I had a thought.

Steve, people like us only wheel once a month max usually could be called weekend warriors. However with some of us growing the size of our rigs, or in my case my cockiness in my rigs abilities :crazyeyes: we are starting to do more difficult things that may give more abuse so a 1350 may not be a bad idea.


I am with Chris where I am strongly considering a 1350 just so it is done right the first time. :yup:
 
JeepFan

JeepFan

Hooked
IMHO you should be fine with 1310 shafts. Unless you were going to run 40's or dana 60's you would probably not benefit from the slight increase in strength running 1350's. I've been running JE Reel shafts in my JK for over 40K miles with no issues. Just make sure you get a drive shaft with good spicer u-joints.

The rule of thumb I go by is you beef up one component you move the failure to the next weakest component. I would rather have to replace a U-Joint than say broken gears or blown out T-Case. :crazyeyes:

Good luck with your build and for goodness sake, post some pics! :yup:
 
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noroad

noroad

New member
I did 1310s with upgraded joints for my 2dr on 37s, i did this for couple reasons one ppl seem to be ok with that combo and mainly because if im going heavy on the skinny and in not thinking right i have a better chance of snapping a ujoint then a shaft or r/p which is a way faster fix.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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StrizzyChris said:
How much lift are you going with? If less ~3.5" or less, I wouldn't replace a stock shaft with a weaker 1310, nor would I spend all that cash for the more expensive 1350. The front you'll have to replace with much lift at all and if I were spending the cash, I'd just do it right and go with 1350 (provided you wheel like you explained that you do on a regular basis). If it is an occasional weekend warrior but mostly DD I'd say you could easily get away with 1310s
Click to expand...

I am going with an advertised 3.5" lift. I am keeping things a light as I can so I may see more like 4" of lift (not banking on it though). I am running a TF leveling kit now and have some heat/rub marks on the stock front shaft expansion boot from getting close to the exhaust. I doubt the stocker will last long with any more height. I think you can get by with more lift on an older JK (3.8L) than you can with a newer (3.6L). I will NOT run exhaust spacers.

While I don't have a tow-rig, I only drive my Jeep for play. When she comes outta the shop (my barn) I am usually headed for a trail. Once there, I try to keep a level head, but we all know what testosterone does and I often bite off more than I should chew with a drive home ahead of me.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
FWIW, I wrote that install article over 3 years ago and since that time, I have learned enough to change my opinion on a few things. First off and most importantly, it should be known that a 1310 is actually weaker than a factory shaft. The one u-joint you will find on a factory front shaft is actually a 1330. While it will get the job done and address clearance issues, I can say that I have and have see them break on the trail where as I have yet to break or see too many 1350's on the trail. With the cost difference really not being that much more, I personally would recommend a 1350 shaft. At least, that's how I see things now.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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JeepFan said:
IMHO you should be fine with 1310 shafts. Unless you were going to run 40's or dana 60's you would probably not benefit from the slight increase in strength running 1350's. I've been running JE Reel shafts in my JK for over 40K miles with no issues. Just make sure you get a drive shaft with good spicer u-joints.

The rule of thumb I go by is you beef up one component you move the failure to the next weakest component. I would rather have to replace a U-Joint than say broken gears or blown out T-Case. :crazyeyes:

Good luck with your build and for goodness sake, post some pics! :yup:
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This is a valid point... I could almost buy a complete back-up rear shaft for the price of the upgrade, and then ensure I can drive home. (At least from a drive-shaft failure.)

I know u-Joints are pretty easy trail fixes, but ones in the double-cardan are a bit more involved and suck pretty bad while lying in the mud/dirt. I would actually love to find a hybrid shaft. 1350s in the DC and 1310 at the diff.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
JeepFan said:
The rule of thumb I go by is you beef up one component you move the failure to the next weakest component. I would rather have to replace a U-Joint than say broken gears or blown out T-Case. :crazyeyes:
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And of course there is this to consider. Certainly, I have gone through rear ends and have worked on enough on the trail to tell you it's a legitimate concern. :crazyeyes:
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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wayoflife said:
FWIW, I wrote that install article over 3 years ago and since that time, I have learned enough to change my opinion on a few things. First off and most importantly, it should be known that a 1310 is actually weaker than a factory shaft. The one u-joint you will find on a factory front shaft is actually a 1330. While it will get the job done and address clearance issues, I can say that I have and have see them break on the trail where as I have yet to break or see too many 1350's on the trail. With the cost difference really not being that much more, I personally would recommend a 1350 shaft. At least, that's how I see things now.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I knew the stock shaft was stronger than a 1310, but I didn't realize the joint was a 1330. This fact, and your updated opinion pushes me more toward the 1350s
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
jnabird333 said:
Interesting, I knew the stock shaft was stronger than a 1310, but I didn't realize the joint was a 1330. This fact, and your updated opinion pushes me more toward the 1350s
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jnabird333 said:
Well CRAP :crazyeyes:
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:cheesy: I personally would still get a set of 1350's. I am running them on my Dozer JK now and so long as you make sure to not run a gear ratio higher than a 5.13 in a Dana 44 or a 4.88 in a Dana 30, I think you will be fine. Go higher and you are asking for trouble.
 
jnabird333

jnabird333

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wayoflife said:
:cheesy: I personally would still get a set of 1350's. I am running them on my Dozer JK now and so long as you make sure to not run a gear ratio higher than a 5.13 in a Dana 44 or a 4.88 in a Dana 30, I think you will be fine. Go higher and you are asking for trouble.
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Right-on. IF I go to 37s I would likely choose 4.88s in my stock hybrid 44/30. (44 diff 30 tubes & knuckles). I welded upper C-gussets before I went out on the trail the first. I would want want to truss the front and beef the steering before 37s too...
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
jnabird333 said:
Right-on. IF I go to 37s I would likely choose 4.88s in my stock hybrid 44/30. (44 diff 30 tubes & knuckles). I welded upper C-gussets before I went out on the trail the first. I would want want to truss the front and beef the steering before 37s too...
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Honestly, I wouldn't waste any more money on your Dana 30 than is needed. Heck, I wouldn't even waste any more money on a factory 44/30 that is needed. In fact, I have seen more BENT axle housing caused by trusses being installed than not. Just play with what you got until you break it or can afford to upgrade. That's what I've been doing with all my Jeeps.
 
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